Ok so i have a daily driver 67 FB, just wanted the opinion of the experts

1. I like the inside of 66 doors but not necessarily the inside of 67's. Can I cut and paste? I asked a person who does restorations for a living once and he said no but i still have my doubts.

2. I don't smoke. Can i switch it to a DC outlet?

3. I have 1k to spend and I need to improve Ignition (new distributor, coil?), handling (want/need R&P, currently manual), breaking (still got drums, yuck!) or just keep saving for a TKO tranny (3 speed in there for now). which one should i address first and in what order should I address them?

There's probably more questions but these will do for now

Thanks

 

ok 2 more questions

4. whats the widest tire size without any modification if front and rear.

5. how do you feel about staggered wheels. Mustangs tend to be higher in the nose and I would like for mine to be higher in the back

 

1. I like the inside of 66 doors but not necessarily the inside of 67's. Can I cut and paste? I asked a person who does restorations for a living once and he said no but i still have my doubts.
Not a chance. Different shape panel, different shape door.

2. I don't smoke. Can i switch it to a DC outlet?
It already is a 12V DC outlet.

3. I have 1k to spend and I need to improve Ignition (new distributor, coil?),
Waste of money on your budget, ignition upgrades are the least effective upgrade per $. Get your distributor professionally 'curved' and convert to Pertronix I.

handling (want/need R&P, currently manual),
R&P is another low-$-return item. Get a 4-turn stock box, make sure nothing is worn out.

breaking (still got drums, yuck!)
If you drive it hard, get the stock-type front discs. It'll cost under $600.

or just keep saving for a TKO tranny (3 speed in there for now).
Your 3.03 is as strong as a "toploader". When you upgrade, use a T5.

which one should i address first and in what order should I address them?
Brakes > Steering > Trans.

4. whats the widest tire size without any modification if front and rear.
Mustang Wheel and Tyre Chart

5. how do you feel about staggered wheels. Mustangs tend to be higher in the nose and I would like for mine to be higher in the back
The nose seems high because the 45 year old leaf springs are sagging. Get new ones. You can get GT rear springs, with new U bolts and and eye bolts and shackles for under $200.

 

Ok, convinced, wasn't that hard. anyone who had to stop on a dime with drums will tell you how scary that is.

any links? PM if you cant post them

what do you think of the wilwoods? I've always like them
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/...nt_street.html
also been interested on mustang Steve's Cobra mounting kit. Anyone has done these?

whats the difference between regular and drilled rotors?

 

Ok, convinced, wasn't that hard. anyone who had to stop on a dime with drums will tell you how scary that is.
Actually, one panic stop is no problem with well-maintained drums. Two in a row? That's another story…

any links? PM if you cant post them

what do you think of the wilwoods? I've always like them
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/...nt_street.html
also been interested on mustang Steve's Cobra mounting kit. Anyone has done these?
The stock 11" brakes are easier to get parts for, cost less, and work just fine.

whats the difference between regular and drilled rotors?
Regular brakes don't have holes drilled in them.

 

I have read that drilled rotors are not the best thing for the street, slotted at most. I am going the factory brake route, I have had them in the past on a 67 and they worked great, and I was just an abusive kid at the time!

 

can someone post a picture of the trunk lock? I swear mine just looks wrong

 

Current pad formulations do not 'outgas' as badly as pads in the past did. Translation: there is less need to give any gases given off by hot pad material an easier way out.

In street driving, you won't normally tax the brakes hard enough to generate enough gas to matter. The only exception would be driving in the hills/mountains.

If you open-track your car (road course), you can put so much heat into the rotors that they can and will crack at the holes.

There isn't too much in between.

Slotted rotors seem to resist letting material get embedded into the pad material, meaning that they tend to last longer before becoming grooved/scored.

As a third option, "dimpled" rotors are also available at least for some applications.


Norm

 

question:
most of the conversion kits (Baer, SSBC, etc) come with 4 or 6 piston calipers while the 95SN conversion from MustangSteve or StreetorTrack only have the 2 piston calipers.

Is there a stopping power difference?

Thanks

 

I considered a couple options for disc brakes on my 67fb a few years ago. I settled on the OE Kelsey-Hayes 4-piston disc brakes and I'm very happy with them. They're mostly a bolt-on (factory discs use the same spindles as drums, unlike other conversions which require a spindle change) and they perform very well. I drive my car hard on occasion and I've never been able to get them to show any signs of fade.

Other disc kits will be more flashy, and some may be slightly better for autocross/track use, but only marginally so, and you'd never notice on the street. The OE 4-piston setup is very good on its own.