working on the csrp granada swap for my 67. When I started to install mc, I noticed that the adjustable push rod was too long adjusted in all the way, and none of my brake lines would work with it. When I called csrp I was told my car wasn't like anybody else's. Thanks for the help. I finally figured out that my original pushrod would work on new mc. After spending half a day and two trips at local tube shop We finally got all the lines made up. The whole reason I bought the kit is so I wouldnt have to go search for parts. This is as far as I've got because I havn't recieved my lower control arms yet. I was wondering if I have to use the proportioning valve, or can I use my original metering valve. Sorry to complain on first trip, typical monday bad service

 

I have had good luck with CSRP, they always treated me right. I did the kelsey hayes conversion on my 66 coupe. I had to do some custom bending on the brake lines and make a bracket to mount the proportioning valve to.

 

i put oem k/h 4 piston front disc brakes on 67.
i didn't install proportioning valve because it works excellent w/o.

 

KY 67, Dennis was great to me as well, i like you had to do some manufacturing, I would NOT use adapters (which was offered) so i had to replace and make my own lines, flaring was a chanlange so i had it done.

 

First of all, airing one's dirty laundry on the the forums is not usually fruitful. In my mind it serves no useful purpose other than creating drama. If this is your objective, then OK. If you want help, I am always quite willing to do whatever is possible to get to the source of a technical or application problem. I prefer to operate on facts and I can not help you if your mind is closed or if your objective is merely to rant. The fact is, our adjustable push rod is configured to accommodate all OE standard 65-73 Mustang manual brake applications and the Ford spec master cylinders included with the kits. This fact does not exclude the possibility that the part did not work for your car's configuration. I would gladly receive pictures and dimensional data illustrating the problem and will give the problem the serious attention it deserves.

BTW, Monday is just another day when you work 7 days a week.

As far as your other complaint concerning hard line and hard line fittings. CSRP kits include some fittings, but they do not include definitive hard line plumbing connectivity. This is clearly stated in our written descriptions and when questioned. Some vendors claim to include hard lines, but this usually means a couple of straight lengths of tubing. Different models and years, power vs manual brake, used various tube and fitting sizes and we have not yet tackled the task of creating the various parts necessary to support this need. I do acknowledge that we need to develop these connections as part of CSRP's commitment to make the install as easy as possible. That said, we include many parts not found in most other kits. These include brake hose brackets, correct mounting bolts, slotted rotors, premium pads, an adjustable push rod, steel master cylinder bench bleeding kit, thread lockers and greases. Many other vendor's kits don't even include the proportioning valve, a residual pressure valve, or master cylinder. CSRP is continually working on improving the kit contents. Most CSRP kits will soon include a proportioning valve mounting bracket, residual pressure valves that are internal to the master cylinder, improved anti-rattle clips/shields, improved power brake pedals for 67-70 power brake applications, and braided stainless steel brake hoses.

 

i looked at various brake kits while doing my swap.

it was clear to me that one must bend their own tubes to master cylinder.

i don't like ranting when item is sold per description.

that being said...ranters win...making the world a more stressful place.

i bite my tongue when others don't...they always come out on top

 

Impossible, if you have discs in the front and drums in the rear. The pressure required for discs is more than double that of drums. When braking hard, the fronts should lock slightly before the rears. With no prop valve, the rears will lock before the fronts are even working hard.

 

If your car was drum/drum, you don't have a proportioning valve. That 67 or later divider block contains a shuttle, to activate the brake warning light, but it's not a proportioning valve.

 

impossible...don't think so ...as front disc piston area is increased there is a point where disc stopping force will exceed drum stopping force w/ equally applied hyd pressure.

in your example of double pressure requirement just increase disc piston size to accomplish double stopping force at same hyd press.

some factors to consider are frt disc piston surface area, rear tire traction, rear wheel cyl piston size.

in fast stops before frt dsc conversion i never knew for certain if car would stop straight or jerk to one side. if drums were perfectly adjusted, clean and dry they did ok till brake fade.

after frt dsc conversion w/o prop valve i can do fast stops straight as an arrow every time. much safer than my drm/drm.

 

Not on this planet. Long before you get adequate front brake pressure, the rear wheels will lock, the car will swap ends, and a utility pole will provide stopping power.

Disc front drum rear with no proportioning valve? I don't believe it.