No, that won't work. You need to match up two important specs:

1. Tooth count. Just like axle and trans splines, all the teeth are the same size. To get more teeth, you increase the diameter. Standard teeth count is 157. The 164 tooth wheel is to increase the diameter. That also changes block plate, bellhousing, and clutch parts (hat and disc). It will improve clutch holding power, but usually also increases pedal effort. I don't think you're making enough power to worry about it. And a bigger flywheel/clutch is heavier - not a good thing usually.

2. Balance: early engines have a 28.2oz external balance. Later engines have a 50oz external balance. Custom built racing engines have 0oz external balance. The flywheel, crank, and front balancer all have to match.

See post #12

 

ok, so I found out I can purchase a Brake Rotor Flex-Hone local (sears). What grit would be best?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...=1298955951646

 

how are you gonna keep the material you remove uniform?? you need a perfectly flat surface for the clutch to work...

 

discs trade off is heat/abuse resistance vs. smooth release.

i prefer oem type disc for experienced smart drivers and smooth starts.

i prefer racing type for disc for clutch riders and drag racers.

i have never ventured to clean flywheel DIY.

i've had several flywheels turned.

usually problem is heat checking that is so deep it can't all be turned out.

can still use a checked flywheel w/ decent performance for years; ask the 66 GMC truck. Used to pull stuck semi trucks up steep iced hill.

if lathe operator takes material off too fast then flywheel will be damaged; other words ...avoid monday morning turning.

flywheel and pp does not look bad in photo; i don't see deep damage.

if flywheel passes fingernail/razor blade test i wouldn't turn it. remove any burs. the best way to clean up the mild surface scratches may be to install new disc and drive it.

don't forget to verify throw our bearing geometry and proper adjustment.

 

I was wondering how this could even happen to the fw to begin with? How can I avoid this in the future

 

thought your pilot bearing failed.

how much slop in your pilot bearing/bushing?

 

I use a fine 120grit hone. It's slower, but you get a slightly better surface, and less chance of mistakes

You're cleaning and honing the surface, not milling it. Just like a brake rotor.

 

so my disc should be arriving tomorrow. what's the best way to clean all the dust/ grime of my flywhell its collected these weeks?

 

Brake parts cleaner works really well, and no residue.