Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

351 windsor build thread

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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 12:01 PM
  #61  
woody999's Avatar
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there that should work......
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 11:01 PM
  #62  
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musnicki
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Post some pictures!

I may have missed it but what kind of lifters are you putting into it? I have a 302 roller block and put in a cam with flat tappets. Only because I had bought the Performer RPM kit for my 289 but blew out the number 1 piston (through the wall after a valve dropped) and the kit came with a flat tappet cam so I used that kit in a 94 cobra block that I picked up for a cheap price. I think that those flat tappets hitting the cam help with the aggressive sound, which was one of the criterea in your build. Although at the price of torque and wear and tear.

I, too, am also considering putting in a 351w block (stroked) or a 428...still keeping my options open.

I got a small headache reading through this thread.
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 10:57 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by musnicki
Post some pictures!

I may have missed it but what kind of lifters are you putting into it? I have a 302 roller block and put in a cam with flat tappets. Only because I had bought the Performer RPM kit for my 289 but blew out the number 1 piston (through the wall after a valve dropped) and the kit came with a flat tappet cam so I used that kit in a 94 cobra block that I picked up for a cheap price. I think that those flat tappets hitting the cam help with the aggressive sound, which was one of the criterea in your build. Although at the price of torque and wear and tear.
Why do you think there is a difference in sound hyd vs flat tappet? My understanding is that sound, is going to come from the cam profile/timing. You'll be able to run a more aggressive profile with rollers. If you hear lifters banging against the cam you have a problem.
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by woody99
ok so i just bought a 351 windsor out of a 92 ford van. this will be going into my 65 mustang. but to begin im tearing down the motor and possibly rebuilding it. no im not staying fuel injected im doing a carb conversion.

Day 1- Put the engine in my shop and started to clean it up and took off the engine wiring.
Day 2- took intake manifold off along with some hoses and fuel injection parts. put it on an engine stand so i could clean up all the oil. im in class now so wont get to work on it again until 2.. =(
Pictures!!!!
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #65  
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musnicki
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Originally Posted by mr_velocity
Why do you think there is a difference in sound hyd vs flat tappet? My understanding is that sound, is going to come from the cam profile/timing. You'll be able to run a more aggressive profile with rollers. If you hear lifters banging against the cam you have a problem.
Maybe you're right. I always thought that they made the car sound like car sound if that makes sense.
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:21 PM
  #66  
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looks like there is some confusion with terminology.

flat tappet vs roller and hydraulic versus solid.

a hydraulic cam can be made for use with flat tappet lifters or roller lifters. likewise for a solid cam.
Old Nov 24, 2011 | 12:14 AM
  #67  
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eZ
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If only this kid had an idea what kind of advice he is not paying attention too...douche bag
Old Nov 29, 2011 | 09:38 AM
  #68  
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so what type of lifters would you all suggest for my build? i like sound but i also want it to last... and im port and polishing my heads and i was wondering if its really worth it to port them?
Old Nov 29, 2011 | 12:38 PM
  #69  
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You can't order an engine kit until the block and crank are machined. That will determine your piston/ring size and your crank/rod bearings.

Your enthusiasm is making this much harder than it is. There is a recommended order of doing things. This makes the process less costly and time consuming.

FYI, new crank doesn't mean ****. It still has to be measured and confirmed round. Many new cranks are oblong and need additional work.

Why don't you wait to receive advice from your machine shop teacher? Don't buy a thing until then.

Last edited by OCHOHILL; Nov 29, 2011 at 12:47 PM.
Old Nov 29, 2011 | 04:32 PM
  #70  
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If it was originally a roller motor, use roller cam/lifter combo. If not, you can convert but that gets pricey.

When you order your cam, use the grinders recommendation for lifters.

Finally, either listen to your shop teacher, or the guys here because you are making this much harder than it needs to be. Like said above, wait until the machining is complete and order based off the finished dimensions.



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