Aluminum Radiator
05-07-2011, 11:40 AM
#12
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
Rat Fink, almost nobody even makes 4 row copper/brass radiators anymore because they're really not that efficient. You may get 10% improved cooling over a 3 row, maybe, and you're using a lot more material.
Good 2 row aluminum radiators use 1" wide tubes (even better ones use 1-1/4" tubes). While copper has better heat transfer properties, it's not as strong as aluminum, meaning that the cooling tubes are limited to 3/8". So while a 3 row copper has 1-1/8" surface area and a 4-row copper has 1-1/2" surface area, a 2 row aluminum has 2" of surface area. In addition to that, the 2 row aluminum radiator has much less air restriction than a 4 row copper, which transfers a lot of the heat from the first three rows to the fourth row.
Good 2 row aluminum radiators use 1" wide tubes (even better ones use 1-1/4" tubes). While copper has better heat transfer properties, it's not as strong as aluminum, meaning that the cooling tubes are limited to 3/8". So while a 3 row copper has 1-1/8" surface area and a 4-row copper has 1-1/2" surface area, a 2 row aluminum has 2" of surface area. In addition to that, the 2 row aluminum radiator has much less air restriction than a 4 row copper, which transfers a lot of the heat from the first three rows to the fourth row.
05-07-2011, 11:46 AM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: MO
Posts: 439
I've posted it before (ad nauseum) but I have a Taurus fan with my Griffin 2-row aluminum radiator and in 90 deg heat, engine full hot, I can put my hand on the right side and the air blowing off the fan is hot but as I move it to the left, the air gets coolers and is almost blowing cold at the left edge. Now that is cooling efficiency. It will be more than enough for a 347.
05-07-2011, 03:22 PM
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 30
Aluminum Radiator
Here's what I used: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-26202-X/
I bought Summit's generic radiator mounts (cradles) and cut out the radiator support to get more surface area. Cools great (with Taurus fan). Normally runs 180-190 deg. Got to 200 once or twice in crawling traffic in 95 deg weather with A/C on.
You didn't say whether you have a manual or auto. This radiator is for manual transmissions.
I bought Summit's generic radiator mounts (cradles) and cut out the radiator support to get more surface area. Cools great (with Taurus fan). Normally runs 180-190 deg. Got to 200 once or twice in crawling traffic in 95 deg weather with A/C on.
You didn't say whether you have a manual or auto. This radiator is for manual transmissions.
05-07-2011, 06:35 PM
#17
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
The American Eagle and Engineered Cooling Products units are the best of the ebay lot, offering 2-row aluminum units with 1" tubes. They're very similar to the Summit-branded Northern units.
This is by far the better option, when compared with a Champion.
Last edited by Starfury; 05-07-2011 at 06:51 PM.
05-08-2011, 06:29 AM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: texas
Posts: 254
Yes. I just cut the radiator frame out and put in a bigger radiator, But that was awhile ago, I wouldn't recommend doing that to a 65-66 now. Now they make 2-3 and 4 row aluminum radiators for the 65-66 so no cutting is necessary. The toughest cooling issue I've had was cooling a 460 I put in a Mustang ll.
What ever cooling system you end up with , make sure you tie the 2 front fenders together, up as high as you can and as forward as you can.
What ever cooling system you end up with , make sure you tie the 2 front fenders together, up as high as you can and as forward as you can.
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