Ok I can not seem to figure out what this carb bolt does. It is the one attached to the rusted part where the linkage is connected and the bolt itself is rusted. When it is tightened it pushes a separate piece away. The only outcome I can tell is that it deaccelerates slower but I assume this could be compensated for by getting a strong spring.
I need to move that piece to get my kickdown linkage to be able to reach without altering how much gas goes into the carb. It is the only way I can see to do it.
Any suggestions? I'd rather not mess with it but I need it on so I can take it to a professional for an estimate on a paint job.

*EDIT*
In order to more accurately solve this problem I took new pictures. I also went out and bought a slightly stronger spring. This took care of the acceleration problem where it would continue giving gas even after you let go of the pedal. Test drove it around. Was doing fine but I notice a random shifting instead of set shifting in the automatic transmission. Instead of shifting to 2nd at say 15-20 mph it would randomly shift at 20-30ish sometimes 35. That doesn't seem right and it is a real hesitant shift as well. Unless someone can give a suitable answer to help solve this shifting I will just wait till Monday when I can go get it looked at, at least the kickdown is connected now though.

 

what carb is this? an 1100 or 2200?

 

Honestly I do not know, it is a Motorcraft. I have heard it is a little small for my engine but it works fine and at the moment I do not have the money for a new one so I am working with it. Car runs fine would just like the kickdown attached properly.

 

It looks like it adjusts the butterflies on the bottom of the carb or 'air bleed' as I'd call it. The butterflys need to be open a little but there is a measured adjustment they should be opened I remember doing this adj. per the instructions when I rebuilt my 2bbl before switching to a 4bbl. I may still have my instructions at home or it's in my shop manual. I lent the 2bbl to a friend otherwise I could flip it over and see what the screw does.

If someone has one laying around they could flip it and turn the screw while watching the butterflies. I can see some of your setup is not original by the throttle cable so the carb. may not be either. I don't see a clamp on the fuel hose going to the carb. filter, could start a leak.
Jon

 

*edit* see first post

Thanks Jon. This picture was a long time ago when I was installing everything after painting the engine. Everything is now hooked up correctly. No leaks. Runs fine I will check the butterflies but noticed nothing when I was messing around with it except for a slower deacceleration when given gas, meaning after I lift off the pedal it slowly declines instead of rapidly. I believe it is due to the other spring (not in photo) not having enough pull towards the front of the engine.

 

i have never seen a carb like this, looks kinda like a 2100 but the rusted out linkage and location of springs dont fit. there shouldve been a metal tag on one of the bolts on the carb with the ID number, this would help immensely in solving the mystery of the bolt.

 

It's a 2150. Not original or correct for your 1970. The lever is meant to connect the trans kickdown rod without making it react to every throttle movement. Get a correct 2100 carb before spending any time on this.

 

depends on what engine he has in it right? what engine you got under the hood bro?

 

No such thing as a "Motorcraft" carburetor in 1970, Ford started using that name in 1972 when they sold "Autolite".

His 1970 302/auto trans engine should have a D0AF-D 1.08 (287 cfm) Autolite 2100 carburetor.

 

Finally found a pic of 2+2GT



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