Yes, the clutch pedal is even with the brake pedal. It is releasing probably a 1/2 inch from the floor.

 

does the pedal have a nice firm feel to it the whole travel or is the first half squishy?

 

Yes, the first half feels like there is no pressure at all.

 

It sounds like you still have air in the system.

If you are sure that the rod from the pedal to the master cylinder is long enough (as in its resting on the master cylinder with the pedal in the normal resting position and isnt too short so that its touching nothing)

What I would do is to remove the slave cylinder from the trans but leave the hydraulic line connected point the push rod side down so that the bleed nipple is on the top side (like it normally should be) and at the very highest point. So you would point the SC down at about 45 to 70 degrees so any air floats to the top right under the bleed nipple. Have some one apply full clutch and crack the nipple then close the nipple and release the clutch. make sure the fluid in the tank stays full and do this about 10x.

-Gun

 

Not sure what you mean by the rod between the pedal and MC. I ordered the whole kit from Daze. I will try bleeding the system again to see what happens.

 

Well there are two hydraulic cylinders right? One on the transmission that connect to that black bracket that Daze made AND one that bolts to the firewall Right? The cylinder that bolts to the firewall is the MC (master cylinder) when you press the clutch pedal something MUST move that MC piston right? On my setup there is a rod that bolts to the clutch pedal and goes into the MC when I press the clutch that rod pushes the MC piston. Is this how yours is setup????

I was saying make sure that rod is touching the MC piston with the clutch fully out. If its not half your travel is getting burned up taking out play and it wont be able to run the MC through its full range and wont fully disengage your clutch.

 

Yes, mine is setup the same way, just didnt quite understand what you were trying to say, all makes sense now. If I have the clutch pedal set higher where it can't hit the floor when pushed in, could this damage the MC at all if I was doing some hard shifts pushing the clutch in hard.

 

No no...You want it set up so it WILL NOT hit the floor. The MC is built to stop on its own this will NOT damage it. Having the clutch pedal stop on the carpet cheats you out of travel there is bearly enough so you need all of the travel possible.

There's no need to smash the tar out of the clutch pedal but if all the air is bled from the system and you're not the Hulk then the MC is designed to work without additional stops like the floor. Having air in the system may make it easier to really slam in the clutch this could be tough on the MC so make sure there is good resistance through the entire travel of the pedal none of this half easy then half stiff pedal feel. Resistance should be even though the entire range of pedal travel.

-Gun

 

Bleeding Instructions

Fill the master cylinder reservoir 3/4 full with clean, fresh brake fluid.
Push and hold the pedal down.
Open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, until fluid is released.
Close the bleeder valve and release pedal.
Wait three to five seconds and repeat.

DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL
Pumping will only aerate the fluid and prevent complete bleeding. When finished be sure to run master cylinder only 3/4 full of fluid.

 

I bled the system again, clutch seems to travel a lot nicer now. It is still releasing at the bottom of travel still. It pushed in really nice, but the last 1\4" seems to need more effort to push in. Is this normal or is there still air in the system? Thanks