I am just finishing my hydraulic clutch upgrade on my t5 and was wondering if I should have any pre-load on my 10" organic clutch? Also, is DOT 3 brake fluid good. I got my kit from Daze (Day Scovel). Thanks.

 

I think the proper setup is to push the clutch fork and throwout bearing against the diaphragm as if it were going to disengage the clutch. Push it by hand and apply only enough pressure to take out the play (1 lb or less) then adjust so that the slave cylinder setup simply holds the clutch fork where you were holding it make sure it doesn't add extra pressure. Its probably okay if there is a slight bit of play less than 1/32"

Thats how I set mine up...its been working..

-Gun

 

as for the fluid, is DOT 3 good then?

 

Yes if I recall correctly Dot 3 is the stuff!

 

Ok, I got everything setup, what is the best way to bleed the system. Can I have the cylinder hooked up to the clutch fork when bleeding. Thanks.

 

Yeah You should be fine...bleed as normal.

If you still suspect air then remove the SC and point it push rod down so the bleed nipple is at the top absolute highest point and bleed again.

-Gun

 

on the cylinder for the clutch fork, does it matter if the hydraulic hose is on top or bottom? Thanks.

 

Thats the salve cylinder...Mount it so the bleed nipple is on the top this is a requirement.

-Gun

 

Alright, got everything in and bled. I have the clutch fork pretty tight on the throwout bearing and the clutch is still releasing pretty close to the floor. Should I just tighten the fork even more, to have it engage higher up in the travel of the clutch pedal.

 

negative you'll destroy that throwout bearing.

Its already too tight...you'll destroy the throwout bearing if you dont reduce the pressure on the preload.

Again. Just hold the fork so it just touches the clutch fingers all you are trying to to is get zero play and nearly zero pressure. If you slam the fork against the clutch and then add some more preload pressure to its going to be an "I told you so" story.

Check to make sure the clutch pedal is pushing the master cylinder through its full travel. The clutch pedal should make a nice crisp stop at the end of the travel it should not touch the floor.

The new clutch will take some time to run in. During the run in period it may not fully disengage and will probably bite sooner as the pedal comes off the floor.

How far does your pedal come off the floor before the car just begins to move?

Is your clutch pedal the same level as your brake pedal?