Front Suspension?
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 334
From: Wisconsin
Front Suspension?
I just replaced my front shocks but realized that the upper control arms, lower control arms, sway bar, struts, coil springs should also all be replaced. My plans are in October to start taking things apart. I know i need to rent or buy a coil compressor to remove my coil springs. Any other tips that you guys can supply would be great as I have never replace this stuff before. 
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 69
From: Texas
I was in your spot a month ago, spring compressor can be rented from any autoparts store... new springs are the way to go, dont cut them. I just got some 620's that dropped it an inch. Just be patience and keep working on it. use the internet to search for suspension kits, and also how to get the parts on there.
6th Gear Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,232
From: PA
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 678
From: Smyrna, TN
You might also read here first for other things you may want to do while in there:
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101
Oh and rent a puller set like this to get the ball joints, tie rods, etc. to pop loose easier, remember a pickle fork is for chebbies:
Biggest tip I can give is try to use quality parts, except for the UCA everything else should be available in Moog or McQuay Norris.
Jon
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101
Oh and rent a puller set like this to get the ball joints, tie rods, etc. to pop loose easier, remember a pickle fork is for chebbies:
Biggest tip I can give is try to use quality parts, except for the UCA everything else should be available in Moog or McQuay Norris.
Jon
Last edited by Jonk67; Aug 23, 2011 at 07:19 PM.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 710
From: Indianapolis
Best advice I can give is to avoid the ultra cheap "kits" and at the very least get quality Moog components from your local auto parts store.
I purchased some Opentracker blueprinted stock uppers with welded shafts, it seems the stock UCA's are often set-up incorrectly right out of the box and John adjusts them as needed. On the UCA the shaft can move over time so John at opentracker welds a tab to stop the nuts from moving. He also offers them with full roller bearings instead of bushings, I did not want to spend that much.
I also like the roller spring perches from OTR, I got my springs & sway from John as well.
My lower arm is just a Moog from the store.
I did splurge on some Koni shocks because Koni had a sale!
Car goes gooder now!
And +1 on the Arning Drop!
I purchased some Opentracker blueprinted stock uppers with welded shafts, it seems the stock UCA's are often set-up incorrectly right out of the box and John adjusts them as needed. On the UCA the shaft can move over time so John at opentracker welds a tab to stop the nuts from moving. He also offers them with full roller bearings instead of bushings, I did not want to spend that much.
I also like the roller spring perches from OTR, I got my springs & sway from John as well.
My lower arm is just a Moog from the store.
I did splurge on some Koni shocks because Koni had a sale!
Car goes gooder now!
And +1 on the Arning Drop!
5th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,106
From:
Roler spring perches and the Shelby drop are the two essientials. Be careful with the removal of the coil springs, they can give you a headache. Also, note the Shelby drop will lower the front end in itself and the car will need to settle in for about a month before making any final adjustments.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 475
From: Nebraska
I wouldnt call the shelby drop and roller perches essential. If it fits with your goals with your car then got for it. But if you just want a sunday cruiser you will be just fine with stock parts.
If you can rent the disk type of spring compressor then get this one. The hook kind will do the job but the disk kind is easier to use.
Dont use polyurethane for the bushings, onlyuse rubber. The poly stuff is too stiff and wont flex the way the rubber will and you can get broken strut rods or end links. If the rubber bushings cant flex the way ford planned then it will be a metal part that will flex instead.
The taper studs that ford used on the ball joints and tie rods need beat out not pickle forks. I know that sounds bad but it is the truth. Pickle forks are for GMs. What you do on ford joints is first loosen the nut a few turns but leave it on the threads. Next use a long pry bar to apply pressure in the direction that the joint needs to go to remove it(up for the lower ball joint, down for the lower joint, etc) And then take a 3lb sledge and hit the side of the joint until it pops loose. The taper joints need the vibration from hitting to pop loose. If they dont come out then you need to beat them harder or a bigger hammer.
The Camber for your alinement is done with shims between the upper control arm and the shock towers. Be careful when you take your upper control arm off that you keep track of what shims go where and you can get them installed again where they were. You will still need an alinement but this will have you close to right when you go back together.
only finger tighten the lower contorl arm bolt and nut(at the frame rail) when you first install them on jack stands. Wrench tighten them when you lower the car onto the ground. If you wrench tighten them on the jack stands those bolts can hold the entire suspension up a few inches. Also dont panic if after first installing everything the car looks high in the front a inch or so. The suspension will settle lower for a month or so.
If you can rent the disk type of spring compressor then get this one. The hook kind will do the job but the disk kind is easier to use.
Dont use polyurethane for the bushings, onlyuse rubber. The poly stuff is too stiff and wont flex the way the rubber will and you can get broken strut rods or end links. If the rubber bushings cant flex the way ford planned then it will be a metal part that will flex instead.
The taper studs that ford used on the ball joints and tie rods need beat out not pickle forks. I know that sounds bad but it is the truth. Pickle forks are for GMs. What you do on ford joints is first loosen the nut a few turns but leave it on the threads. Next use a long pry bar to apply pressure in the direction that the joint needs to go to remove it(up for the lower ball joint, down for the lower joint, etc) And then take a 3lb sledge and hit the side of the joint until it pops loose. The taper joints need the vibration from hitting to pop loose. If they dont come out then you need to beat them harder or a bigger hammer.
The Camber for your alinement is done with shims between the upper control arm and the shock towers. Be careful when you take your upper control arm off that you keep track of what shims go where and you can get them installed again where they were. You will still need an alinement but this will have you close to right when you go back together.
only finger tighten the lower contorl arm bolt and nut(at the frame rail) when you first install them on jack stands. Wrench tighten them when you lower the car onto the ground. If you wrench tighten them on the jack stands those bolts can hold the entire suspension up a few inches. Also dont panic if after first installing everything the car looks high in the front a inch or so. The suspension will settle lower for a month or so.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 475
From: Nebraska
They are not essential. They should be done only if they fit with his goals with his car. If he plans on getting it on a track then cool do them. If he plans on driving to the saturday night cruise at the local drive in then they are not needed. His car and his goals but they are not essential.