groho

Hope to have pic's and results of the Rustbullet coating I'm putting on this weekend. Removed my interior and much of the old seam sealer. I've used POR15 before and wasn't at all happy with the prep, or the overlay ability. Even after roughing up the finished coating, I was unable to get a good overlay. This Rustbullet looks much easier to apply and less of an effort to topcoat. By the way, Rustbullet service was amazing! Ordered online and had it at my door in 2 days. They answered all my questions promptly. My biggest question being the application of new seam sealer. The steps are....prep first, then Rustbullet, then seam sealer, then second coat of Rustbullet. Rough up the first coat of Rustbullet with 100 grit before appying the second coat if you wait longer than 72 hours.

chockostang

I'm beginning to think, for the first restorer, the person questioning the way to restore a car, is to buy 5 gallons of POR, coat everything.

Why not replace the rusted parts, repair to original, fix as they should be, rather than coat with this stuff to hide?

Dan @ Chockostang

Jonk67

I used the POR15 on my inner firewall, it just had minor surface rust here and there, no rust through so no reason to cut it out and weld in repop. The POR went on fine with a foam brush and gave a rock hard smooth finish. I then covered with damplifier. I plan to do the roof and rest of the floor with it.

I used rustbullet ~8yrs. ago on a metal sunroof and it just rusted again so i wasn't real impressed with it, maybe I didn't prep properly? can't remember.

I also tried the Eastwood rust encapsulator but it doesn't go on near as smooth as POR, shows brush strokes and dries like flat primer. I'm using it on areas that won't be seen as I'm not happy with the rough finish. I won't be ordering anymore once I finish off the quart I've got.
Jon

groho

I had some rust in the rear floor pan from a window leak the prev owner didn't address. it wasn't bad enough to replace an entire pan, but did require some attention to insure it was neutralized. The Rustbullet was hands down easier to apply over the POR15, and less prep time. I had the entire floor prepd, cleaned, painted in an afternoon. I also noticed better adhesion properties with the RustBullet. Let's see how it looks in the morning. As you said, the POR15 has a smooth finish and hard as rock once it cures. Even with preping and roughing up a cured POR15 finish, I couldn't get a decent top coat on it. The Rustbullet looks much more cooperative at this point.

groho

and Chockostang, I did replace panels, aprons, trunk, qrtr, etc, as should be done. Replacing a floor pan would have been overkill in this situation, because my pans were better than expected and structurally sound.

mr_velocity

The best way to put down POR is to not let it dry between coats. You don't want to be sanding it. If you prep correctly and topcoat while its still tacky you'll be hard pressed to find a tougher barrier to rust. It will spray and lay out real nice.

Jonk67

Ok, so the rustbullet has a rougher, textured surface when cured? That's good to know.
On my firewall I wanted a fairly smooth surface as I was sticking the damplifier to it and it stuck better to a uniform surface vs. rough like the Eastwood encapsulator cured to.
I may consider the rustbullet in some areas where I will be painting over if that's the case. The majority of my areas will be covered with damplifier though.

Here's the eastwood on my battery box, you can see that I did chip it which would not have happened with the POR and you can see the 'waves' in it on the bottom surface of the tray. It did not look any better when painted over.


Jon

groho

As Jonk indicated, the Rustbullet finish is rougher, and matches whatever applicator you used; bush, roller, spray, etc. I started with a brush, and put the second coat on with a 3" roller for a more even finish. The POR15 is more fluid, and finishes smooth as glass. Topcoating the Rustbullet is going to be much easier than the POR15 experience. I'm glad I decided to try both products. Though they share a similar purpose, the finished surface is completely different. If you plan to topcoat with primer, paint or spray-on such as Lizardskin, I'd suggest Rustbullet. If you're happy with the finished product and no topcoat, go with the POR15....JMO.

chockostang

To clean a good panel, then coat with this stuff is a great thing to preserve, and keep nice.

To have a nearly rusted out panel, Coat with gallons of POR to "Restore" in not the way to go.

I biggest pet peeve is we get the steering boxes/Centerlinks/Controls in with about a Quarter inch of Por over the rust---Dam Folks clean up the parts to bare metal, then paint to stop rust.

Good work groho

Dan @ Chockostang

JMD

My favorite is partial floorpans laid over rusted out hulks held in with 3 bird**** spotwelds....