typo, it was 1.5". I can take a few pics tomorrow. I think the ss line was 36"s. I still have the intial reservoir i used. I removed it because it was a little bulky. I went with one from a harley because it looks much better and was smaller.

 

Hey guys what size of flywheel will I need? Do I use an early 157tooth or a later 50 oz one?

 

So I found out which flywheel I needed, but now I am thinking about what it takes to change from an auto to a manual. I have a 69 pedal setup from a donor and I am going to keep my existing brake pedal, just trim it to fit, but what will I need in terms of bushings? I looked into the mustangsteve kit for doing a ball bearing replacement but I don't think that I will need it since my car was an auto. Thoughts anyone?

 

I run the mustang steve ballbearing kit I really like it. But I have a 66 so I have no idea about any of the detail for the clutch setup on a 70.

 

Thanks Gun Jam for the input, but like I said, I wonder if I will even need to go that route since the car was an auto and that hole didn't see a great deal of movement. I know that the shaft that the break pedal rides on goes through there but I don't see it getting a great deal of wear.

 

I see better now what you are asking...well if you use the CNC cylinders that I think I saw posted here...I think they are the same system I use and its nothing like a modern clutch where it feels like it connected to nothing. I run the king cobra clutch which is suppose to reduce pedal effort a bit I hear and that clutch pedal is stiff. It takes significant force to fully depress the pedal it is almost equal in effort to a cable setup. I would bet its going to be the stiffest clutch pedal you've ever mashed to the floor.

That said its nothing to worry about after a week you dont even notice it BUT I do highly recommend the bearing support because of this.