thanks for all your input guys! Thinking of the Optima but do like the looks of the Autolite

my theory is that the guy may have hooked the battery up wrong (either with the cables or with the jumper cables) Im not done chasing wires yet but if this were the case is there any other parts of the ignition/entire electrical system I should be worried about?

 

There is no battery that will not gradually die in storage. What you need a "Battery Tender™" or similar device, meant to preserve a battery in storage. I have a repro battery over ten years old that I put one of these on when it was three years old, and it still works perfectly.

 

If you disconnect the battery, I've seen them start the car after a year of storage, no battery tender needed.
It's the electrical parasites that discharge the battery. The radio is ALWAYS
ON weather you turn it off by switch or not. It has to be on to remember the pre-sets. CD changer is probably always on too. A clock is always on. These are enough to discharge the batt in a few months.
The newer cars have computers that are always on to remember your optimum drivability for air/fuel ratios and for OBD2 codes.

 

As said in some of the post, in simple terms, if you don't exercise the battery there is a film that will form over the plates and in a short time kill the plate. A battery tender type device will give it a work out and keep it strong. This is one situation that the good ole pharse has never been more true, if you don't use it, you will loose it. Oh, a good way to tell if its a good battery is to pick it up. Calcium hybrids will be normally be lighter and never come close to standing up to the good ole lead acid that's been around for decades and proven over and over (can you say Interstate). The "Optima" gel cells seem to have changed for the worst also. Even before I was never too thrilled by one and have had to replace it ever single year. Unless you have the urge to mount it sideways or upside down, you can buy two good batterys for the price of one Optima.

 

Maybe so, but it's contrary to my experience, at least with a Sears battery.
I just replaced an 8 year old Diehard Silver. It was "abused" repeatedly with up to 1 year storage periods. (Where I store the van*, it's not possible to use a tender). It still was holding a charge, but I replaced it because it was 8 years old and from my experience, batterys don't last past the warranty period even if you use the car daily.

*it's an old van,,, I wouldn't think of storing a vintage Mustang outside for a year!

 

Not surprised at all, at one time they were old school lead acid type. I'm not sure who's making their's now.

 

Having worked at 3 places that sold automotive batteries I have noticed a few things.

1. Like Falcopilot said, some of it is how you take care of it(the battery and electrical system)
2. Some batteries are junk right off the shelf, lasting less then 6 months. Seen this happen with lots of different brands/grades of battery. Use their warranty, most give free full replacement if less then a year old. Chances are the next one you get of the same brand will perform better. Defective ones are few and far between of the better known brands.
3. Lots of batteries made here in the US come from Johnson Controls but have several different brand names attached to them.

And it was stated also, like oil, tires, waxes and lots of other things, there is not going to be any unaimous agreement

 

Just pick'em up, that's all you gotta do.

 

Here on the west coast, Johnson Controls, Inc. makes batteries for almost everyone. Sears, Napa, O'Reilly's, Autozone, Interstate (yes, JCI owns interstate), and others. They're not all made to the same specs, but all are lead-acid type to my knowledge. They're also generally heavier than the equivalent Exide brand batteries, and I've noticed less comebacks with the JCI batteries vs Exide.

 

For street cars I generally use Interstate or Exide and they last for years. I do use the Optima's in the racecars because of the severe use, but its overkill in a street car.