MonsterBilly

can I use a standard 3/4" rear sway bar for a 66 with my 8.8 inch rear end? I put the rear end in so if i have to weld a mount or two im good with that.

MonsterBilly

waiting? anyone?

1slow67

I would think you can, from what I see the brackets bolt in somewhere around the leaf springs.

67 evil eleanor

Sometimes a rear bar can hurt more than help provided the front is adequate.

groho

Have you stripped your 8.8 rear of the spring perches and link brackets? The 3/4" bar rides above the rear end and the end links mount to the front side of the subframe. That stock hardware on the rear may need to be removed to clear all the components. Second, I noticed you have rear disc brakes. You may have a clearance issue with the calipers and the sway bar. I was going to suggest looking at a Stam-bar, which is adjustable, until I noticed the rear discs. I've read multiple posts that reflect the Stam-bar and disc brake have interference issues when the rear is compressed.

groho

IMO, a swaybar is a swaybar, as long as you have lateral and horizontal clearance for the bar to function. The question comes down to selecting the proper size bar, too thick and you get snappy oversteer, too small you get nothing. I think the 3/4" rear bar is too aggressive for a 65-66 mustang, that's why the 5/8" Stam-bar appeals to me. Plus the 3/4" bar has set end links, where the Stam-bar is adjustable.

Boxwrenchesareslow

you drive the car real hard in the corners?? 3/4 is pretty big, I wouldn't. rear bar is nice for body roll but can actually make the car handle worse/oversteer much easier. Run a pan-hard bar instead would be my rec.

MonsterBilly

yes i do drive it pretty hard in the corners, However I am also a rookie. Im just trying to get the best driving expierience i can get within my financial means.

Boxwrenchesareslow

ok, yeah, i personally would not. If you dont drive it real hard its kinda nice for keeping body roll down but at a certain point it just makes your car handle worse in the turns

67 evil eleanor

I think also there is some confusion about how a purpose build vintage track car handles as compared to it's street driven version. Trust me, the track cars will beat the crap out of you, they are not comfortable by any means and certainly not on a public road. IMO the best and most simple mod that can be done to bring these old suspensions up to par is simply the Shelby drop, roller spring perches, spring replacment, an upgrade to the front sway bar and a proper alignment. Course everyone has to decide what level is right for them, how tough their rump is and what their wallet can withstand. I learned years ago just because its on the market and "they" suggest that "it will", don't take to heart. Maybe "it will" help and maybe "it won't". All setups differ, and all require different parts. Maybe Norm will chime in, not only does he "really" know suspensions, he also has real time track experience.