I have purchased these and will install while replacing the floor pans.

Should I install these before I install the floor pan?
Should I weld the floor pan to the connector where it touches?

I saw on the video of his that he bolted it down. I also saw he had gaps up to 3/4inch near the front rail.


Thoughts on why I shouldn't weld the floor pan if it touches in an area?

 

If I had the one piece floor out of the car I would extend the SFC's up to the front frame rail, then you have something worth doing.
You will see that once your floor is out that the new connectors are nice and strong, but the front frame extensions on the car are very thin sheet metal.

It's amazing to me that people expect them to extend the SFC to the front frame and maintain the strength of the heavier SFC. Those floor pan supports will be the weak link.

But, someone will be along shortly to tell me that I am wrong.

 

That is a good question and thought. Although those are heavy duty, if I don't reinforce the front rails then I should just have fabricated ones from the same gauge steel (well maybe not worth the time).

But, they are better than no connectors. If I bought all the frame/rails I would have cut them open and welded in proper metal that was matched. In the end, your right, I only need to match the existing strength of the front rail/pan supports as they only go in 6". That 6" is a very weak point. I would have to re route the e-brake though.


So, this build, as it's too far along and to late in the year now, I will just install as is.

Good thought for next time though. Plus, I am only std. driving and with nothing over 330hp.

 

I have a roller bearing right now. I heard that with winter storage and the grease will push out over time that these will rust up and then squeal.

I hear that the better option is a brass one which will kind do self cleaning of that rust each time.


So, solid bushing or bearing? I also hear that some can feel the bearing in the pedal

 

I used TinMan and welded a piece of 1/8" plate steel along the outer edge of the front floor support. This is welded to the floor pan along its length. It's welded to the front torque box. I also welded 1" angle steel from the 1/8" plate to the rocker panel.

In addition, I have a Heidts front end with boxing plates around the front subframe. Though you can't see it here, I welded a 3/16" steel plate along the outside of the front subframe to connect the torque box to the the Heidts boxing plates (there was about a 6" gap). It's all very strong and stiff.

 

I noticed you welded the tinmans to the bottom of the front rail where in his video he wants it on the top against the floor pan.

Thoughts on this?

Also, I see you added some angle iron from the rail to the side 90 degrees from the rail, why is this?

 

In the youtube video on the TinMan site, and in these instructions (http://web.mac.com/jbauder/tinmancompressed.pdf) they have them welded to the bottom of the floor supports (away from the floor pan) at the front, like I did them. There were no instructions with the SFCs. I just followed pictures other people posted (including pics on the TinMan website, but it's been 4 or 5 years ago so my memory is fuzzy). I also welded the 1/8" plates to the bottom of the floor supports (but ground them smooth so you can't see the welds) and the top (against the floor), and welded them to the SFCs and the torque boxes. That 1/8" plate ties everything together - connecting the SFCs to the floor, floor supports, and torque boxes.

I added the angle steel to the rocker panel for extra rigidity at the sides. Probably not necessary, but every little bit of bracing helps (and it was not much extra weight) and everything else is overbuilt on this car!

It definitely stiffened up the car. I have over 465 HP/450 torque at the wheels, with drag radials, and nothing has shifted, cracked, or moved (contrary to the horror stories and predictions from the 'experts' about the shortcomings of the M2 front suspensions, and over 17K miles too).