Inner Shock Towers
#1
Inner Shock Towers
I have been lurking on this site and posted a few times over the past year. I recently received my Aunt's mustang that she bought new in 1969 and have been busy striping it down. I sent these pictures to the body shop I planned on using and received a little sticker shock.
In an effort to help reduce some of the cost, I am considering replacing the inner shock towers myself. I wanted to share some pics and get everyone's thoughts before I proceed. I am sure I will have follow up questions on this forum.
Both sides are similar.
In an effort to help reduce some of the cost, I am considering replacing the inner shock towers myself. I wanted to share some pics and get everyone's thoughts before I proceed. I am sure I will have follow up questions on this forum.
Both sides are similar.
#2
I done some research on this very thing. That it seems is the location that they fail. I would not replace the tower and simply use a MIG and weld up the crack. Was there a Monto Carlo and Export brace in place? Also what engine does the car have? The big blocks have another panel at the lower part of the shock tower to stiffen things up.
#3
It did not have either a monte carlo bar or export brace. 2v302 was the engine I just pulled.
Are you recommending welding up the cracks? If you dont think they need to be replaced, I will just let the body shop weld up. I have another post on the qtr panels I will be putting up shortly.
Are you recommending welding up the cracks? If you dont think they need to be replaced, I will just let the body shop weld up. I have another post on the qtr panels I will be putting up shortly.
#4
I agree, those can be fixed.
I would cut out the area that is metal fatigued (I say about an inch up judging from the pictures), create a couple of patches, and replace the effected areas.
I would replace the entire fatigued area for two reasons;
1. Fatigued sheet metal is HARD to weld, it will "blow out" when the wire hits the metal.
2. The fatigued metal will break behind the weld even if you manage to put an acceptable weld down.
I would cut out the area that is metal fatigued (I say about an inch up judging from the pictures), create a couple of patches, and replace the effected areas.
I would replace the entire fatigued area for two reasons;
1. Fatigued sheet metal is HARD to weld, it will "blow out" when the wire hits the metal.
2. The fatigued metal will break behind the weld even if you manage to put an acceptable weld down.
#6
The key to this break is no Export brace and/or MC Bar was used, this is why it failed. You have got to use these. To fix the tower and not replace these supports will only last until you hit the first bump. Make sure the brace is on before you drive the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#8
I agree, those can be fixed.
I would cut out the area that is metal fatigued (I say about an inch up judging from the pictures), create a couple of patches, and replace the effected areas.
I would replace the entire fatigued area for two reasons;
1. Fatigued sheet metal is HARD to weld, it will "blow out" when the wire hits the metal.
2. The fatigued metal will break behind the weld even if you manage to put an acceptable weld down.
I would cut out the area that is metal fatigued (I say about an inch up judging from the pictures), create a couple of patches, and replace the effected areas.
I would replace the entire fatigued area for two reasons;
1. Fatigued sheet metal is HARD to weld, it will "blow out" when the wire hits the metal.
2. The fatigued metal will break behind the weld even if you manage to put an acceptable weld down.
Here's the repair you need, although this car's problem was rust-
Mustang Shock Tower Repair
#10
I think I may have misspoken about the export brace. There is bracing I assumed from the factory that runs from the firewall to the top of the shock towers. Was this sufficient or is everyone suggesting something stiffer from the aftermarket?