Haven't had time to look into the problem due to being between work, and school, but I was wondering if I could get some opinions just to make the process easier.

Recently installed new lifters, adjusted pushrods to 1/2 turn past 0 lash while both cam lobes where down, done in order.

Started the car right up, ran for 20mins at 2000-2800rmps

The problem I had was when I took the car out to drive it ran like the timing was off, but the distributer was never touched. My goal when I have time to get back to the car is to start with that, but just wondering if anyone else has input. I know the car pretty well and it ran like the timing was retarded a couple degrees.

Also as a side note, it did fix the lifter noise in cylinder 8, but the same noise does still come and go in that cylinder and only that one.

And before you ask, yes I used proper cam lobe, the lifters were installed on a old cam, and there was 0 wear on either the cam or the lifters.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

Hi,
What was the reason for the lifter install, in the first place?
Did you replace with OEM type and style?
Did you pre-load the lifters (assuming hydraulic) before installing?
Do a engine vac test and report the findings?
Have you re-torqued the exhaust manifold bolts? (offered not for the running, but, for the noise aspect).

 

Installed new lifters because there were 2 cylinders that were making a whole lot of noise

I replaced them with comp cam lifters, but yes they are OEM style, they are riding on an aftermarket cam

I soked the lifter overnight in oil

The noise is not exhaust, Ive done all that work myself and none leak.

 

OK, good. Do the engine vac check. Depending on the cam duration, you should see a steady needle in the mid teens. If not, lighten the pre-load to 3/8s. Too tight, you lose vacuum and signal.

This may seem redundant to you, but, I have used this method to adjust the hydraulic lifters with predictable success....

Start with the No. 1 cylinder ....

1. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop. You are now ready to adjust that cylinder's "intake" rocker arm.

2. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so.

3. Now pull up and down (or rotate) the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the movement of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one quarter to one half turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

4. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begins to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the "exhaust" rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 2 and 3 to adjust this rocker arm.


Good luck!

 

Could the preload being set too tight/loose cause the symptoms I am experiencing?

Also if lash is set too tight what would the vacume test look like?

The car idled perfect, reved normally, but under load it felt like timing was retarded too much. Thank you for your help!!!

 

Hi

"Also if lash is set too tight what would the vacume test look like?"

My comment "Too tight, you lose vacuum and signal."

If you tighten your lifters too much you reduce your engine's vac, however as noted, your cam's duration will affect this too.
Do the vac test before we speculate more. Attach the vac gauge to a "full time" vac port.
Make sure the engine is fully warmed and idling 700-900.
What is your initial timing?

 

could be a vac leak from the intake. Try spraying carb cleaner around the intake base where the gasket would normally seal the intake. Spray the carb cleaner as the engine idles if the idle changes then there is a leak at that location.

-Gun

 

Every engine that I've ran across with valves too tight wouldn't idle for crap and most of them popped back up the carb. How you got the IM off with the dist in place is unique but maybe you ought to check the static and advanced timing to make sure it is where you think it is. As far as idle vac readings - stock indications are in the 17-19 range (I define this a higher than mid teens - more like high teens)

 

Just as a point of reference, the '66 Factory Service Manual calls for 3/4 turn on the nut after you take up the play in the pushrod.

 

Nice trick to pull the intake and not touch the dist. Don't overlook the simple things. Is the vac advance hooked up correct?