Use a return style regulator, otherwise you need a PWM controller. Fuel shouldn't get too hot.

 

I'd recommend against wrapping ceramic coated headers. I've heard that wrapping them will ruin the coating.

You can tee from the current oil sending unit. You'd just need a switch that's normally open but closes with some minimum pressure, then tie that into the fuel pump relay wiring along with a bypass for startup.

 

hello;

the header wrap will help but will not ;likely be a big help.

you need a bigger radiator and'or fans.

yor rad and fans are likely chinese and if so, they are junk.

if you have money and want to fix it i can tell you the best and cheapeat way to fix it but i need very specific details forst. just ;let me know.

FYI - The biggest baddest fan on the planet is a lincoln mk VIII. it will sick small animals and children right off the street as you drive buy.

http://fanconversion.com/Product_list.php


around 4500 real cfm at around 42 amps.

it can be trimmed to be thinned and just a circle. the next best one is a ford contour two 12" fans.





from a mercury 4000 cfm.

 

Money is not an issue at this point. That Lincoln fan seems nice but I only have 3.5 in. Of clearance.

My fans move a ****load of air. Please take note that I sit in traffic during daily temps of 115* is hot as hell. I do have a/c and the condenser is in front of my radiator.
I was thinking about trimming out the license plate area of the front valance and rolling the edge so it looks good. This may let more cooler air in.
I also have a stock water pump on it. I was thinking about a high flow pump to help.

my current radiator is a 24inx18in becool 3 core aluminum

When I had my last built 289 with the same set up it ran cold as ice. The only diff. Was the water pump.