65 overheating issues
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,398
From: arizona
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ummm...yeah, i was only joking about having them flush your rad again...waste of time . . we can screw your car up just as easily and it won't cost you a penny...
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ummm...yeah, i was only joking about having them flush your rad again...waste of time . . we can screw your car up just as easily and it won't cost you a penny...
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Last edited by barnett468; Mar 9, 2015 at 11:32 PM.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 113
From: Texas
I live in Texas. We flew.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,398
From: arizona
please do not confuse us with other cars . . all we want to do is hear about yours only.
Last edited by barnett468; Mar 10, 2015 at 06:44 PM.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 113
From: Texas
your rad is obviously plugged so my guess is that you have the typical plugged rad syndrome and possible some narrowed passages in the block . . your water pump impeller may also be eroded away . . i have seen this on rare occasions . . the passages to the pump may be narrowed with calcification . . this is not rust and is best removed with something like clr as opposed to citric acid.
one plan is this.
do the flush i suggested.
do another flush with clr
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4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,398
From: arizona
ok, yes but that is not for the rust removal . . it does remove rust but it isn't great at that . . it removes the yellow powdery stuff that sometimes gets in the ports where the aluminum timing cover meets the block . . the ideal thing is to use the clr first to dissolve any of those deposits if there are any, then use the other stuff for the acid if you want to go thru that much effort, but don't use the clr only for acid removal because it won't do much.
we know you have rust . . we do not know if you have the other deposits.
we know you have rust . . we do not know if you have the other deposits.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 113
From: Texas
ok, yes but that is not for the rust removal . . it does remove rust but it isn't great at that . . it removes the yellow powdery stuff that sometimes gets in the ports where the aluminum timing cover meets the block . . the ideal thing is to use the clr first to dissolve any of those deposits if there are any, then use the other stuff for the acid if you want to go thru that much effort, but don't use the clr only for acid removal because it won't do much.
we know you have rust . . we do not know if you have the other deposits.
we know you have rust . . we do not know if you have the other deposits.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,398
From: arizona
has it quit loosing water?
does it still run hot?
.
Last edited by barnett468; Mar 12, 2015 at 01:02 AM.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 113
From: Texas
I called the local MB dealer and the parts department had no idea what I was talking about (asked for a citric acid coolant flush). Short of using something like this I'm not sure what to do.
http://smile.amazon.com/Citric-Acid-...ic+acid+powder
It hasn't run hot recently. I'll take it up on the freeway today and test it there. Since most of the rust that was in the cooling system has been flushed out, I don't expect any issues. Long term though I expect more rust to flake off from inside the core.
