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I inatalles pump in 2010 when I xhanges valves and redid top end, changed intake and carb. Then 2011 I parked the car and haven't touched it since as the transmission kept blowing a tear seal. In 2015 jan I changed to aod, new radiator and some other minor things. Just now this started happening.
so it ran perfectly for 1 year with the new pump and heads on it . . you parked it for 3 years and as soon as you started it, the problem was there?
if the water passages in the timing cover were 100% clear or close to it at that time, they "should" not plug up in 4 years.
I wouldn't say ran perfectly, it never idled smooth, always ran rich and perhaps towards the end before parking it for the 3 years I think one of the sparks were gone. I just found that out the other day when I tested them. ill let you all know tomorrow whats up. ive built my own leakdown tester and will test the cylinders despite the compression is good on all 8 cyl. at least it will give me a good idea how my valves are.
Ok so I decided at 9pm to start taking apart my engine to remove heads and take them to the machine shop tomorrow. I've taken everything apart and loosened the 10 bolts on each head but haven't yanked them off yet as its now 1am and I'd rather wait until morning to have full light out and be able to see what's up with the head gasket. I want to see where the problem is with the combustion leak into the coolant.
What I did find is that the rear coolant passage on the intake manifold was approx 85% clogged. See below:
Drivers side rear intake manifold
Passengers side rear on intake manifold
I had one fukin hell of a time trying to take out the coolant drain plugs from on the block. And i would have expected water to gush out rather than to just pour gently. Is there a way to flush the block and make sure there is no gook in the coolant like in my manifold?
Now back to my problem, being that I had a rear coolant passage on intake almost clogged up, this could possibly the noise I'm hearing but doesn't account for the pressure in cooling system and eventually overflowing of coolant.
that goo is coagulated antifreeze . . it can also plug ports in the head gasket and timing cover.
once the heads are off, have them magged for cracks and checked for flatness . . if you have a low compression engine, you could have them milled to increase compression.
a plugged rear intake passage on a 289 or 302 will not cause your problem.
poke a bent dental pick in the block drain holes . . they might be gooed up.
you could put some of the goo in a glass and put some citric acid or oxalic acid and water or clr bathroom cleaner in it and see if it will dissolve it.
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Last edited by barnett468; 04-07-2015 at 11:53 PM.
Yea what a mess. Ans how damn heavy are these freekin heads. Just dropped them off at the machine shop to shave them down a hair and put them under pressure to check for cracks. All Pistons had carbon on them, powdery like, and cyl 7 was a little greasy and not as smooth. Hope that was my problem. Anyway I need to clean out all the water residue from the block now. Any suggestions??
Not bad, it's now 9pm, this time yesterday I started taking things apart and now I'm ready for the rebuild. First I have to clean up all the silicone beading and old gasket stuck all over the place. Any recommendations on what to use to get them off? I have 80grit sandpaper that ill use to smooth it out after its almost clean but what would you recommend?
And also gotta clean the coolant out of the block and make sure there is no gook left behind. Any recommendations here??
Also what would you put in the cylinders to avoid getting them dirty? I was thinking a balloon slightly inflated and to rub it a bit with oil to get it sticky..
Then I'm pretty much all ready to rebuild. I had the heads Vaccum tested and pressure tested and they are good. Number 7cyl exhaust valve was a bit whitish so my leak was around there somewhere.
The only times I've come across gook like that is when two types of incompatible antifreeze are mixed together or there was oil mixed in... with the coolants specifically the Dexcool (GM orange stuff) with run of the mill green anti-freeze. Not to say other combinations of stuff couldn't cause that but what do you think caused the goo to form?
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also, was there gunk in any of the head gasket ports?
we need the part numbers off your heads.
we need your engine size.
i would not cut the heads until we have that info.
also they must measure the heads for flatness to see if that is your problem.
i would spray carb cleaner in one bank of ports in the head at a time and see if it weeps out around the valves.
i would have aslo had them magged for extra insurance.
yeah, just shop vac the coolant or use paper towels . . change the oil with oil with zddp if you have a non roller cam, then run it a few minutes then change the oil and filter.
number 7 looks like it is burning oil.
if you have a big cam you should put pins in the rocker arm studs and get rid of those horrible springs and valve rotators.
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Last edited by barnett468; 04-08-2015 at 03:02 PM.
Now that you mentioned it, I did once top up with blue antifreeze. I never knew it mattered but what i think mainly caused it is the hard water in this country. Has a lot of calcification and at those two spots I have temp guage hooked up so it's not 100% clear passage. Plus car sitting 3 years with pretty cool winters and 100+ summers. Whatever it is, it's almost gone and tomorrow I'll finish cleaning everything up and Friday put her all back together
04-06-2015, 02:17 PM
