Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Hydraulic clutch issues

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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 03:06 PM
  #1  
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MonsterBilly
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Default Hydraulic clutch issues

I have a t5 with a hydraulic clutch. It worked fine for years.
recently I thought my clutch was bad because it seemed to have a difficult time engaging and shifting. Then once rolling the clutch slips.
I replaced the clutch and bearing and am having the same problem. It's like there is not enough throw to engage and dis engage the pressure plate. This has just developed over time.
has anyone else had this issue? Could the master of slave be gummed up so one of them is hanging up?
I am perplexed
Old Dec 9, 2018 | 10:07 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by MonsterBilly
I have a t5 with a hydraulic clutch. It worked fine for years.
recently I thought my clutch was bad because it seemed to have a difficult time engaging and shifting. Then once rolling the clutch slips.
I replaced the clutch and bearing and am having the same problem. It's like there is not enough throw to engage and dis engage the pressure plate. This has just developed over time.
has anyone else had this issue? Could the master of slave be gummed up so one of them is hanging up?
I am perplexed
Model and year, engine type? Is it an add-on hydraulic clutch? Where is the slave cylinder located? If outside the bellhousing, have someone depress clutch pedal, watch throw-out fork movement, should move about two inches total.

What about air in the system?
Old Dec 9, 2018 | 10:07 PM
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internal slave on TOB or does it use the old style clutch fork with the external slave?
Old Dec 10, 2018 | 09:22 AM
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I have a factory clutch fork with external slave. Slave is rather new. The master is not. Initially they were installed 10 years ago. I replaced the slave about 4 years ago. Both are CNC brand.

I do not think I bbn is a it in the system. I will bleed it again to be sure. It feels like the master is gummed up and not always returning properly.
Old Dec 10, 2018 | 04:32 PM
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The master has a broken return spring. Simply remove the master, pull the retaining clip and slide the guts out. Look for excessive wear on one side of the piston and bore also check the spring.

I would break Chuck Norris Company springs every 4 or 5 years. Easy to replace they have a rebuild kit
Old Dec 11, 2018 | 07:24 AM
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Thanks man, that is the direction I was leaning.
Old Dec 12, 2018 | 09:01 AM
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Well that way it. I had a 3/4 inch master cylinder. I could not source a local rebuild kit so I installed a 7/8 that I picked up at an offroad shop. Everything is working properly. However, the pedal is much stiffer now. It felt better before. The offroad shop guy said the going with a bigger master will effect pedal feel. Boy was he correct
Old Dec 12, 2018 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MonsterBilly
Well that way it. I had a 3/4 inch master cylinder. I could not source a local rebuild kit so I installed a 7/8 that I picked up at an offroad shop. Everything is working properly. However, the pedal is much stiffer now. It felt better before. The offroad shop guy said the going with a bigger master will effect pedal feel. Boy was he correct
The smaller master cylinder requires less pedal force, but the pedal must move farther than with the larger diameter master. The slave, on the other hand, must be able to move the fork far enough to ensure full clutch release. A larger slave diameter will reduce pedal pressure needed, but care must be taken fork moves far enough. It's all in the hydraulics!
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