thiswillleaveamark

Guys, I am looking for some feedback from actual owners. I've read a ton of literature and engine build articles. I am looking to see what the real world drivers have to say about their engines. I am looking to either build a junk yard stroker 351 to 408ish or go with a dart type block for 427 strokers ( money being the issue). Once I start the project I'll have a better grasp of funds to allocate. I'm finishing up my FJ40 project this spring and I'm planning on my next build. I'm mostly interested in your feed back on engines that are close to what I'm going to build. Yes, I know 408 an 427 are a bit different. I'm stuck between running dual plane intake with 190 ish cc intake runner aluminum heads and around a 230-240ish duration dual pattern type cam or going to go with a single plane 200 to 210 ish intake runner and 240 -250 ish duration (probably duel pattern) cam. Running around 10.5-11:1 compression ratio. I need to keep CR low since my area only has 91 octane and I'm not really wanting to add toluene. Plus I have no interest in adding power adders and I'm high altitude 5-9k.
My question is in a 3000# mustang how is your low end vs top end? For me it would be more of an occasional blast up to high rpm. Most of my driving is low rpm. Reason I'm leaning toward the dual plane setup. But, is there anyone out there that has the dual plane setup and wishes they went more of a higher rpm. Conversely, is there anyone out there that built a higher RPM ie. sacrificed the low end torque and drivability and is happy or wished they had more drivability? I'm wondering how much does the low end suffer with the single plane setup? Is idle vacuum bad with the longer duration cam or are you happy with your drivability for the brakes, climate control system etc. Things that magazine articles will never give you the real scoop on. I'm looking at a 5 spd stick or adapting a ford 6spd auto into the mix. I'll run around a 350-373 rear gear. I appreciate your feedback.

barnett468

It sounds like you know a bit about engines, but if money is a concern, I would keep it simple and just build a 408 or 418 and use trick flow heads. I usually use AFR heads but they are a bit more expensive.

If you had unlimited funds, you could easily build a 438 with a dart block at 4.125 bore and a 4.1 stroke crank.

You can get plenty of torque from a single plane if you build everything around it and use the right one, so that is not a huge concern, but for an easy torque build, a dual plane is of course better.

I would also get a custom cam in your particular case because engines run at high altitudes can benefit from a little different approach to the cam design. One person I would call and ask about the cam is Chris Straub.

https://straubtechnologies.com/

I also think a 6 speed in a big block is utterly pointless.

If you are worried about vacuum for power brakes or want a fairly smooth idle, the bigger the engine, the smaller the cam can be to make similar power.

.

thiswillleaveamark

Barnett468. Thanks for the suggestion about Straub. Will keep that in mind. Reason for the 6spd is to build my AOD or get another one to handle that level of power will cost as much as the 6spd - actually more. I can get the electronics for about $1500 and a used trans for about the same in my area. I know the stock 6spd will handle that level with no issues. Plus I can delete the 1st gear with programming. And have a better overdrive where as the AOD/4 will have to have the lock up torque converter rendered useless with a one piece shaft. But, I'm still very much leaning toward the low profile Tremec. It will fit without modifications to my trans tunnel. I'd still like to keep my stock deluxe console and overhead to match. So, 5spd might be the answer. As this won't be a daily driver it will be fine. Thats what my Ninja and FJ40 (Once it is done) are for. Winters are cold up here in Tahoe area. Getting too old to ride my bike in ice, snow and 22 degrees. Just not fun for me anymore at those temps.

I'm thinking a cam with about 110+ lobe separation for decent vacuum. I have the steering wheel with tilt and tilt away. The tilt away works under vacuum when the door is opened the whole wheel goes to the center console. Plus power discs etc. So definitely vacuum is important. I really don't know what number I need. If anyone has some input; I'm all ears. I think 110 LS will get me about 10" or better. I think 112 LS will be almost 14" with the 230-240ish durations I'm looking at.

Another darn idea that keeps kickin in my head is to sale my Doug Thurley? sp? long tube headers and go with a single turbo kit. For just a few more bucks over headers I can get a decent turbo kit. What the hell? 7-800+ HP never hurt... I know I'll be pushing the junk yard 351; but, I'm not risk adverse. Probably won't have the funds to go that wild; so, I'll just get some good heads etc.

Just too many ideas right now and nothing really narrowed down other than I want to go with Street or Track (SorT) front suspension and a SorT rear 3 link. Not sure if I'm going to modify the setup to put in a 8.8 which I have or sell it and go with the 9". I know the 8.8 can handle anything I'll throw at it once built.

Really depends on how much my restoration runs. I know I did real good on cost for my FJ40 frame off restoration, although the 4 years was longer than I wanted. But, I had a lot of other projects jump up in front of it so... Just putting the finishing touches on it. Then I'll do a garage cleanup. I have a couple small items to hit before tackling the Mustang.

Sorry, Got off topic. Too much alcohol.... That reminds me. My cup z dry...

barnett468

you won't get a true 700 plus hp from a junk yard 351 unless you put way more money than it is worth to keep it together. also, if someone gave me a new turbo setup to use i still wouldnm't use it.