Good morning Everybody,

I recently replaced my power steering pump, slave cylinder, lines, and control valve. Rebuilt the entire front end. Car has handled like a dream for 85-100 miles..... Yesterday I jump in to take my daughter to the park and no power steering. No puddles on the ground. No leaks from the lines. There's fluid in the pump. Maybe a blockage somewhere? Faulty part? If there is a faulty part, it would probably be the pump or slave cylinder, can't find much on testing the individual part.

Car developed a stumble on acceleration. I've been told to swap out the power control valve as it is the most likely culprit, but the car does die when the idle screws are turned all the way in and also after about 20 seconds of blocking the front bowl air valve. I'm leaning toward vacuum advance. I can't seem to get the total timing below 45, no matter how much I turn the screw inside the advance canister. I had a bad spark plug wire, so I'm going to check the spark plug tomorrow. I'd like to rule out the possibility of a fouled plug.

Any suggestions on either topic would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

 

First, I am leary of auto parts!! I can hardly believe the junk we have to buy! When ever I can now, I buy nos, or fix what I can to keep origonal. Don't get me started on that !!
but to your hesitating on excelleration, check the acelerator pump on the carb. Very easy to do. 1st: know that there is gas in the carb, starting the car will verify that. Shut the car off, Then remove the air cleaner. Helps if you have a flashlight, shine it down the throat of the carb and manually depress the accelerator arm to wide open throttle. You should see two streams streams of gas squirting in the the carb. You need to make sure the choke valve is fully open...it will be under the choke but above the throttle valve. It should starts squirting as soon as you crack the throttle open an continue to some where around 1/2 -3/4 throttle. If it doesn't start immediately, it would need adjusting, if it doesn't squirt at all, it needs replacing...easy fix. Can walk you thru that if needed. If needs adjusting, I would have to get the specs for from my trusty ( or should I say crusty) 1967 chilton repair Manuel .
As for the timing, I don't believe the screw you are talking about is designed to adjust the timing. It is there to adjust the vacuum advance diaphragm to the distributor. To adjust you timing, unhook the vacuum line from the distributor and PLUG THE LINE. Then there is a bolt that holds the distributor down at the base of it. Start the engine, loosen the bolt, and adjust the timing ( with timing light ) to the desired "base" timing, tighten the bolt, and reattach the vacumm line, you should see the advance increase at that time. The. You can give it throttle to see the advance. Once it reaches a predetermined rpm, the advance will max out, I believe the screw you were turning adjusts this setting.
I might add at this point that new points and condenser might be a good idea. Or consider switching to a Petronics type electronic ignition..keep your origonal distributor withou the points maintence. If you are not familiar with adjusting points, the petronics is a little easier to set up too. Be sure to recheck your timing after the points.
Now to the steering, it is strange that it was working then quit. I find it hard to believe the pump would just stop pumping without any other symptoms. Even low fluid should start out being more intermittent. I know on my 67 power steering, the control valve is activated by an arm or stud at one end, when the steering wheel is moved, the steering linkage moves this stud one way or the other and this allowes pressurized fluid to activeate the slave CYL, my guess is that something has stuck, gone wrong, binding, in the control valve. As you have found out, not much info on complete power steering failures. Usually leaks, squeaks, growns, etc . It might be worth putting the front end on jack stands and start the engine and run the steering wheel lock to lock about twenty times. That normally bleads the air out, but it might just loosen up something too.
If none of this get you any where, you either need to start diagnosing the control valve, or replace it and see what happens. There is kits to repair them is you are so inclined. Is yours origonal?
will keep watch on the progress!!
Don

 

I get your being leary of new BS auto parts. I have the OG distributor, but figured it would've been expensive to rebuild. I bought a Distributor from Rock auto for around $60. The first one had a cracked cap (couldn't tell by looking. Took me forever to realize it was faulty) Replaced with a new one. Now facing similar symptoms a few months later. Contacted manufacturer and after 45 on the phone with a tech, distributor is most likely issue. So maybe 3rd times a charm. If not, I'll start checking voltages to confirm it's a fuel delivery issue.
New fuel pump, holley reman carb is 4 months old, new fuel tank, Original lines (could be suspect), new fuel filter, looks like I get a good spray on both jets. Accelerator pump adjusted so that it opens just as the throttle starts to move. used a .020 to check for clearance.

I've always been confused regarding the automatic choke. I finally sat down and read a Holley article on the topic. I've tried working that choke 50x, but had no idea that if the car wasn't 65-70* I was wasting my time. LMAO. I'll look for a digital thermometer to wire up to the temp sensor. Maybe a friend has one of those red dot infrared readers.

As for the steering, that little bar lock fell out of the control valve, so I'm guessing that it's shimmied itself to a point that doesn't allow fluid to flow through the valve. I'll pull the stang into the garage this weekend and do some tinkering. It's our second car at the moment, so I've got to have it figured out by Monday.

WIsh me luck, lol.

Again, thank you for the response. I really appreciate your taking the time to help me out.

 

I am understanding us use this car pretty regular, I f you are not concerned about being origonal, I would suggest a carb swap, you will have a car that is more enjoyable to drive, more get up and go and some say better mpg. I went with the Webber.
When you have time, go to vintage Inlines we site, go to the menu and click on the Tec info tab, then go the the classic Inlines tab, it will take you to their old website that has a bunch if reading on multiple points, when you see the list, tap on each one an it will take you to Tec articles on that topic....all for 6 CYL engines, great info !!
should give info on you existing carb too
time to learn, I know I did😁
Don

 

I really appreciate the comment! I'm not as concerned as my wife..... It was he mom's car before she passed, so as OG as possible without putting our toddler at risk. The car is a 289 (bored .30 over) so don't know if a Weber would work for it. I bought the Holley SNiper for my F100, but it's given me so many issues that It's coming off as less reliable than a 4 barrel carb. Holley's got a tps in the mail, hoping that solves the 9 months of problems I've had with the truck, since pulling the 2 barrel holley and installing this 4 barrel sniper. We have a nice day here in the northeast, so I'll probably do some wrenching on the stang in an hour or so... I've heard alot about the Weber carbs. I was in the military and found the old tech guides lying around in the shop.

Thanks,

 

My apologies, some how my wires got crossed and I thought you had the six cylinder. Gave you a lot of info for the six!😖😖
did you get the timing strieght? Going to have to go back /. Start over
Don

 

3rd that’s right 3rd distributor from spectra and we’ve got a smooth running 68. Also did some rolling around on the floor.... look what I found....

must’ve had 1 to many and left it out. So control valve probably worked itself loose and doesn’t get the movement it needs to regulate the fluid. Guess i got to pull this back apart and get it in there. I’m not 100% but the old one may be half stuck in there. Guess I’ll throw the drill battery on the charger...... all good though, can’t wait to drive this girl.

anybody know if this would’ve burnt up the control valve? Should I go ahead and order another one now?? Lol....

 

Don't think you need to worry about burning it up. Not that kind of setup. Get it all put back together, with no extra parts👍, and it will be fine. I think leaks are always a battle on these old systems too.
Good weekend for cruseing in fla, finally some cooler weather😎😎