Starter issues
I had an issue with my '68 Mustang starting. I traced the issue to a loose, frayed wire from the postive battery terminal. I replaced it and the car started like a champ. The negative wire, and the wire from the solenoid to the starter were in bad shape as well so I changed both of those. Unfortunately when trying to take the wire off the starter, the contact bolt snapped. Since the starter was 52 yrs old, (I think) I decided to replace the starter. New starter in and the car won't start. I get a loud click, but it doesn't turn the engine over. Checked all connections, and used a voltmeter to confirm there is power getting to the starter. I have read about a shim that might be needed when putting a new starter in an old Ford 289. Anyone know anything about that, or if that may be my problem? Any other thoughts?
Turn the engine over by hand a little and give it another whack. If that doesn't do the trick loosen the starter so it's far enough away it doesn't touch the flywheel and turn it over and see if you can hear the starter motor engage and spinning. If you are using an OEM style starter you shouldn't need a shim.
Thanks for your help on this. I followed your advice and turned the engine over by hand, and even took the starter off and turned it by hand as well. Buttoned everything back up and still, just a loud click in the solenoid and nothing at the starter. I returned the starter, and got a new one. The original "new" starter was a motorcraft starter remanufactured by another company. The second one I purchased, for substantially more money, was remanufactured by Motorcraft. I put it in and the car fired right up. It pisses me off that I spent so much time trying to diagnose a problem which was caused by a faulty part that I just purchased. I guess the lesson hear is to stick with Ford and Motorcraft whenever possible.
Thanks again for your help
Thanks again for your help
Unfortunately man that type of issue happens constantly on a ton of the generic/reman brand parts.Ive read forums where customers have literally purchased 3 to 4 of the same part before they managed to get a working part.Starters, alternators & especially sensors are notorious for having this problem,so don't waste your time,labor & money on these items.My original tfi module lasted 130k miles then I went thru 3 generic tfi's in a matter of 6 months.RockAuto and other online suppliers usually have really great prices on dealer brand components so other than having to wait a couple days for shipping,buy the brand name parts so they'll work the first time you install them.BTW - a duralast alternator came close to burning my 90 GT to the ground at 2am one morning.I had just installed it the day before.
Luckily my bud jumped out of the car and yanked the battery cable off as soon as the flames began to melt the cai piping.
If it will work on your model,high torque mini starters were installed on some of the 90's 5.0
3.8 Fords,just for future reference.
Luckily my bud jumped out of the car and yanked the battery cable off as soon as the flames began to melt the cai piping.
If it will work on your model,high torque mini starters were installed on some of the 90's 5.0
3.8 Fords,just for future reference.
Thanks. I've heard the same thing about reman parts. I wasn't trying to cut corners or save money, but the part was available at a local store, and it was a nice day, so I wanted to drive my car. In the end it cost me over 2 weeks of diagnosing the problem and getting the replacement part. They won't get me twice.
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boogerschnot
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
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Sep 25, 2007 01:33 PM



