3M headlight resto kit- BEFORE AND AFTER
#1
3M headlight resto kit- BEFORE AND AFTER
Here are some pictures of my headlights before/after I used the kit.
Before -
After -
The kit was $17.99 and the tape was $3.00, always tape it 3-4 layers and make it really wide. Its not worth scratching your paint over $3 tape. I did put a clear coat over it, but I wasn't sure of a good one. If somebody can suggest one and where I can get it. Advanced Auto Parts/Home Depot don't have any clear coats for it.
Tomorrow, I will do the headlights next to the main ones. Also going to do my moms car.
Before -
After -
The kit was $17.99 and the tape was $3.00, always tape it 3-4 layers and make it really wide. Its not worth scratching your paint over $3 tape. I did put a clear coat over it, but I wasn't sure of a good one. If somebody can suggest one and where I can get it. Advanced Auto Parts/Home Depot don't have any clear coats for it.
Tomorrow, I will do the headlights next to the main ones. Also going to do my moms car.
Last edited by AtlanticBlue_98GT; 08-23-2009 at 09:55 PM.
#2
There are two types of sealers commonly used.
One is polyurethane and the other is acrylic.
The polyurethane is oil based and will turn yellow in the sun.
The acrylic is water based and will not turn yellow as quickly but will break down much faster than the other.
You can get either in a hardware store.
Your headlights did not appear to be damaged before you started.
As best as I could see it look like oxidation on the surface of your lens.
Using an abrasive method removed the oxidation but it removed the UV layer too!
Now you have some serious surface damage.
If at all possible you want to save your UV layer. Unless its already damaged, you should not resurface your headlight.
Try a pure liquid non abrasive lens deoxidizer on your next job first.
You can always sand afterwards if you don't the results you want.
If the deoxidizer works you won't need a sealer and you won't have to worry about your headlights peeling and turning yellow anytime soon.
One is polyurethane and the other is acrylic.
The polyurethane is oil based and will turn yellow in the sun.
The acrylic is water based and will not turn yellow as quickly but will break down much faster than the other.
You can get either in a hardware store.
Your headlights did not appear to be damaged before you started.
As best as I could see it look like oxidation on the surface of your lens.
Using an abrasive method removed the oxidation but it removed the UV layer too!
Now you have some serious surface damage.
If at all possible you want to save your UV layer. Unless its already damaged, you should not resurface your headlight.
Try a pure liquid non abrasive lens deoxidizer on your next job first.
You can always sand afterwards if you don't the results you want.
If the deoxidizer works you won't need a sealer and you won't have to worry about your headlights peeling and turning yellow anytime soon.
#3
There are two types of sealers commonly used.
One is polyurethane and the other is acrylic.
The polyurethane is oil based and will turn yellow in the sun.
The acrylic is water based and will not turn yellow as quickly but will break down much faster than the other.
You can get either in a hardware store.
Your headlights did not appear to be damaged before you started.
As best as I could see it look like oxidation on the surface of your lens.
Using an abrasive method removed the oxidation but it removed the UV layer too!
Now you have some serious surface damage.
If at all possible you want to save your UV layer. Unless its already damaged, you should not resurface your headlight.
Try a pure liquid non abrasive lens deoxidizer on your next job first.
You can always sand afterwards if you don't the results you want.
If the deoxidizer works you won't need a sealer and you won't have to worry about your headlights peeling and turning yellow anytime soon.
One is polyurethane and the other is acrylic.
The polyurethane is oil based and will turn yellow in the sun.
The acrylic is water based and will not turn yellow as quickly but will break down much faster than the other.
You can get either in a hardware store.
Your headlights did not appear to be damaged before you started.
As best as I could see it look like oxidation on the surface of your lens.
Using an abrasive method removed the oxidation but it removed the UV layer too!
Now you have some serious surface damage.
If at all possible you want to save your UV layer. Unless its already damaged, you should not resurface your headlight.
Try a pure liquid non abrasive lens deoxidizer on your next job first.
You can always sand afterwards if you don't the results you want.
If the deoxidizer works you won't need a sealer and you won't have to worry about your headlights peeling and turning yellow anytime soon.
The picture does no justice because the first picture was taken with my camera awhile ago. The "new" headlights was with my brothers camera ( much better ). They were yellow, couldn't even see through them. I also tried " Liquid Headlight Restoration ". Some crap at Advanced for $6(Didn't work). They are smooth, no surface damage and they are polished with some 3M plastic cream.
Last edited by AtlanticBlue_98GT; 08-24-2009 at 03:14 PM.
#5
Wash the headlight.
Tape around your lens and make it wide ( do 3 or 4 layers to avoid doing damage )
then just use the pads as directed.
polish then wash it and admire!
It all depends on your headlights, my moms took 5 minutes because hers had a light frost to them, they look brand new and smooth. I can take a picture tomorrow with my camera so you can see the headlights in a good picture. Its worth the $21 or whatever ( kit+tape ).
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