Porter Cable Paint Correction Question
07-06-2010, 12:33 AM
#1
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Porter Cable Paint Correction Question
I found some very light scratches on my trunk lid. I must have had a small rock hidden in the micro fiber towel I was using. I tried to get them out by had with 3m perfect-it 2 rubbing compound and had no luck.
After deciding I cant live with the scratches im going to pull out the PC and get on it.
My question would be is the Orange Cutting pad and Rubbing compound going to be too aggressive? (I have 3 coats of clear)
Also what speed setting would you use?
I have had lost of experience with the pc for regular polishing and have had great results. This will be my first attempt at paint correction and I really dont want to make any mistakes so im being extra cautious.
Im open to all the advice I can get to make these scratches go away!
Thanks
After deciding I cant live with the scratches im going to pull out the PC and get on it.
My question would be is the Orange Cutting pad and Rubbing compound going to be too aggressive? (I have 3 coats of clear)
Also what speed setting would you use?
I have had lost of experience with the pc for regular polishing and have had great results. This will be my first attempt at paint correction and I really dont want to make any mistakes so im being extra cautious.
Im open to all the advice I can get to make these scratches go away!
Thanks
Last edited by rst08tierney; 07-06-2010 at 09:47 PM.
07-06-2010, 03:02 PM
#2
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Ryan
Always start out with the least aggressive method and work your way up if needed. I would start out with a light cutting polish and the white polishing pad, if you don't get the results bump up to the orange light cutting pad. If you still aren't seeing the results you like step up to a heavier polish with the same method.
Even with the orange light cutting pad and a medium aggressive compound, you aren't removing that much clear, just a minute amount.
When you are doing paint correction, you are going to get the best results on speeds 5 and 6.
Let me know if you have any other questions bud.
Always start out with the least aggressive method and work your way up if needed. I would start out with a light cutting polish and the white polishing pad, if you don't get the results bump up to the orange light cutting pad. If you still aren't seeing the results you like step up to a heavier polish with the same method.
Even with the orange light cutting pad and a medium aggressive compound, you aren't removing that much clear, just a minute amount.
When you are doing paint correction, you are going to get the best results on speeds 5 and 6.
Let me know if you have any other questions bud.
07-07-2010, 11:06 AM
#3
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How do the 3M Products shape up compared to others such as Optimum and Meguiars?
Like I said I have the Perfect-it 2 Compound. Would this be considered a light cutting polish? I have only used this compound by hand for my door jams and over spray in tight places.
Like I said I have the Perfect-it 2 Compound. Would this be considered a light cutting polish? I have only used this compound by hand for my door jams and over spray in tight places.
07-07-2010, 02:06 PM
#4
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The new Optimum Hyper Polish just released not too long ago, I've been using that on most of my light polishing detail jobs, it is an awesome finish polishing plus it can be sprayed onto the pad for easier use. I will have the new Hyper Compound in next week, this is also awesome for a compound, you don't have any dusting like you get with most polishes and it cuts through scratches and swirls like crazy. Optimum has really raised the bar with their new spray polishes.
I would try using the stuff you already have, if that doesn't work like you want it to, try some other products.
07-09-2010, 10:12 PM
#5
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I did do some home work on Meguiars M105 and M205 so I could let you know where my 3m products I have rate on the cutting scale
The Perfect it 2 Rubbing Compound = M105
The Perfect it 2 Foam Polishing Pad Glaze = M205
The Perfect it 2 Finishing Material =M80
The buffing pads I have are as followed : (off topic never used the original pc pad, I heard its garbage and should be thrown away on other forums, is this true?)
Original PC Pad
(all ccs pads)
Orange
White
Black
Blue
With this being said, knowing I have PC, what polish/pad combo would you start with?
Im thinking form what you said my point of attack will be:
1.) white pad/M205 if no luck go to
2.) white pad/M105 if no luck go to
3.) orange pad/M205 if no luck go to
4.) orange pad/M105 if no luck place an order for new compounds from you
I hope I did my home work. Let me know if you will start the same way or if you would try the M80 first.
Thanks
The Perfect it 2 Rubbing Compound = M105
The Perfect it 2 Foam Polishing Pad Glaze = M205
The Perfect it 2 Finishing Material =M80
The buffing pads I have are as followed : (off topic never used the original pc pad, I heard its garbage and should be thrown away on other forums, is this true?)
Original PC Pad
(all ccs pads)
Orange
White
Black
Blue
With this being said, knowing I have PC, what polish/pad combo would you start with?
Im thinking form what you said my point of attack will be:
1.) white pad/M205 if no luck go to
2.) white pad/M105 if no luck go to
3.) orange pad/M205 if no luck go to
4.) orange pad/M105 if no luck place an order for new compounds from you
I hope I did my home work. Let me know if you will start the same way or if you would try the M80 first.
Thanks
07-09-2010, 11:14 PM
#6
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Westville, IL
Posts: 3,321
I did do some home work on Meguiars M105 and M205 so I could let you know where my 3m products I have rate on the cutting scale
The Perfect it 2 Rubbing Compound = M105
The Perfect it 2 Foam Polishing Pad Glaze = M205
The Perfect it 2 Finishing Material =M80
The buffing pads I have are as followed : (off topic never used the original pc pad, I heard its garbage and should be thrown away on other forums, is this true?)
Original PC Pad
(all ccs pads)
Orange
White
Black
Blue
With this being said, knowing I have PC, what polish/pad combo would you start with?
Im thinking form what you said my point of attack will be:
1.) white pad/M205 if no luck go to
2.) white pad/M105 if no luck go to
3.) orange pad/M205 if no luck go to
4.) orange pad/M105 if no luck place an order for new compounds from you
I hope I did my home work. Let me know if you will start the same way or if you would try the M80 first.
Thanks
The Perfect it 2 Rubbing Compound = M105
The Perfect it 2 Foam Polishing Pad Glaze = M205
The Perfect it 2 Finishing Material =M80
The buffing pads I have are as followed : (off topic never used the original pc pad, I heard its garbage and should be thrown away on other forums, is this true?)
Original PC Pad
(all ccs pads)
Orange
White
Black
Blue
With this being said, knowing I have PC, what polish/pad combo would you start with?
Im thinking form what you said my point of attack will be:
1.) white pad/M205 if no luck go to
2.) white pad/M105 if no luck go to
3.) orange pad/M205 if no luck go to
4.) orange pad/M105 if no luck place an order for new compounds from you
I hope I did my home work. Let me know if you will start the same way or if you would try the M80 first.
Thanks
07-16-2010, 11:04 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location:
Posts: 882
Thanks for your help! I got such great results on my trunk with the PC I decided to knock out the entire car with polish and compound. Huge difference but very time consuming!
I was always under the impression that the PC was more of a toy for the auto detailing enthusiast like my self. Before this correction I only used my PC on maybe a 3 or 4 to apply wax and glaze. Man have I been missing out all this time. Im glad I tackled this job, I still have the Machine Polish, Glaze and Wax and Top Coat to still apply, but at this point my tiny scratches went from about 90% to 98% corrected. I will share some pictures when the jobs complete.
The only down side is the powder of the compounds and polish. I now need to wash the floor of my garage when im done and clean up the engine bay a bit.
Now for 3 questions.
1.)Have you used Meguiars Solo Products? If so like/dislike/powder res. left behind?
2.) Waxing. For extra depth, is it good to apply 2 coats or is it a waste of time? Usually in the past I apply one coat of liquid followed by a thick paste wax and finish with a top coat. Thoughts?
3.) Should I follow up a machine glaze with a thicker hand glaze such as 3m Imperial Hand Glaze to hide any scratches I may not have seen or gotten or does the machine glaze knock that process out all together? I know with the research I did on the 3m Hand glaze, it does have filler. For the Machine Glaze im using Meguiars #7
I was always under the impression that the PC was more of a toy for the auto detailing enthusiast like my self. Before this correction I only used my PC on maybe a 3 or 4 to apply wax and glaze. Man have I been missing out all this time. Im glad I tackled this job, I still have the Machine Polish, Glaze and Wax and Top Coat to still apply, but at this point my tiny scratches went from about 90% to 98% corrected. I will share some pictures when the jobs complete.
The only down side is the powder of the compounds and polish. I now need to wash the floor of my garage when im done and clean up the engine bay a bit.
Now for 3 questions.
1.)Have you used Meguiars Solo Products? If so like/dislike/powder res. left behind?
2.) Waxing. For extra depth, is it good to apply 2 coats or is it a waste of time? Usually in the past I apply one coat of liquid followed by a thick paste wax and finish with a top coat. Thoughts?
3.) Should I follow up a machine glaze with a thicker hand glaze such as 3m Imperial Hand Glaze to hide any scratches I may not have seen or gotten or does the machine glaze knock that process out all together? I know with the research I did on the 3m Hand glaze, it does have filler. For the Machine Glaze im using Meguiars #7
Last edited by rst08tierney; 07-16-2010 at 11:12 AM.
07-16-2010, 11:52 AM
#8
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Westville, IL
Posts: 3,321
Thanks for your help! I got such great results on my trunk with the PC I decided to knock out the entire car with polish and compound. Huge difference but very time consuming!
I was always under the impression that the PC was more of a toy for the auto detailing enthusiast like my self. Before this correction I only used my PC on maybe a 3 or 4 to apply wax and glaze. Man have I been missing out all this time. Im glad I tackled this job, I still have the Machine Polish, Glaze and Wax and Top Coat to still apply, but at this point my tiny scratches went from about 90% to 98% corrected. I will share some pictures when the jobs complete.
The only down side is the powder of the compounds and polish. I now need to wash the floor of my garage when im done and clean up the engine bay a bit.
Now for 3 questions.
1.)Have you used Meguiars Solo Products? If so like/dislike/powder res. left behind?
2.) Waxing. For extra depth, is it good to apply 2 coats or is it a waste of time? Usually in the past I apply one coat of liquid followed by a thick paste wax and finish with a top coat. Thoughts?
3.) Should I follow up a machine glaze with a thicker hand glaze such as 3m Imperial Hand Glaze to hide any scratches I may not have seen or gotten or does the machine glaze knock that process out all together? I know with the research I did on the 3m Hand glaze, it does have filler. For the Machine Glaze im using Meguiars #7
I was always under the impression that the PC was more of a toy for the auto detailing enthusiast like my self. Before this correction I only used my PC on maybe a 3 or 4 to apply wax and glaze. Man have I been missing out all this time. Im glad I tackled this job, I still have the Machine Polish, Glaze and Wax and Top Coat to still apply, but at this point my tiny scratches went from about 90% to 98% corrected. I will share some pictures when the jobs complete.
The only down side is the powder of the compounds and polish. I now need to wash the floor of my garage when im done and clean up the engine bay a bit.
Now for 3 questions.
1.)Have you used Meguiars Solo Products? If so like/dislike/powder res. left behind?
2.) Waxing. For extra depth, is it good to apply 2 coats or is it a waste of time? Usually in the past I apply one coat of liquid followed by a thick paste wax and finish with a top coat. Thoughts?
3.) Should I follow up a machine glaze with a thicker hand glaze such as 3m Imperial Hand Glaze to hide any scratches I may not have seen or gotten or does the machine glaze knock that process out all together? I know with the research I did on the 3m Hand glaze, it does have filler. For the Machine Glaze im using Meguiars #7
When I wax, I always do at least 2-3 coats, anything over that is just overkill.
Yes, you can use one of those glazes to hide what scratches/swirls you didn't remove, then top with your wax.
07-18-2010, 07:16 PM
#9
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As promised, pictures, because no job is complete with them. I can honestly say I only have once scratch on the entire car I could not get out. Everything else is as smooth and perfect as the day it was painted.
I almost forget. Before I started, I wanted to see every imperfection in the paint so I would only need to do this once. The wife could not understand but I added 4 of the largest shop lights I could find from home depot to the garage.
Now for the canvas, again thanks for your help!
I almost forget. Before I started, I wanted to see every imperfection in the paint so I would only need to do this once. The wife could not understand but I added 4 of the largest shop lights I could find from home depot to the garage.
Now for the canvas, again thanks for your help!
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