Hey gang - talked to the Maguires rep this weekend at the World Of Wheels. Got his thoughts, now I'd like some mf'ers opinions based on your experience.

Got a few minor surface scratches in the clear on my trunk lid. Not very noticeable unless you look in the reflection of light just right. I know they are there so I'm bothered by it Anyone have any likes or dislikes with the Scratch X product applied by hand, or the Step 1 Paint Cleaner product in the red bottle (step 2 is the polish, and step 3 is the wax) when applied with an orbital??

 

Nobody's used either of these products? I'm probably going to go orbital with the 3 step red bottles (Cleaner, Polish, Wax) but was hoping to hear some first hand opinions [&:]

 

I live and die by Scratch X,...if its a fairly light scratch. Unfortunately it cant work miracles. But with some elbow grease, it does a good job. Just remember to throw a new app of wax once you have worked the scratch out the best you can. And I only have done it with an aplicator pad, not a power buffer.

 

HI! I'm new on this site.but my 25 year background in automotivive refinishing may help some.for very minor scatches[not below the clear coat],try wet sandin the scratch area with 3m 2500-3000 sand paper with 3m wet sanding sponge[SOFT ON ONE SIDE/HARD ON THE OTHER SIDE][make sure and sand flat with med pressure]then power buff with a 3m compound sponge pad with 3m buffiing compound[again flat and keep moving]till the sanding marks are gone,then power buff with a 3m glaze sponge pad and 3m glaze[in white or dark grey depending on your paint color]buff to a show room shine,when you think you have it shinning the way you like it,wax with your favorite wax.This may cost you $100 in product but will last for timeand time again,its than refinishing,take your time,be gentle and have fun,its worth it.[ALL PRODUCTS WORK GREAT,ITS JUST I HAVE BEEN USING 3M FOR YEARS WITH GREAT SUCCESS].

 

Fine clear coat scratches can be removed by hand using ScratchX and a foam applicator pad. Proper technique is the key.
Check out this thread on my site and watch the video clip for a good primer on using ScratchX. I apologize it is a teaser for a DVD we are selling, but atleast the clip will give you a good start on where to begin. Most people use ScratchX wrong and don't have satisfactory results.

http://www.showcargarage.com/forums/...read.php?t=138

If you've got a Porter Cable dual action polisher, aka PC, then use that with a foam pad like the W8006 pad from Meguiars and a good paint cleaner like M80 or M83 and you will likely remove the lighter scratches. You might have to make 4 or 5 passes to get them out. If its too deep then you will have to use a rotary buffer and the same chemicals I just described.

I believe the Step 1 Paint Cleaner you are referring to is a chemical cleaner unlike scratchX which has diminishing abrasives--though I'm not 100% certain--I'm not intimate with all the Meguiar's consumer products, so I can't say for sure. If it IS a chemical cleaner, then applying it with a PC/orbital won't be effective since it's cutting action isn't dependent on a buffer.

I just posted a writeup of the steps I took to restore a 1965 Mustang. You can see it here. This was done using only Meguiar's products--no paint was added.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...threadid=11040

BEFORE


AFTER

 

hey...how do you get the scratches and swirls from the headlights? I have a 2000 MUSTANG GT...BLACK ON BLACK IN BLACK! NICE

 

Are the headlights glass or plastic? There are headlight detailing kits depending on the materials.
Plastic is easier to buff out and restore--glass is very hard.