compression check?
04-24-2006, 09:16 PM
#11
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RE: compression check?
yeah its the same plugs,i replaced one cuz one of them got broke when taking it out...it has that bronze look but they are kinda shiny but still brown looking....could be a little shiny cuz they had that oil on them that we put in there....i think the plugs are fine even if not sparking thatgreat
04-24-2006, 09:53 PM
#12
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RE: compression check?
yeah they seem fine......
the color of the plug would of told us if it was burning water since its not that usually rules out cracked head
any water in the oil? what color is the oil?muddy grey brown? or just regular oil?
the color of the plug would of told us if it was burning water since its not that usually rules out cracked head
any water in the oil? what color is the oil?muddy grey brown? or just regular oil?
04-24-2006, 10:15 PM
#13
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RE: compression check?
we put the oil in,it was all drained before we got the motor,but its good still......the compression was like ~30...and it needs what like at least 100 or something to get it to start,so im gonna check the timing one more time not that then it lookslike i got ****ed,either head gasket or idk
04-24-2006, 10:27 PM
#15
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RE: compression check?
it was 350 shipped to texas from illinois,would be a day or two taking it out,prolly like 100 to get it shipped back...damnit,losing 100 bucks and the time to take the old one out,put this one in,take it back out,put a diff one in.....**** im tired of fking with it but prolly what we'll have to do huh.....being 30 wouldnt just be the timing then huh.....prolly is a head,gasket,or block or something eh?
04-24-2006, 10:38 PM
#16
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RE: compression check?
30 is low as ****, something is SERIOUSLY WRONG. Especially because you sealed up the rings with oil too. You need about 50 just to gt a small briggs and stratton to start.
Ok, Now you have identified the problem...kidna sorta, and now you need to find out why. Go to autozone or pepboys and buy the fitting that goes into the plug hole for compressed air. Lisle makes one with 14/18mm threads on ahose for about 10$ and you can get a pair of adapters one for each for about 5$ together. Screw these into the plug hole, crank till its on the compression stroke, hook up to compressed air at about 100psi. Now, you need to do some investigating for air leaks. If the intake valve is leaking, you will hear it in the intake. If the rings are very leaky, you will hear it in the oil dipstick or possible the oil (710 cap hahaha) If none of these, open up the radiator cap and look for any bubbling. or if the coolant overflows the neck. This would indicate a leaky headgasket. Just use common sense in determining where the engine is loosing compression. If its one of the valves pull the valve cover and make sure there is enough valve lash and that the valves appear to be seating correctly(IE one stem is slightly lower than others indicating bent valve)
EDIT... Heres a more gramatically correct version of this that I posted in another thread...
Even with the oil, #7 is still much lower than the other cylinders, in fact, its rings are pretty much where the should be relative to the other cylinders.
Now you need to figure out why the cylinder has such low compression. Compressed air will help in doing this, and I recommend the leakdown tester, but you can getby without it (but if your into high performance its a good tool to have). Either way, you are going to want the cylinder just slightly below TDC, and you will hook up the gauge, pumping in roughly 80-100psi. Check for a possible blown head gasket by hooking up your compression gauge to a neighbooring cylinder. If, when your pressurize the cylinder, the gauge begins to read pressure on your neighbooring cylinder, your head gasket is blown. You will also want to take the radiator cap off and check for bubbles, as this would indicate pressure leaking into the waterjackets (blown head gasket). If the coolant level rises alot but does not bubble, this also means the gasket is leaking, there is justa big bubble trapped. If these two tests show the head gasket is ok, move onto your valves.
When your doing your valves, Listen for air leaking from the intake (you will hear it "swooshing"). If you hear absolutly nothing at all when doing this, Its probably the exhaust valve. Ive never experienced an exhaust valve leaking, so I cant really speak from experience on this one, but Id imagine youd be able to hear it just like you can an intake.
Like I said, just use some common sense to do troubleshooting.
Jim
Ok, Now you have identified the problem...kidna sorta, and now you need to find out why. Go to autozone or pepboys and buy the fitting that goes into the plug hole for compressed air. Lisle makes one with 14/18mm threads on ahose for about 10$ and you can get a pair of adapters one for each for about 5$ together. Screw these into the plug hole, crank till its on the compression stroke, hook up to compressed air at about 100psi. Now, you need to do some investigating for air leaks. If the intake valve is leaking, you will hear it in the intake. If the rings are very leaky, you will hear it in the oil dipstick or possible the oil (710 cap hahaha) If none of these, open up the radiator cap and look for any bubbling. or if the coolant overflows the neck. This would indicate a leaky headgasket. Just use common sense in determining where the engine is loosing compression. If its one of the valves pull the valve cover and make sure there is enough valve lash and that the valves appear to be seating correctly(IE one stem is slightly lower than others indicating bent valve)
EDIT... Heres a more gramatically correct version of this that I posted in another thread...
Even with the oil, #7 is still much lower than the other cylinders, in fact, its rings are pretty much where the should be relative to the other cylinders.
Now you need to figure out why the cylinder has such low compression. Compressed air will help in doing this, and I recommend the leakdown tester, but you can getby without it (but if your into high performance its a good tool to have). Either way, you are going to want the cylinder just slightly below TDC, and you will hook up the gauge, pumping in roughly 80-100psi. Check for a possible blown head gasket by hooking up your compression gauge to a neighbooring cylinder. If, when your pressurize the cylinder, the gauge begins to read pressure on your neighbooring cylinder, your head gasket is blown. You will also want to take the radiator cap off and check for bubbles, as this would indicate pressure leaking into the waterjackets (blown head gasket). If the coolant level rises alot but does not bubble, this also means the gasket is leaking, there is justa big bubble trapped. If these two tests show the head gasket is ok, move onto your valves.
When your doing your valves, Listen for air leaking from the intake (you will hear it "swooshing"). If you hear absolutly nothing at all when doing this, Its probably the exhaust valve. Ive never experienced an exhaust valve leaking, so I cant really speak from experience on this one, but Id imagine youd be able to hear it just like you can an intake.
Like I said, just use some common sense to do troubleshooting.
Jim
04-24-2006, 10:50 PM
#19
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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Posts: 784
RE: compression check?
ORIGINAL: kartracer55
30 is low as ****, something is SERIOUSLY WRONG. Especially because you sealed up the rings with oil too. You need about 50 just to gt a small briggs and stratton to start.
Ok, Now you have identified the problem...kidna sorta, and now you need to find out why. Go to autozone or pepboys and buy the fitting that goes into the plug hole for compressed air. Lisle makes one with 14/18mm threads on ahose for about 10$ and you can get a pair of adapters one for each for about 5$ together. Screw these into the plug hole, crank till its on the compression stroke, hook up to compressed air at about 100psi. Now, you need to do some investigating for air leaks. If the intake valve is leaking, you will hear it in the intake. If the rings are very leaky, you will hear it in the oil dipstick or possible the oil (710 cap hahaha) If none of these, open up the radiator cap and look for any bubbling. or if the coolant overflows the neck. This would indicate a leaky headgasket. Just use common sense in determining where the engine is loosing compression. If its one of the valves pull the valve cover and make sure there is enough valve lash and that the valves appear to be seating correctly(IE one stem is slightly lower than others indicating bent valve)
Like I said, just use some common sense to do troubleshooting.
Jim
30 is low as ****, something is SERIOUSLY WRONG. Especially because you sealed up the rings with oil too. You need about 50 just to gt a small briggs and stratton to start.
Ok, Now you have identified the problem...kidna sorta, and now you need to find out why. Go to autozone or pepboys and buy the fitting that goes into the plug hole for compressed air. Lisle makes one with 14/18mm threads on ahose for about 10$ and you can get a pair of adapters one for each for about 5$ together. Screw these into the plug hole, crank till its on the compression stroke, hook up to compressed air at about 100psi. Now, you need to do some investigating for air leaks. If the intake valve is leaking, you will hear it in the intake. If the rings are very leaky, you will hear it in the oil dipstick or possible the oil (710 cap hahaha) If none of these, open up the radiator cap and look for any bubbling. or if the coolant overflows the neck. This would indicate a leaky headgasket. Just use common sense in determining where the engine is loosing compression. If its one of the valves pull the valve cover and make sure there is enough valve lash and that the valves appear to be seating correctly(IE one stem is slightly lower than others indicating bent valve)
Like I said, just use some common sense to do troubleshooting.
Jim
awesome advice
porche man thats alot of **** you would have to deal with to get it out and shipped and whatnot
