So Motorcraft AGSF-22C 1 heat range colder is what I want? I dont need retuned spark map with these do I.They are for daily driving and dont need to come out?

 

Heck, get the OE replacement (Autolite or Motorcraft) from Wal-Mart if you want. They'll work fine in a stock engine. No need to waste your engine or play around with heat ranges. Ford already researched which plugs work best for the engine they put in your Stang.

 

I dont know about plug types, but I though I would just mention that when you screw in the new plug,
turn it by hand untill it is hand tight before useing a socket. You have a better chance of not cross threading
the plug into the head. I have had several used cars where the previous owner cross threaded the plug into the head.
It makes changing the plug very painful.
I have also had a plug get blown out of an aluminum head on a Probe. I was idling at the time.
I figure that the plug unscrewd itself or it was cross threaded and blew out.
Any way. If you careful, Changing the plugs are easy if you can get to them.
Good luck

 

I have a standard gt2002 auto transmisson 4.6L. I was happy when i take this car but i didnt satisfied with the performance ...even icant catch the Lumina s..i cheked my car with the dealer the report was passitive,,so wats the problem?? is this muscle car??[]

 

I dont want to get into the debate, but SnapOn make a great spark plug cleaner for 20 bucks, hook it up to a air hose, push the button, good as new.

 

I am still new here and haven't had time to upgrade my profile as of yet but I had something to add that you may want to know. I always change the spark plugs in my 01 GT and to be able to unsrew the coil screw and pull the boot off the spark plug, you will need to pull the fuel rail up off the top of the injectors a little bit to be able to pull the coil off the plug. Its not that hard. Just make sure your engine is cooled down because when you do this, the gas in the line will leak out. Also, sometimes the O ring on the top of the injectors stick up in the rail. You will want to get them out and put them back on top of the injectors before you push the rail back onto them. Thats how I do it anyway, not sure if thats the best way but I can do it pretty quick. Hope that helps.

 

One important fact I didn't see mentioned!!!!! If you are changing wires and plugs, make sure to do 1 at a time. That way you don't get your firing order mixed up. Unless of course you have a diagram in front of you. But still a pain in the a$$ and time consuming to follow the diagram.

 

1. Go down one heat range for f/i or if you spend a lot of time above 3k.
2. Copper is cheaper but wears out quicker than exotic metal plugs (but it will not explode under extreme heat cycles like some exotics)
3. You do not have to remove the rail. You will need to unplug the injector next to the coil to remove it.

It is a simple job just take your time, clean out the holes, and be sure to press the coils all the way on (don't use the bolt to pull them down). Use anti-seize or never seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the posts. It only takes about a half hour to do.