changing plugs please help
11-10-2006, 07:42 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 30
changing plugs please help
I wanted to change plugs I have A 2001 gt na. Is it easy to do your self or should I bring it to someone and have it done? I wanted NGK Platinums TR55(P) So if I got them would any tune place put them in or are they gonna say I nead to use there plugs. thanks for the help 
11-10-2006, 10:27 AM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 211
RE: changing plugs please help
Well, you gonna need some tools:
Plug socket
6 or 10 inch ratchet extension
A ratchet
8 or 10mm socket or wrench
You can get away with buying a nice tool set at PepBoys for around 15 to 40 bucks, an extension and a plug socket. Its well worth it.
Changing plugs is simple and you should do it yourself. Buy two bags of silicon electric grease and plug grease. Take a look at your engine, you should see 8 coils, you will have to take a coil out to access the plug. It is easy and self explanatory, all you have to do is look at it. Be careful when removing connector to the coil, they are easy to brake, if its possible leave it in.
Then take the plug out, if it looks dirty in there, clean it up using a vacuum, air pressure, or whatever you can find. A shop will not do this step for you, thats why it pays to do it yourself. The idea is not to let crap get into your cylinders. Unscrew the plug using ratchet, extension, and plug socket (um, make sure extension has correct drive for socket and ratchet). Its righty tighty, lefty loosey. Pull out plug and examine it. If you have Haynes manual, it will have a page with different plug conditions, compare.
Take a new plug, dial in the gap, put some plug grease on threads, and screw it in. Grease should be very little and on top threads only, the idea is not to get any into combustion chambers. Plug should not fall or touch anything with its gap, if it does, regap. A shop mechanic will not regap if he drops the plug into cylinder, instead of lowering it.
Screw it in, just hand tight, dont over tighted.
You done, go to the next plug.
Id go with copper plugs, OEM, one head range colder.
Plug socket
6 or 10 inch ratchet extension
A ratchet
8 or 10mm socket or wrench
You can get away with buying a nice tool set at PepBoys for around 15 to 40 bucks, an extension and a plug socket. Its well worth it.
Changing plugs is simple and you should do it yourself. Buy two bags of silicon electric grease and plug grease. Take a look at your engine, you should see 8 coils, you will have to take a coil out to access the plug. It is easy and self explanatory, all you have to do is look at it. Be careful when removing connector to the coil, they are easy to brake, if its possible leave it in.
Then take the plug out, if it looks dirty in there, clean it up using a vacuum, air pressure, or whatever you can find. A shop will not do this step for you, thats why it pays to do it yourself. The idea is not to let crap get into your cylinders. Unscrew the plug using ratchet, extension, and plug socket (um, make sure extension has correct drive for socket and ratchet). Its righty tighty, lefty loosey. Pull out plug and examine it. If you have Haynes manual, it will have a page with different plug conditions, compare.
Take a new plug, dial in the gap, put some plug grease on threads, and screw it in. Grease should be very little and on top threads only, the idea is not to get any into combustion chambers. Plug should not fall or touch anything with its gap, if it does, regap. A shop mechanic will not regap if he drops the plug into cylinder, instead of lowering it.
Screw it in, just hand tight, dont over tighted.
You done, go to the next plug.
Id go with copper plugs, OEM, one head range colder.
11-10-2006, 01:21 PM
#3
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 95
RE: changing plugs please help
I agree... whenever possible, do it yourself, especially since it will cost you a fraction of what it will be to take it to the shop. Besides, you will get a real sense of ownership the more you work on your own car, and a greater understanding of how it does what it does. Just make sure you have the right tools, and get yourself a manual, such as Haynes or Chiltons. They come in handy.
11-10-2006, 01:30 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 211
RE: changing plugs please help
And one more thing that I forgot to mention (because I dont work on stang that much, its new). Get a special rubber apron or whatever they call it, so you can put it on your fender. Get a pair of working gloves, hand wipes and that hand cleaning sope - made of citrus. Once you work on your car, dont touch the paint, or the inside with dirty hands. Keep your hands in the air and away from car, the more you touch it, the worth it will look.
The difference between a DIY mechanic and a pro is cleanliness.
The above is very important, dont miss that step.
The difference between a DIY mechanic and a pro is cleanliness.
The above is very important, dont miss that step.
11-11-2006, 05:23 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 30
RE: changing plugs please help
Thanks for the help I will try it my self 
You said you would go with OEM one head range copper plugs. Is it because they cost less or will they make my car run better?thanks again for all your help 
You said you would go with OEM one head range copper plugs. Is it because they cost less or will they make my car run better?thanks again for all your help
11-11-2006, 02:00 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 211
RE: changing plugs please help
Well, there is a saying that copper conducts electricity better. BUT, changes in performance are so low they are negligible, because they can not be measured. Copper offers better performance for you, cheaper too. Things such as platinum, or iridium are only good when you need them, you dont need them.
Think of this like so, racers use OEM copper plugs. I do too, I have no need for anything else.
OEM plug PNs
one heat range colder than stock AWSF-22C
two heat ranges colder than stock AWSFA-12C
C is for copper, these part numbers are for stock NA 46 engines
Go one heat range colder if you an average led foot with stock CR and timing map
Go two heat ranges colder if you an average led foot with altered CR and/or timing map
Think of this like so, racers use OEM copper plugs. I do too, I have no need for anything else.
OEM plug PNs
one heat range colder than stock AWSF-22C
two heat ranges colder than stock AWSFA-12C
C is for copper, these part numbers are for stock NA 46 engines
Go one heat range colder if you an average led foot with stock CR and timing map
Go two heat ranges colder if you an average led foot with altered CR and/or timing map
11-11-2006, 07:02 PM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location:
Posts: 4,089
RE: changing plugs please help
For a stock engine, use OEM replacement plugs. No need to do any messing around with heat ranges if you're stock.
The plugs are easy to change yourself, provided you have some technical skill. There is a torque value for plugs...definitely don't just hand tighten them as they will back themselves out.
Two very important things with aluminum headed engines like the 4.6L. 1) Always make sure the engine is cooled down before replacing plugs. 2) Use anti-sieze on the threads of the plugs (DO NOT USE GREASE).
For any engine, use dielectric grease on the spark plug boots to prevent them from sticking and prevent moisture from getting in.
The plugs are easy to change yourself, provided you have some technical skill. There is a torque value for plugs...definitely don't just hand tighten them as they will back themselves out.
Two very important things with aluminum headed engines like the 4.6L. 1) Always make sure the engine is cooled down before replacing plugs. 2) Use anti-sieze on the threads of the plugs (DO NOT USE GREASE).
For any engine, use dielectric grease on the spark plug boots to prevent them from sticking and prevent moisture from getting in.
ORIGINAL: kenseth17
I wanted to change plugs I have A 2001 gt na. Is it easy to do your self or should I bring it to someone and have it done? I wanted NGK Platinums TR55(P) So if I got them would any tune place put them in or are they gonna say I nead to use there plugs. thanks for the help
I wanted to change plugs I have A 2001 gt na. Is it easy to do your self or should I bring it to someone and have it done? I wanted NGK Platinums TR55(P) So if I got them would any tune place put them in or are they gonna say I nead to use there plugs. thanks for the help
11-11-2006, 07:27 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 211
RE: changing plugs please help
ORIGINAL: Colorado_Mustang
For a stock engine, use OEM replacement plugs. No need to do any messing around with heat ranges if you're stock.
The plugs are easy to change yourself, provided you have some technical skill. There is a torque value for plugs...definitely don't just hand tighten them as they will back themselves out.
Two very important things with aluminum headed engines like the 4.6L. 1) Always make sure the engine is cooled down before replacing plugs. 2) Use anti-sieze on the threads of the plugs (DO NOT USE GREASE).
For any engine, use dielectric grease on the spark plug boots to prevent them from sticking and prevent moisture from getting in.
For a stock engine, use OEM replacement plugs. No need to do any messing around with heat ranges if you're stock.
The plugs are easy to change yourself, provided you have some technical skill. There is a torque value for plugs...definitely don't just hand tighten them as they will back themselves out.
Two very important things with aluminum headed engines like the 4.6L. 1) Always make sure the engine is cooled down before replacing plugs. 2) Use anti-sieze on the threads of the plugs (DO NOT USE GREASE).
For any engine, use dielectric grease on the spark plug boots to prevent them from sticking and prevent moisture from getting in.
Mess with heat ranges if you are a led foot. This allows better heat extraction out of CC, thus your engine parts will last longer, and it will be harder to overheat.
Torq wrench is a little excessive for the plugs, and pricey. Hand tightening works the best. The idea is not to damage head threads, plugs dont usually come right out.
This is a myth.Anti-sieze grease, or spark plug grease is the same damn thing. In your local parts store it is called spark plug grease.
First of all spark plugs dont have boots, plug wires have boots. And no, you dont just put grease on the plug, it goes on and around electrode on plug wire or coil over. There is a reason for that, and Im not telling why.
This guy is reffering to ceramic isolator part of the plug, he suggests to put grease on it. That is not where it goes for christ's sake!
Changing plugs is the easiest thing to do. While racing we check and sometimes check on them between runs, yes, with aluninum heads, nice and hot. Not recommended for novice.
11-11-2006, 07:56 PM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location:
Posts: 4,089
RE: changing plugs please help
Ford spent a lot more money than you'll ever see designing this engine...and they know a lot more than you ever will. Stock plugs for stock engines.
Every fastener on an engine has a torque rating for tightening. Hand tight spark plugs fall out. Not a myth, it's reality. Any fastener without a locking insert or thread lock will loosen on an engine. Engines vibrate quite a bit and that will loosen just about anything.
Anti-Sieze is what the containers say. High temp anti-sieze is another thing it will say. Dielectric grease is completely different. Anti-sieze goes on the THREADS of the plug...no where else. Toss some on the electrode if you want to change your plugs again.
The PI 4.6L does not have wires. The boots are called spark plug boots. It's a boot that goes over the spark plug. It requires a dielectric grease to prevent it from sticking to the plug. The dielectric part is important. It goes in the boot as you slide it over the plug.
The coefficient of expansion between aluminum and steel is significant and can destroy the threads in the heads when messed with at high temperatures.
Race engines should have steel thread inserts instead of aluminum threads...and they are rebuild a lot more frequently than any street engine.
Every fastener on an engine has a torque rating for tightening. Hand tight spark plugs fall out. Not a myth, it's reality. Any fastener without a locking insert or thread lock will loosen on an engine. Engines vibrate quite a bit and that will loosen just about anything.
Anti-Sieze is what the containers say. High temp anti-sieze is another thing it will say. Dielectric grease is completely different. Anti-sieze goes on the THREADS of the plug...no where else. Toss some on the electrode if you want to change your plugs again.
The PI 4.6L does not have wires. The boots are called spark plug boots. It's a boot that goes over the spark plug. It requires a dielectric grease to prevent it from sticking to the plug. The dielectric part is important. It goes in the boot as you slide it over the plug.
The coefficient of expansion between aluminum and steel is significant and can destroy the threads in the heads when messed with at high temperatures.
Race engines should have steel thread inserts instead of aluminum threads...and they are rebuild a lot more frequently than any street engine.
ORIGINAL: shifterdelux
Mess with heat ranges if you are a led foot. This allows better heat extraction out of CC, thus your engine parts will last longer, and it will be harder to overheat.
Torq wrench is a little excessive for the plugs, and pricey. Hand tightening works the best. The idea is not to damage head threads, plugs dont usually come right out. This is a myth.
Anti-sieze grease, or spark plug grease is the same damn thing. In your local parts store it is called spark plug grease.
First of all spark plugs dont have boots, plug wires have boots. And no, you dont just put grease on the plug, it goes on and around electrode on plug wire or coil over. There is a reason for that, and Im not telling why.
This guy is reffering to ceramic isolator part of the plug, he suggests to put grease on it. That is not where it goes for christ's sake!
Changing plugs is the easiest thing to do. While racing we check and sometimes check on them between runs, yes, with aluninum heads, nice and hot. Not recommended for novice.
Mess with heat ranges if you are a led foot. This allows better heat extraction out of CC, thus your engine parts will last longer, and it will be harder to overheat.
Torq wrench is a little excessive for the plugs, and pricey. Hand tightening works the best. The idea is not to damage head threads, plugs dont usually come right out.
This is a myth.Anti-sieze grease, or spark plug grease is the same damn thing. In your local parts store it is called spark plug grease.
First of all spark plugs dont have boots, plug wires have boots. And no, you dont just put grease on the plug, it goes on and around electrode on plug wire or coil over. There is a reason for that, and Im not telling why.
This guy is reffering to ceramic isolator part of the plug, he suggests to put grease on it. That is not where it goes for christ's sake!
Changing plugs is the easiest thing to do. While racing we check and sometimes check on them between runs, yes, with aluninum heads, nice and hot. Not recommended for novice.