roll bar
ORIGINAL: mdvaldosta
id'd be fine as far as comfort, its just getting back there over / under the bar thats the problem. oh yea, and not wanting to bust your head on the bar if you get in a wreck
id'd be fine as far as comfort, its just getting back there over / under the bar thats the problem. oh yea, and not wanting to bust your head on the bar if you get in a wreck
and yes Joe you're right about the NHRA rule change, they lowered the requirement for a roll bar, not cage, down to 11.49 to encourage more street racers to come off the streets and out to the track. if you still decide to get one, make damn sure buy or get one built and installed to the NHRA/IHRA specs so you don't have to go through changing it out if you do it wrong the first time. Chrome moly tubing is much lighter than DOM steel tubing, but costs more and must be TIG welded also. Prices vary tremendously also, I've seen steel 8 point bars advertised for as low as $150 and as high as $400+, so shop around for the best deal but make sure you get one that is purpose built to fit your body, not an all purpose one size fits all bar that doesn't really fit all models.
and jd, the 8.8 rear and axles are stronger than most people give them credit for too. unless you have lots of mods and HP, you can launch with slicks on the stock axles and not be too concerned with breakage, but be aware that the NHRA/IHRA rule book says you must have a driveshaft safety loop and C-clip eliminators to run slicks at the strip.
id'd be fine as far as comfort, its just getting back there over / under the bar thats the problem. oh yea, and not wanting to bust your head on the bar if you get in a wreck
ORIGINAL: mdvaldosta
id'd be fine as far as comfort, its just getting back there over / under the bar thats the problem. oh yea, and not wanting to bust your head on the bar if you get in a wreck
id'd be fine as far as comfort, its just getting back there over / under the bar thats the problem. oh yea, and not wanting to bust your head on the bar if you get in a wreck
that's why they make helmets there Joe! and require them if you run quicker than 14 seconds! which is sooner than they require the roll bar, so if you've got the helmet, why worry about the bar???
[quote]ORIGINAL: mdvaldosta
who is his right mind ever expects "comfort" in the back seat of a pony car??? LOL
get a girlfriend then you will know why you need comfort in the backseat
who is his right mind ever expects "comfort" in the back seat of a pony car??? LOL
get a girlfriend then you will know why you need comfort in the backseat
You'll find with 'real' slicks that it's much easier to be really consistent also. I'd go ahead and use them after I did a 'C' clip eliminater kit and the hoop and not worry a lot about rear axles breaking........
it's what holds the axles into the differential housing on stock Stang rear ends. if the axle twists and breaks at the splines which is the weakest link, the whole wheel/tire combo with axle can walk right out of the rear end housing making a mess of the body work on that side of the car. this is why the sanctioned strips require C-clip eliminator kits if you run on slicks.
ORIGINAL: roundman
that's why they make helmets there Joe! and require them if you run quicker than 14 seconds! which is sooner than they require the roll bar, so if you've got the helmet, why worry about the bar???
ORIGINAL: mdvaldosta
id'd be fine as far as comfort, its just getting back there over / under the bar thats the problem. oh yea, and not wanting to bust your head on the bar if you get in a wreck
id'd be fine as far as comfort, its just getting back there over / under the bar thats the problem. oh yea, and not wanting to bust your head on the bar if you get in a wreck


