The timing is fine, they checked it when I had a diagonstic, they told me to replace the coil, and I did and it still wont fire.

I think its something with the ignition or something to do with it. I replaced the ignition switch and it still didnt fire.[>:]

 

I can't remember what year they stopped using the resistor bypass on the seloniod, it used to be that when you turned the key to crank the car, the voltage would drop from the starter pulling the amps, this would in turn cuase the resistor wire or block for the coil to have to low of voltage to start the car, to fix this they put a resistor bypass wire going from the starter solenoid going to the coil. (this also made it very easy to hotwire a ford) anyway if the contact on the solenoid got burnt or the wire had come off the car would not start.
The funny thing was that sometimes when you would stop cranking the engine over, for that split second the key would go back to the on position while the car was on a compression stroke and the car would almost start,


A shot in the dark but you might want to check the solenoid, you can easily run a wire from the positive side of thebattery to the positve side of the coil, and then crank the engine, if it starts there is your problem. Good luck

EDIT: I think they stopped using this before your car was manufactured not sure though.

 

Dude!!!! Thanks alot man, I get exactly what your talking about I am gonna go try that right now!!!! thanks a bunch, i'll tell you if it works!!

 

Well it didnt work. My neighbor(slightly good mechanic) said the distributer might be off. If its true, how would I manage fixing that and getting it back where its supposed to?

And DesertMach, thanks, that was some good thinkin there, but you were right, they didnt make that for my car.

 

If the distributor is off, put the engine at top dead center on the compression stroke for the number 1 cyclendar, then pull the dist cap off and see which plug wirethe rotor points to( it should be the number one plug) if not you can either change the postion of the wires on the cap to have the correct firing order using that as the new number 1 position, or you can pull the distributor out and turn the rotor to the correct location for the number one cyclender. this is called cold timing the engine.

 

Ive tried somethingkinda like that, but I still do not understand how to see if you are at your compression stroke?? Any pointers

 

I still need some help!!! Still wont start

 

The way I usually find the compression stroke is pull the number 1 plug out, then put your finger in the plug hole and have someone bump the key while your finger is in the spark plug hole, as the engine is coming up on the compression stroke you will feel the compreesion building, on that stroke just line up the timing marks for TDC.