all 4 rotors crossdrilled and slotted for 275 BUCKS!!! Can't beat it! http://www.stangsuspension.com/store...idCategory=150

 

Read, reread and read again. You guys might learn something

Cross-Drilled /Slotted Rotors
The second thing you can do to improve your brake performance is often to go to a larger rotor. We all know that this gives the rotor further ability to dissipate heat away from the pads through itself and through the air (conductive and convective heat transfer). It also increases the effective radius of the force acting on the rotor. Since actual brake torque equals force of pistons* effective radius * coefficient of friction of the pad. So obviously a larger pad, a larger rotor, or both result in better brake performance by avoiding brake fade. It is also obvious that a larger rotor will give you a larger brake torque (stopping force). But what about cross drilled or slotted rotors? Well the common belief in the main stream is that somehow slotted or cross-drilled rotors allow for better performance by handling heat. This is 100 percent false. The individuals involved in such fallacies mention that air through the holes works to cool the rotor (convective heat transfer into the air from the rotor). The issue is that from physics we know that metal transfers heat better then air by a significant amount. (The larger mass of the rotor becomes more important then the larger surface area of the rotor in any situation other then the optimal. Cross drilling is not an optimal manner of creating metal to air transfer through larger surface areas. There is not much airflow through the holes.) As such the rotor begins to work as a heat sink. Now by cross drilling or slotting we are decreasing the overall amount of metal to transfer this heat to. Clearly we are decreasing performance of the rotor to dissipate heat amongst itself. We are also damaging the brakes structural rigidity. The iron in a brake rotor is made of a crystalline structure. By drilling holes in said surface we cut the end grains creating a situation that breeds cracks. Furthermore, even if we were to cut the rotors correctly to avoid cutting the end grains structural rigidity is still decreased. The temperature around the holes will be slightly less then that of the entire rotor leading to temperature stress. Moreover, the decreased mass will result in lowered rigidity. Lastly, the holes of a cross-drilled rotor decrease the area of the pad that contacts the rotor. This concentrates the heat more on certain areas of the pad (similar to the idea of using a smaller pad where the pad heats up more quickly).
So what do cross drilled and slotted rotors accomplish? Well cross-drilled does not do anything for a car but perhaps give you a certain bling look. In a motorcycle or other extremely light vehicle the decrease in rotational inertia and unsprung mass might perhaps be useful (once other more efficient avenues are exhausted). However, in a street car or race car the speeds and weight of such vehicles will make the relatively miniscule decrease be outweighed by the need for more heat dissipation.
Slotted rotors meanwhile serve a few purposes. The main original purpose of a slotted rotor was to vent gases that buildup between the pads and the rotors. However, this reasoning is no longer valid. As the years have gone by pads have been designed that produce very little gas. Furthermore many pads come with groves in themselves that allow for the removal of any minor gas that is created. So does that mean that slotted rotors fall to the same fate as cross-drilled? Well, no. A slotted rotor always decreases the rotors capability to dissipate heat amongst itself, but they have their applications. A slotted rotor will clean off the brake pad as it passes the slots. As such it works really well for rally and dirt tracks. Furthermore, the slots themselves can serve to wipe off the top layer of glaze that tends to appear on your brake pads. Some racers say this last part is beneficial while others question whether the slots will fill before the deglaze affect is ever helpful. I have yet to determine the answer to this question. The answer of slotted brake usefulness seems to lie with whether the benefit of cleaning the pads outstrips the loss in heat dissipation. This question depends on your application.



And after all that crap just remember your brakes are only as good as the tire that contact the road. If you can lock them up now with out a proplem bigger brakes are only gonna make that worse. Your not stopping when the tires are locked your sliding.

 

Thanks Emann0007 that is a good link, i think that i might just get their cobra upgrade kit that is a great price for the kit, and a lot cheeper that i was looking at for the baer breaks [sm=goodidea.gif]

 

Diver did you not read the post above yours? Let me explain it with out the big long paragraph:



Crossdrilled rotors are useless


They are for nothing more then show. Now that I have explained that please feel free to enjoy something knowing you have just wasted your money on.

 

Thanks for the clarification (but i did not need it, i did understand what you posted), now if you look at the cobra up-grade package, they come with rotors that are not crossdrilled or slotted, so i will be spending my money on something that works without the flash of being crossdrilled and slotted!!!!![sm=closed.gif]

 

[sm=owned.gif]

J/K.... I have a question for you though... If not upgrading to a larger rotor, because it is expensive... you think that changing to OEM sized crossdrilled/slotted rotors actually decrease braking performance compared to stock rotors? Not trying to argue with ya here, cause I don't know much about brakes.. Just the concept and basic idea, but why would expensive performance driven brands like Baer offer nearly all of their brakes in crossdrilled/slotted form if they decrease performance???? [sm=dontgetit.gif]

 

They sell them as slotted and cross drilled because you the consmer do not know the differnce. Why would they tell you when they can make a extra 200 dollars on the rotor.

Like I said before if you can lock them up now you dont need bigger brakes you need more tire. If you can get tires on your car that dont lock up then start looking into brakes.


Got off the question there so to answer it yes it would decrease performance. By how much dotn know. Mght not be much, but once you start heating that rotor up you are going to notice brake fade alot faster as a drolled cannot dissapate heat as fast as a solid rotor.

 

I went with 13" Baer-claws in the front (Cobra pads), and 13" Baer rotors in the back (stock caliper/pads).

Stops REALLY well, not too much $$

http://www.baer.com/Products/BrakeSy...Claw/Track.JPG