putting a 5.0 in and taking a 3.3 out
11-26-2008, 09:09 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 10
putting a 5.0 in and taking a 3.3 out
so i just recently bought a 5.0 and i want to take my lame 3.3 out and put in my sexy 5.0. I'm really new to this all as this will be my first major project so i need all you experienced peoples knowledge to help me out. its an 81 body with the stock 3.3 with a c4. i need to get a list of parts that i need to make this switch possible. it is an 82 5.0. its got cobra manifolds, plugs, wires, msd cap and rotor. i know that i need a timing chain cover, oil pan, and water pump, but have little idea as to the rest
thanks
thanks
11-27-2008, 07:57 AM
#2
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 12
I have done this before
I swapped a 3.3 200 inline six out for a 5.0 H0 i converted to carburated
The 3.3 k member is an oddball but I'll tell you how you make it work
use 302 motor mounts from a 1980 f150, bolt them in the rear holes of the k member but leave them loose
you can drop a 302 straight in with the transmission you have already got just need to change the bell and converter of course.
The advantage using the I6 k member with a v8 is that it puts your motor as low and far back as it can possibly be , with a set of v8 coil springs "I got mine from a 1979 v8 fairmont wagon" the car will ride at normal height and handle well
for the record the 302 v8 is only 80 pounds heavier then the 200 I6 , No its not mandatory to use the v8 coils but i do recommend it,
Warning! you have to cut 4 inches off the drivers side of the k member to install your oil filter. I did not know this until I had my motor in but was easily able to cut it off with the motor installed. This is the only modification I encountered but remember after you cut that ear off your not able to use a 200 ever again with that k member
I used my same tranny lines of course and the 200 I6 rad has been sufficient in cooling the 302 but if you can find a larger cored rad i would get it.
I have 3 inch headman tube headers and I got them to clear barely but the stock manifolds or shorty headers are easy fit
I don't know if you plan on building your engine but I have to be honest with you , Mine is slightly modified and pushing around 225 hp I blow c4 trannies out like it aint sh*t you may want to consider a 5 speed conversion or upgrade to a HP robbing C6
the C6 is my choice personally because my selector is on the column "don't ask" and I live in my car so a stick isn't so practical for everyday driving IMO
but It looks like it takes a bit of finangling and a sledge hammer to get a c6 or a A4od to fit the tranny tunnel
also crossmember may have to be moved /re welded and of course slight transmission line modification , selector modification and last but not least a yoke change and drive shaft cut.
none of the mentioned procedures is a big deal alone but collectivly become a pain in the ***.
I'm sorry for this not being very organized but writing isnt my strongest point if you have a question let me know.
The 3.3 k member is an oddball but I'll tell you how you make it work
use 302 motor mounts from a 1980 f150, bolt them in the rear holes of the k member but leave them loose
you can drop a 302 straight in with the transmission you have already got just need to change the bell and converter of course.
The advantage using the I6 k member with a v8 is that it puts your motor as low and far back as it can possibly be , with a set of v8 coil springs "I got mine from a 1979 v8 fairmont wagon" the car will ride at normal height and handle well
for the record the 302 v8 is only 80 pounds heavier then the 200 I6 , No its not mandatory to use the v8 coils but i do recommend it,
Warning! you have to cut 4 inches off the drivers side of the k member to install your oil filter. I did not know this until I had my motor in but was easily able to cut it off with the motor installed. This is the only modification I encountered but remember after you cut that ear off your not able to use a 200 ever again with that k member
I used my same tranny lines of course and the 200 I6 rad has been sufficient in cooling the 302 but if you can find a larger cored rad i would get it.
I have 3 inch headman tube headers and I got them to clear barely but the stock manifolds or shorty headers are easy fit
I don't know if you plan on building your engine but I have to be honest with you , Mine is slightly modified and pushing around 225 hp I blow c4 trannies out like it aint sh*t you may want to consider a 5 speed conversion or upgrade to a HP robbing C6
the C6 is my choice personally because my selector is on the column "don't ask" and I live in my car so a stick isn't so practical for everyday driving IMO
but It looks like it takes a bit of finangling and a sledge hammer to get a c6 or a A4od to fit the tranny tunnel
also crossmember may have to be moved /re welded and of course slight transmission line modification , selector modification and last but not least a yoke change and drive shaft cut.
none of the mentioned procedures is a big deal alone but collectivly become a pain in the ***.
I'm sorry for this not being very organized but writing isnt my strongest point if you have a question let me know.
Last edited by John84swpa; 11-27-2008 at 08:02 AM.
11-27-2008, 11:43 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 10
thanks for all that so now what i need to know is like where to get the bellhousing, is it easiest to find it on used cars or can i find a fairly cheap one new? and what about the vacuum lines any clues on how to get all that set up?
11-28-2008, 01:28 AM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: KY
Posts: 13,396
I swapped a 3.3 200 inline six out for a 5.0 H0 i converted to carburated
The 3.3 k member is an oddball but I'll tell you how you make it work
use 302 motor mounts from a 1980 f150, bolt them in the rear holes of the k member but leave them loose
you can drop a 302 straight in with the transmission you have already got just need to change the bell and converter of course.
The advantage using the I6 k member with a v8 is that it puts your motor as low and far back as it can possibly be , with a set of v8 coil springs "I got mine from a 1979 v8 fairmont wagon" the car will ride at normal height and handle well
for the record the 302 v8 is only 80 pounds heavier then the 200 I6 , No its not mandatory to use the v8 coils but i do recommend it,
Warning! you have to cut 4 inches off the drivers side of the k member to install your oil filter. I did not know this until I had my motor in but was easily able to cut it off with the motor installed. This is the only modification I encountered but remember after you cut that ear off your not able to use a 200 ever again with that k member
I used my same tranny lines of course and the 200 I6 rad has been sufficient in cooling the 302 but if you can find a larger cored rad i would get it.
I have 3 inch headman tube headers and I got them to clear barely but the stock manifolds or shorty headers are easy fit
I don't know if you plan on building your engine but I have to be honest with you , Mine is slightly modified and pushing around 225 hp I blow c4 trannies out like it aint sh*t you may want to consider a 5 speed conversion or upgrade to a HP robbing C6
the C6 is my choice personally because my selector is on the column "don't ask" and I live in my car so a stick isn't so practical for everyday driving IMO
but It looks like it takes a bit of finangling and a sledge hammer to get a c6 or a A4od to fit the tranny tunnel
also crossmember may have to be moved /re welded and of course slight transmission line modification , selector modification and last but not least a yoke change and drive shaft cut.
none of the mentioned procedures is a big deal alone but collectivly become a pain in the ***.
I'm sorry for this not being very organized but writing isnt my strongest point if you have a question let me know.
The 3.3 k member is an oddball but I'll tell you how you make it work
use 302 motor mounts from a 1980 f150, bolt them in the rear holes of the k member but leave them loose
you can drop a 302 straight in with the transmission you have already got just need to change the bell and converter of course.
The advantage using the I6 k member with a v8 is that it puts your motor as low and far back as it can possibly be , with a set of v8 coil springs "I got mine from a 1979 v8 fairmont wagon" the car will ride at normal height and handle well
for the record the 302 v8 is only 80 pounds heavier then the 200 I6 , No its not mandatory to use the v8 coils but i do recommend it,
Warning! you have to cut 4 inches off the drivers side of the k member to install your oil filter. I did not know this until I had my motor in but was easily able to cut it off with the motor installed. This is the only modification I encountered but remember after you cut that ear off your not able to use a 200 ever again with that k member
I used my same tranny lines of course and the 200 I6 rad has been sufficient in cooling the 302 but if you can find a larger cored rad i would get it.
I have 3 inch headman tube headers and I got them to clear barely but the stock manifolds or shorty headers are easy fit
I don't know if you plan on building your engine but I have to be honest with you , Mine is slightly modified and pushing around 225 hp I blow c4 trannies out like it aint sh*t you may want to consider a 5 speed conversion or upgrade to a HP robbing C6
the C6 is my choice personally because my selector is on the column "don't ask" and I live in my car so a stick isn't so practical for everyday driving IMO
but It looks like it takes a bit of finangling and a sledge hammer to get a c6 or a A4od to fit the tranny tunnel
also crossmember may have to be moved /re welded and of course slight transmission line modification , selector modification and last but not least a yoke change and drive shaft cut.
none of the mentioned procedures is a big deal alone but collectivly become a pain in the ***.
I'm sorry for this not being very organized but writing isnt my strongest point if you have a question let me know.
11-28-2008, 04:23 AM
#5
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 12
If you have the money yeah you could build a c4 or buy a street fighter or something like that but its going to cost you a pretty penny.
an affordable option that can be had under 250 dollars anyday is the c6, you cant beat it's strength , and the bell is already casted to the tranny so your not out looking for that.
As for the OP you can find the v8 C4 bell and converter a dime a dozen , If you have a "you pull it" type junk yard its your best bet ,they cost about $100 dollars for the whole tranny here. You can get them out of fox body LTD ,Country Squire, Grand Marquise, T birds , Futura, Fairmont , Zephers , Mustang and Capri Also Mavericks , Comets , Granadas, Pinto , bobcat, the list goes on and on
I even believe you can find a c4 in some 80's series light duty pick up trucks but Iv never seen it personally,
You could EBAY/Craigslist
If you got the cash and all else fails Summit Racing has all the parts youd ever need but plan on paying about $400-$500 for a new bell and new convertor.
And as for vacuum lines You only need 4 that I can think of if your using a carbed motor
Vacuum advance "goes to carb"
PVC "its a little bigger hose it goes to carb"
Transmission modulator line "goes to intake on mine"
Brake booster "goes to intake on mine its the biggest vac hose"
depending which intake and carb you have this information maybe slightly different
an affordable option that can be had under 250 dollars anyday is the c6, you cant beat it's strength , and the bell is already casted to the tranny so your not out looking for that.
As for the OP you can find the v8 C4 bell and converter a dime a dozen , If you have a "you pull it" type junk yard its your best bet ,they cost about $100 dollars for the whole tranny here. You can get them out of fox body LTD ,Country Squire, Grand Marquise, T birds , Futura, Fairmont , Zephers , Mustang and Capri Also Mavericks , Comets , Granadas, Pinto , bobcat, the list goes on and on
I even believe you can find a c4 in some 80's series light duty pick up trucks but Iv never seen it personally,
You could EBAY/Craigslist
If you got the cash and all else fails Summit Racing has all the parts youd ever need but plan on paying about $400-$500 for a new bell and new convertor.
And as for vacuum lines You only need 4 that I can think of if your using a carbed motor
Vacuum advance "goes to carb"
PVC "its a little bigger hose it goes to carb"
Transmission modulator line "goes to intake on mine"
Brake booster "goes to intake on mine its the biggest vac hose"
depending which intake and carb you have this information maybe slightly different
Last edited by John84swpa; 11-28-2008 at 04:43 AM.
11-28-2008, 05:43 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 10
so i found this bellhousing and since i know just about nothing about them i was wondering if anyone could tell me if this would be something i could use
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
11-29-2008, 02:36 AM
#7
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 12
Yep
so i found this bellhousing and since i know just about nothing about them i was wondering if anyone could tell me if this would be something i could use
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Thats the one you want and thats not a horrible price at all
you could buy a whole tranny for that much used though
11-30-2008, 03:53 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 10
so i have put a list together of parts i think i will need if there is anything i missed or stuff i really dont need i would appreciate it if you would let me know, thanks for those brave enough to get through the whole thing
ACC-140207 Ignition Coil, Replacement Style, Racing Coil, Canister, Oil-Filled, Black, 45,000 V, Ford, Duraspark, Each $45.95 Tomorrow
ARP-150-2503 Harmonic Balancer Bolt, Chromemoly, Black Oxide, Square Drive, Ford, Each $22.88 Tomorrow
ARP-254-1901 Oil Pan Studs, Black Oxide, Hex Nut, Ford, Small Block/Cleveland, Kit $42.95 Tomorrow
ARP-454-1504 Timing Cover and Aluminum Water Pump Bolts, Stainless Steel, Polished, Hex Head, Ford, Small Block, Kit $37.88 Tomorrow
ASP-025030 Bracket, Smog Pump Eliminator, Aluminum, Natural, Ford, Mustang, 5.0L, Kit $67.95 Tomorrow
ASP-520100 Crankshaft Pulley, Serpentine, 6-Groove, Steel, Nitride, Ford/Mercury, 5.0/5.8L, Each $45.88 Tomorrow
EDL-1725 Fuel Pump, Mechanical, Performer Series, Ford, 289/302/351W, Each $95.95 Tomorrow
FEL-TCS45449 Gaskets, Timing Cover, Cork/Rubber, Ford, Small Block, Kit $12.95 Tomorrow
FEL-TCS45449 Gaskets, Timing Cover, Cork/Rubber, Ford, Small Block, Kit $12.95 Tomorrow
FMS-M-12259-Y301 Spark Plug Wires, Spiral Wound, 9mm, Yellow, 45 Degree Boots, Ford/Lincoln/Mercury, 5.0/5.8L, V8, Set $41.95 Tomorrow
FMS-M-6316-M50 Harmonic Balancer, with Timing Pointer, External Balance, Nodular Iron, Black, Ford, 5.0L, Set $64.95 Tomorrow
FMS-M-6675-A50 Oil Pan, Stock, Pan, Pickup, Ford, 289/302, Steel, Kit $99.95 Tomorrow
FMS-M-8510-B351 Crankshaft Pulley, Spacer, Aluminum, Natural, Ford, 302/351W, 4-Bolt, Each $29.95 Tomorrow
GTR-49222 Belt Tensioner, Accu-Drive, Ford/Lincoln/Mercury, 4.2/5.0L, Each $70.69 Tomorrow
HAL-MU2TK K-Member, Steel, Black Powdercoated, Ford, Mustang, Each $247.95 Tomorrow
HOK-16862HKR Exhaust System, Super Competition, Cat-Back, Aluminized Steel, H-Pipe, Ford/Mercury, Mustang/Capri, 5.0L, Kit $299.95 12-24
MCH-2011 Crankshaft Pulley, Serpentine, Aluminum, Clear Powdercoated, Ford/Mercury, 5.0L, Each $61.88 Tomorrow
MRG-6087 Oil Pan Bolts, Zinc Plated Steel, Hex Head, Ford/AMC, Small Block/V8, Kit $9.95 Tomorrow
MRG-6683 Oil Pan Gasket, 1-Piece, Rubber/Steel Core, Ford, 221/255/260/289/302, Each $29.95 Tomorrow
PRO-66187 Oil Pan, Steel, Chrome Plated, Ford, Small Block, 289/302, Each
SES-5-60-04-201 Timing Cover, 1-Piece, Aluminum, Natural, Ford, Small Block, Each $118.95 Monday
SMP-PS60 Oil Pressure Sender/Switch, OEM Replacement, AMC/Ford/Jeep/Lincoln/Mercury/Pantera, Each $27.95 Monday
SMP-TS58 Temperature Sender/Switch, OEM Replacement, Ford/Lincoln/Mazda/Mercury, Each $12.95 Monday
SUM-700451 Bellhousing, C-4, Ford, Pan Filled, 6.250 in. Bellhousing Depth, 289/302/351C, Each
ACC-140207 Ignition Coil, Replacement Style, Racing Coil, Canister, Oil-Filled, Black, 45,000 V, Ford, Duraspark, Each $45.95 Tomorrow
ARP-150-2503 Harmonic Balancer Bolt, Chromemoly, Black Oxide, Square Drive, Ford, Each $22.88 Tomorrow
ARP-254-1901 Oil Pan Studs, Black Oxide, Hex Nut, Ford, Small Block/Cleveland, Kit $42.95 Tomorrow
ARP-454-1504 Timing Cover and Aluminum Water Pump Bolts, Stainless Steel, Polished, Hex Head, Ford, Small Block, Kit $37.88 Tomorrow
ASP-025030 Bracket, Smog Pump Eliminator, Aluminum, Natural, Ford, Mustang, 5.0L, Kit $67.95 Tomorrow
ASP-520100 Crankshaft Pulley, Serpentine, 6-Groove, Steel, Nitride, Ford/Mercury, 5.0/5.8L, Each $45.88 Tomorrow
EDL-1725 Fuel Pump, Mechanical, Performer Series, Ford, 289/302/351W, Each $95.95 Tomorrow
FEL-TCS45449 Gaskets, Timing Cover, Cork/Rubber, Ford, Small Block, Kit $12.95 Tomorrow
FEL-TCS45449 Gaskets, Timing Cover, Cork/Rubber, Ford, Small Block, Kit $12.95 Tomorrow
FMS-M-12259-Y301 Spark Plug Wires, Spiral Wound, 9mm, Yellow, 45 Degree Boots, Ford/Lincoln/Mercury, 5.0/5.8L, V8, Set $41.95 Tomorrow
FMS-M-6316-M50 Harmonic Balancer, with Timing Pointer, External Balance, Nodular Iron, Black, Ford, 5.0L, Set $64.95 Tomorrow
FMS-M-6675-A50 Oil Pan, Stock, Pan, Pickup, Ford, 289/302, Steel, Kit $99.95 Tomorrow
FMS-M-8510-B351 Crankshaft Pulley, Spacer, Aluminum, Natural, Ford, 302/351W, 4-Bolt, Each $29.95 Tomorrow
GTR-49222 Belt Tensioner, Accu-Drive, Ford/Lincoln/Mercury, 4.2/5.0L, Each $70.69 Tomorrow
HAL-MU2TK K-Member, Steel, Black Powdercoated, Ford, Mustang, Each $247.95 Tomorrow
HOK-16862HKR Exhaust System, Super Competition, Cat-Back, Aluminized Steel, H-Pipe, Ford/Mercury, Mustang/Capri, 5.0L, Kit $299.95 12-24
MCH-2011 Crankshaft Pulley, Serpentine, Aluminum, Clear Powdercoated, Ford/Mercury, 5.0L, Each $61.88 Tomorrow
MRG-6087 Oil Pan Bolts, Zinc Plated Steel, Hex Head, Ford/AMC, Small Block/V8, Kit $9.95 Tomorrow
MRG-6683 Oil Pan Gasket, 1-Piece, Rubber/Steel Core, Ford, 221/255/260/289/302, Each $29.95 Tomorrow
PRO-66187 Oil Pan, Steel, Chrome Plated, Ford, Small Block, 289/302, Each
SES-5-60-04-201 Timing Cover, 1-Piece, Aluminum, Natural, Ford, Small Block, Each $118.95 Monday
SMP-PS60 Oil Pressure Sender/Switch, OEM Replacement, AMC/Ford/Jeep/Lincoln/Mercury/Pantera, Each $27.95 Monday
SMP-TS58 Temperature Sender/Switch, OEM Replacement, Ford/Lincoln/Mazda/Mercury, Each $12.95 Monday
SUM-700451 Bellhousing, C-4, Ford, Pan Filled, 6.250 in. Bellhousing Depth, 289/302/351C, Each
Last edited by Conrad_88; 12-04-2008 at 05:53 PM.
12-05-2008, 05:48 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 10
so i took the advice and i found a transmission used and picked it up for 50 bucks, pretty good deal from what i hear. the guy i picked it up from is a true mustang fan, he had a 72 mach 1 with a 351 boss motor, a shelby gt-h in his garage, and a 95 5.0 for his daily driver. lol someday i hope to have at least one car as nice as any of his.
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