On my 98, the PO busted a hard line, and the compressor went out and the A/C hasn't worked in a long while. So if I change the line, replace the compressor and clutch, how much do you guys think to charge the system up and get the A/C working? Or do you think I need more parts? Thanks for any help!

 

Pardon my lack of acronyms, but whats a PO?

And how do you know the compressor went out? If the compressor simply wont kick on, thats because the refrigerant leaked out, our cars have pressure switches that prevent the compressor from kicking on when there is low pressure. If you know the leak is in one of the lines, then replace said line, and inspect/replace the orifice. If it checks out, then get it recharged and test it out.

 

PO = prior owner (thought that was standard abbreviation)

thanks for the info on the compressor, PO said it, but he probably didn't know about the low pressure switch, like I didn't. yes, I see the hole in the line that goes from the firewall to the condenser (that's the radiator type thing, right?)

sorry, what do you mean inspect the orifice?

thanks for your feedback

 

It is where the auto body shop is going to hook up the AC machine. They will have caps on them. This is a common place for a leak to occur. Also, when you get it serviced, make sure they put dye into the line. That way, if there is another leak they will be able to see it with no problem.

 

thanks for explaining that. where's the orifice on a 98 V6?

I read somewhere about replacing the "drier" when re-doing the A/C. is this something I have to worry about or does this not apply to Mustangs?

thanks all for all the tremendous help so far. it really helps me get a handle on this repair and maybe even save some money.

 

Well here at my work (Ford) if we have a car with a grenaded compressor, we recommend replacing the dryer and condenser because of possible debris. ITs expensive, but it eliminates any future problems that might occur. Hell, even under warranty if a compressor goes they call for replacing hard lines and a few other things.

And actually, the orifice is the little in-line filter thats located in the condenser to evaporator hard line.. The make a kit for our cars to replace this, but it is a total PIA to do to be honest..

The cheapest way to go about this is to replace the leaking component, get it filled back up and checked for leaks, then see if the compressor will cycle.

 

WhiteFoxGT, thanks for that info. Can you tell me about how much to fill and test the A/C? Just preparing myself for possible sticker shock. So if it still leaks, they will have to fix or let me fix, and then do another fill and test again, right?

 

Well you dont technically have to charge the system to check for leaks. But most places will charge you to "fill and leak test"

The machine basically puts the system under a vacuum, then you check the low side pressure and it should be like -25in vacuum, and if it holds it, then you arent leaking. As far as prices, Im not sure, every shop is different

 

thanks, I get it, that makes sense. no use wasting Freon when a vacuum test is as good as anything