....YES, dude. lol
Stock Rotors as well, with 91,000 on them.

 

and they dont squeek at all? I had semi metalic pads last time...i forget the maker...greenstuff or something like that?? i COUND NOT STAND that noice

i would rather put up with a little brake dust than have to put up with that noice again

 

Nope. No squeaking yet. Just pure stopping power.
I've had to SLAM on the brakes at 50 mph when some jackass cut me off, I had the windows down and didn't even hear a peep out of the brakes. I was surprised.

Yeah, metallic and semi-metallic pads are awful for squeaking. Ceramic is the new "big deal" when it comes to braking.

 

well you sold me...hahaha...im getting the hawk ceramic pads

now all i need is that tool and a good write up ...im sure i can find the tool at autozone or napa right?

 

Mustangcat are you sure you have ceramic hawk pads right now as we speak? Go outside and check. lol sorry I had to

 

Trust me. It's easy as cake.

Heres a mini write up I just whipped together for you, all you have to do is google "Brake pad changing." Since most disc brakes will be similar.

1. Break loose lug nuts on first wheel you want to change before jacking up the car.
2. Engage E-Brake, Jack up car.
3. Place jack stands if you have them, also caulk the rear wheels with rocks or something similar, Remove lug nuts, remove wheel.
4. Pop hood, remove "Brake Fluid" cap.
5. Remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper into place. I think they were 13mm, but don't quote me. You may need to brace the two nuts on the back of the brake caliper, othwerwise when you try to remove the nuts, they'll just spin and never remove.
6. Remove brake caliper and find somewhere to put it where it won't pull on the brake line(black hose.) Just behind the brake rotor worked for me.
7. Compress brake pistons(two O shaped rubber pushers on the inside of the brake caliper.) Using two medium size C-clamps worked great.
8. Remove old brake pads, they are held on by small metal clips.
9. Insert new brake pads.
10. Remove C-clamps that are holding the brake pistons down and quickly replace the brake caliper into it's original position on the brake rotor.
11. Re-install the two nuts that hold the brake caliper into place.
12. Have someone pump the brake pedal on the car 2-3 times using a good amount of force, while you look to make sure the pistons properly come into contact with the rotor/pads.
13. Re-set wheel, install lugs, and properly torque lugs.
14. After all pads are installed, re-cap "Brake Fluid" well under the hood, shut the hood.
15. After everythings all said and done, take your car out for a SLOW ride where theres nothing but you and the road, make sure the brakes are stopping properly, and your not stopping and pulling to the left/right which would indicate you didn't properly install a pad.

It's a good idea to check for rotor damage while you have the caliper off. Feel the disc; doe's it have any large ripples? Feel the back of the disc. Is there a lip at the top? Your disc should be perfectly smooth, ideally, but some things like ripples and lips happen over time. If these are 'bad' it may be a good time to rotate/replace parts.

It's a lot easier to do with a extra set of hands, so if you have a kid/girlfriend/wife/butler or something, that will make things a lot easier.

If you get lost, or are worried about something, you can always remove the other wheel and look at how things were installed on that side. If you need an example.

It took me about 45 min. to do it my first time. At the time I had minimal to moderate knowledge of these cars

...I was about to lose all hope for humanity, by the way

 

thanks for taking the time to type that out, i have done the fronts before, but never the rears, so im not familiar with twisting the piston on the caliper with that special tool, but it cant be that hard.

if i can do shock/struts/and springs then i can do this

(those springs were so ****ing hard)

 

I would add two steps to the above excellent write up:

1. Whenever you change brake pad type, you must resurface the rotors. During use, pad material is deposited onto the rotor. That improves stopping power. Sometimes differant materials don't match. You have to remove as much of the material as you can.

2. Breaking in the new pads is not difficult, but it's a critical step if you want the best performance. And, you do, since you're doing the work. Follow the instructions that come with the pads to the letter.