bdennis1470

I have a 2000 3.8 Mustang and have been having persisting brake issues. It started with the smell of brake pads and an extremely hot front driver wheel which resulted in a warped front driver's rotor. So about two weeks ago I replaced both the front rotors, while replacing them I noticed the driver pads were only at about 30% while the other three sets were at about 80%, I had just assumed it was a result of the warped router. As a result, I went ahead and replaced all the pads, since I had the rear brakes apart trying to figure out what caused the warping in the first place. When I had the rear apart, I noticed the brake brackets had seized to the calipers, so I pried them apart, cleaned/sanded the pins and hole, and re-lubed them and put it back together. Everything was (or at least seemed) great for about a week, then I noticed I smelt the brakes after driving, and felt the front driver wheel and it was abnormally hot again. I looked at the rotors and saw the front and rear passenger is not applying pressure, and the rear driver is applying little pressure.

So I bleed the brake system, there was some air, but the problem is persisting, still causing extreme heat to the front driver brakes.

I was going to go ahead and replace the three calipers that aren't working, but am hesitant because way back at the beginning when I was replacing all the pads, I depressed the brake when it was all apart and all the cylinders worked/extended.

So I'm left not knowing where to go next. Is it the brackets that froze again? If the bracket was froze would the caliper apply pressure to the inside (because I have only looked to see that there is no contact on the outside of the rotor)? Is it something to do with the proportioning valve?

Thanks

1ATony

When you did the brake job did you take the cap off of the brake reservoir before collapsing the calipers?

bdennis1470

No I didn't, should I have? It was late when I was doing it, and I didn't know the rear cylinders had to be screwed back in, so I was checking to see if they were stuck or not.

Just a reminder, the extreme heat to the one brake was there prior to the brake job.

Derf00

On a 9 year old car I would FLUSH the brake system completely to remove contaminants. If that does not resolve it, then, you may want to consider rebuilding or replacing the calipers that keep sticking. They could have a ton of corrision on them or there could be contamination in the brake line that is gumming up the pistons in them.

1ATony

When you colapse the caliper it will help to relieve pressure in the system. I'd try to bleed them again for the heck of it.

Also how are you bleeding them,with a tool or with a buddy inside the car pumping up the brakes and holding the pedal to the floor while you crack the bleeder?

If you have someone helping make sure that they hold the pedal to the floor until you close the bleeder,so that air dosen't get into the system that way.