Not on an older car its not. Cooler engines on the older style will yield HP, where as new ones are set to run in those perimeters for optimal performance.

P.S. I just sent him an email along with your post.

 

The problem with running 215 is that it's too close to the boiling point of the coolant. Coolant temperature on the dial only reads the temp at that point in the system. In the head around the exhaust valves coolant temperature is significantly higher. As the coolant boils here and forms vapor, the vapor sheilds the metal from the liquid coolant flowing by. The metal temperature spikes high enough to ignite the fuel mixture prematurely in the cylinder - detonation. Detonation kills horsepower and the engine.

Another problem associated with operating too close to the coolants boiling point is cavitation in the pump. The system is pressureized to raise the boiling point. The "draw" side of the coolant pump naturally has a lower pressure. This local lowering of the pressure also lowers the boiling point. If you're running hot, coolant will boil at the pump early causing cavitation, which reduces flow, which raises the coolant temp.

 

Success!!!!!! Just mounted an 18 inch crank fan, and the dual 12 inch pushers, I ran at 180 degrees all day long! And I don't even have a shroud!!!

One thing I am still getting that after run when shutting the car down, I thought this occured when the car was hot?

 

Cars become hotter when you turn the engine off. Radiator fan stops running, coolant flow isnt circulating thru the radiator, and it becomes around 10 degrees hotter.

 

damn! three fans? got a pic? i want to see what it looks like...