Need help installing remote starter
06-05-2012, 08:06 AM
#21
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 6,936
lol - this will no end well - I know that feeling and hope this doesn't end with a mustang in a lake - again..............
I have had them on my cars now for the last 10 yrs for the cold midwest winters and then for the hot phoenix summers later. a good remote start installed by a trained pro should last for years with out any glitches and the only time I messed with mine was when I upgraded alarms. Unfortunatly neither of these is the case in this scenario as bull dog alarms are about as cheap as you can go and pray to get some use/time out of it and even with someone with years of exp to help you online it just is not the same.
I have had them on my cars now for the last 10 yrs for the cold midwest winters and then for the hot phoenix summers later. a good remote start installed by a trained pro should last for years with out any glitches and the only time I messed with mine was when I upgraded alarms. Unfortunatly neither of these is the case in this scenario as bull dog alarms are about as cheap as you can go and pray to get some use/time out of it and even with someone with years of exp to help you online it just is not the same.
06-05-2012, 08:37 AM
#22
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 6,936
Yes, as in connected to "White - Neg out when running" as stated in the RS1200series manual.
That RS1200series from what I went over has no D2D port(rs232), so the only connection from the pkall to the RS is that one wire. The pkall will have to have the D2D cable cut, then blue wire put to constant 12v, black to ground, and the other 2 taped off or removed. The remaining RS1200series ignition, etc lines all have to be run separately in addition to the pkall/xpresskit's. The pkall is only acting as the bypass to let the RS function, that's all.
The above, by the way, turns the passive anti-theft system into a stealing candy from a baby system. Since that single line going to ground is all that is necessary to bypass it after programming the pkall without the D2D/RS232 line. Not that having it would make it that much harder, but it would add a couple of minor steps.
Although, I assume, depending on where specifcially in Nebraska you are, the likelyhood of someone taking advantage is slim to none, unless there are some seriously clever cows around.
06-05-2012, 05:33 PM
#23
So I got the remote starter and bypass all wired. As soon as I connected either 12v wires to the remote starter the remote starter and my parking lights start clicking. At the Bulldog website, it is stated that the remote starter is in safe mode.
Code:
IF YOUR REMOTE STARTER IS CLICKING AND/OR FLASHING THE PARKING LIGHTS AND IS NOT RESPONDING TO THE REMOTE, IT IS IN SAFE MODE AND NEEDS TO BE INITIALIZED BY DOING THE FOLLOWING: If you have a 4 button remote, you must ground the black/blue hood pin wire (raise hood if hood switch is installed). Apply 12volts to blue/black brake wire (press and hold brake pedal if wire is installed). Press and hold any button on your remote until clicking and flashing stops. Unit will now respond to the remote. Remove ground from hood pin wire and voltage from brake wire. If you have a 2 button remote, hold brake and press any button on the remote until clicking and flashing stops.
And as far as all the protests to me doing this, if anything starts acting up, I'll just rip it out. I might as well let it last as long as it will.
06-05-2012, 07:01 PM
#25
Remote starter has stopped clicking. I have tried to program the bypass but I only have one key. I just reinserted my original key because I thought it wouldn't know the difference. Apparently it does? Wouldn't it be identical? Also, when it says "until the dash board security light turns off," what light is it referring to?
06-05-2012, 08:00 PM
#26
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Gallifrey
Posts: 1,596
Remote starter has stopped clicking. I have tried to program the bypass but I only have one key. I just reinserted my original key because I thought it wouldn't know the difference. Apparently it does? Wouldn't it be identical? Also, when it says "until the dash board security light turns off," what light is it referring to?
2 working keys are necessary to program another, which is essentially what this is doing, programming the pkall to be a 3rd key. This is easily found on the this site with a search, but here you go, spoon feeding:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...pats-info.html
or
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=413
Last edited by wayne613; 06-06-2012 at 02:45 PM.
06-06-2012, 05:55 PM
#27
I got a second key from the dealer and have the bypass programmed but I am having a problem now. I'm guessing this will be the last problem as I am so close. I went ahead and made a video because it's easier to explain. I got cut off at the end. What I was saying was I think that I may have wired the parking lights wire wrong? I wired the way it said to but the wire for the brakes over there was wrong. Here's a link to the video: http://youtu.be/f-Rh6JaGHr8. It's still uploading right now but should be done. If it gives you an error, just wait a little bit.
06-06-2012, 06:25 PM
#28
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Gallifrey
Posts: 1,596
You either wired something wrong, or the PATS is NOT being bypassed. Did you view the dash cluster PATS indicator? Did you verify with the pkall instructions that it is programmed?
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=412&viewfile=Anti-Theft.pdf
If the cluster is coming on, you have the run/IGN position going, likely it is trying to start, but the bypass is not set up right.
The pkall/expresskit tells you in the instructions how to verify if it was programmed or not.
....and holy spaghetti factory batman!
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=412&viewfile=Anti-Theft.pdf
When the ignition switch is turned to the ON or
START position, the PCM initiates the key
interrogation sequence by sending a voltage signal
to the PATS transceiver. The transceiver then uses
its antenna to communicate with the transponder in
the PATS key. This process ‘‘reads’’ the PATS key
identification code and sends the key identification
code back to the PCM, which interprets it and
determines if it matches one of the stored key
codes. If it does match one of the stored key codes,
the PCM grounds the starter relay solenoid coil and
allows fuel injector operation. If it does not match
one of the stored key codes, or it is only a partial
key read or no key read, the PCM will not ground
the starter relay solenoid coil and will not allow fuel
injector operation. The anti-theft indicator in the
instrument cluster will flash (or may glow steadily)
and the PCM will store one or more DTCs.
START position, the PCM initiates the key
interrogation sequence by sending a voltage signal
to the PATS transceiver. The transceiver then uses
its antenna to communicate with the transponder in
the PATS key. This process ‘‘reads’’ the PATS key
identification code and sends the key identification
code back to the PCM, which interprets it and
determines if it matches one of the stored key
codes. If it does match one of the stored key codes,
the PCM grounds the starter relay solenoid coil and
allows fuel injector operation. If it does not match
one of the stored key codes, or it is only a partial
key read or no key read, the PCM will not ground
the starter relay solenoid coil and will not allow fuel
injector operation. The anti-theft indicator in the
instrument cluster will flash (or may glow steadily)
and the PCM will store one or more DTCs.
The pkall/expresskit tells you in the instructions how to verify if it was programmed or not.
....and holy spaghetti factory batman!
Last edited by wayne613; 06-06-2012 at 06:40 PM.
06-06-2012, 08:22 PM
#29
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 6,936
so first of all the wires being wrong color, wrong location or just not there is nothing new. Much like you have to measure twice and cut once on an alarm/remote start install you need to test EVERY wire you plan on hooking up too, to ensure it is the correct wire.
Looks like it is activating your ignition wires and now all we need to know is if it is hitting teh starter wire. Test that wire after pushing the start button(wait 3-5 secs and it should go to 12v for a few secs) and see what it reads.
To test if its the pats bypass, disconnect the module you have programmed, put the key in the ignition and then hit your button. If it is the module it should crank with the key in as long as your bypass module is not sending some other signal.
I can't tell you how I cringed at that mess of spaghetti...
Looks like it is activating your ignition wires and now all we need to know is if it is hitting teh starter wire. Test that wire after pushing the start button(wait 3-5 secs and it should go to 12v for a few secs) and see what it reads.
To test if its the pats bypass, disconnect the module you have programmed, put the key in the ignition and then hit your button. If it is the module it should crank with the key in as long as your bypass module is not sending some other signal.
I can't tell you how I cringed at that mess of spaghetti...
06-06-2012, 08:42 PM
#30
I'm going to test that when I get back home and let you know. Yes, the wires are horrendous. Most of them aren't being used and I will be cutting them when I am done. I didn't want to cut them until I'm done just to be sure