Hey guys, I recently purchased a 88 foxbody non running, got it running for about 30 min (by putting a new fuel pump on) then it died when it got to operating temp, it hasnt started since then. I have replaced the ect sensor and the tfi, then I did a full tune up plugs wires and new coil still not running then I checked the tps sensor replaced that got it to .99 the ignition switch assembly was loose at the connector so I replaced that still nothing. Then I looked into my computer It had two leaking capacitors, so I bought a new one, now it will start for a split second but dies instantly fuel pressure is 36 psi. Idk what else to check feel like I'm just throwing parts at it and I also went through the non running checklist and everything was good besides the tps sensor (which I replaced and is now good) so any tips or help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

 

New what? PCM, or capacitors? Sounds to me like probable no spark. Check for spark while cranking. Should be +12 V at the coil primary terminals both then and key in "RUN". Check fuel pump turns on for 2 seconds when key switched to RUN, continues running when key in START position. Check for fuel at Schrader valve. If no spark, check Crankshaft Position Sensor for correct operation. This a 5.0? If no spark, Distributor internal problem. New TFIs from China have been known to be NFG sometimes. Check ignition coil primary and secondary windings with Ohmmeter for resistance: Primary ~ 0.5 ohm, 1,000,000 + coil to ground. Secondary: 5,000 - 10,000 ohms. New coils from bad suppliers have been bad out of the box. Sometimes replacing parts with new is not infallible.

 

The pip sensor is most likely the culprit.It supplies the signal/pulse responsible for spark & injector pulse,so if its bad,spark & injector pulse will not be present during crank & run mode. Do this: pull the little black breather tube (that runs between the passenger valve cover and the small elbow on the throttle body) off the throttle body elbow,hold the throttle blade fully open by hand using the linkage under the throttle body,spray starting fluid or carb cleaner into the little elbow on the throttle body you removed the tube from,push the tube back onto the port then attempt a startup.If it starts and runs for a few seconds then dies,you've got a no fuel issue.In your case due to the things you've already replaced and your symptoms,check for injector pulse at one of the injector harness plugs.Use a noid light or insert a paperclip into one of the injector harness plug terminals (after you disconnect the plug from the injector) then attach the clip of a test light to the paperclip and probe the other harness plug terminal with the test light lead and get someone to attempt startup with the key & clutch pedal down or if you don't have an assistant,turn the key on,then use a screwdriver and hold it across both large posts on the starter solenoid mounted to the driver fender apron (make sure transmission is in park or neutral,or youll get ran over once you jump the posts) The noid or test light should flash repetitively during crank mode.If it does not,the pip sensor inside the distributor is defective.Sometimes a bad pip sensor will allow startup if you pull the spout plug first then attempt startup,but this is only the case when the pip sensor hasnt gone out completely and its still allowing injector pulse to occur.Once its completely gone out,the pip kills the spark & injector pulse,so the pip pulling trick above doesn't always work.So if you pull the spout plug and the engine starts,the pip is bad,but if it still doesn't start after you pull it,that doesn't mean the pip is good,its still bad if it fails the noid/test light test.The pip sensor is the same sensor Imp called the crank position sensor in post 2.Its also referred to as a hall effect sensor.Its best just to buy a new/reman distributor if the pip is bad since a press or something similar is needed to remove the distributor gear in order to replace the pip,which is a hassle,but you can replace just the pip if you'd rather.To me,its not worth it.If you can locate one,Rich Porter is the best aftermarket distributor out of the parts store/generic brand distributors. Alot of the aftermarket dizzys,including name brands like MSD,are hit or miss.You can also have your newly purchased tfi module checked while you're at the parts store.Make sure they run it 4 or 5 times to get it hot,which is usually when a bad tfi acts up.