tyypo..you need full syth. oil in that cold as climate..

I put a oil primper unit on my 67 car will not fire til I have atleast 15 psi of oil pressure...coarse it has a $20k in it..

 

I agree, i'm pretty good friends with a local performance shop owner. He builds and races just about anything on 4 wheels (although i have to add, all of his personal vehicles are FORD), and i've asked him about this issue and he has done tests on his personal cars that have high HP numbers, and after cutting open the filter after the test runs, he found that the Frams have blown apart inside...a few different times! He told me not to buy the regular Fram filters, that if i don't want to spend the money on a good, expensive brand like above, and have to use Fram, only use the Fram Tough Guard, he said it's better quality and it's the only Fram he tested that didn't blow apart inside. Hope this helps you guys out!

 

I hate Fram's valve design, plastic and rarely forms a good seal, letting the oil drain back instead of stay put for the next start up. I personally use Purolator 1 filters, freakin awsome. I figure that $6 for a filter and $15 for a jug of Mobil 1 is worth having a motor that works, but maybe that's just me.

 

Is it true that if you use synthetic oil it is realy bad for your engin to go to non-synthetic? <edited><editID>Ormist</editID><editDate>38017.8649768519</editDate></edited>

 

you can change anytime you want there will be no problem...shoot that make the syth. blend thats the 2 mixed..well sorta..

 

<FONT color=black size=3>Royal Purple user here....</FONT></P>


<FONT size=3>MEL</FONT></P>