Lucy2005

Thanks Chevy killer. I must have learned a few things from your previous posts. Thats just how I am learning to do it!

gotan05

All of your post have been EXTREMELY helpful. It'a a whole new ball game doing the 1/4 in a car as opposed to a bike. The reason I want to get line locks is I plan on DR's. And I haven't gotten the hang of powerbraking a manual. And I really don't want to have to replace my clutch just yet.

I am going to try and work on the suggestions of those more experienced and hopefully i will be in the low 13's in the near futre. Thanks to all.

spyder7724

i posted a parts list of the fittings needed to install the line locs. just do a search and it should come up from last week. i now have an auto but the line locs will also help with keeping the car stationary on line so it doesn't roll through the beams. doing all this stuff on the line without practice is going to get confusing so don't get too discouraged. the parking lot idea is a good thing. especially if your not used to doing burnouts and staging a car using line locs. i had the line locs on my roadster hooked into the transbrake and delaybox to keep the car from rolling/drifting too deep in the beams. that allows for more consistant reation times but will do nothing for e.t...... practice practice practice.

peonslayer

I would assume that you are launching too hard and engaging your traction control furiously and spinning with it off. With 4.10's it isn't going to take much to flat spin the tires. If you dump the clutch to a total tire spin, it's over. It is impossible to recover this without totally un-gasing, re-catching and going. This is what I have found with a totally stock car. For clutch dumping 2500-2750 RPMs is about the maximum before total spin. Launch at 3k and your tires will break to the point that you will spin the entire 1st gear. If you dump under 1.5k without slipping the clutch you will bog. Now with your 4.10s you will have to test this out. It is possible and wouldn't be surprising if you can't launch much over 2k RPMs without totally roasting 1st. Another technique besides dumping is to slip the clutch. But honestly it isn't worth it if it is a street car. Too much slip and you will smell the clutch and be wearing it's life.

My first time at the track I ran a 14.2 followed by a 15.2 and a 15.0. The 15.2 was spinning through 1st and the 15.0 was an off the line bog (plus i hit the rev limiter in 2nd cauz I knew it was a ****ty run). I got to run like 8 times that night and last three I pulled 14.1 13.9 and 13.8. I know I could do even better, but it takes lots of practice to learn to launch these things. I still practice my street launches which are even more complicated. At the track you can un-brake and hold RPM. On the street if your fighting a slight-hill you will roll forward and back. So you have to snap up the gas and dump the clutch after you come off the brake. I find on those launches if you wait till 2500 by the time you engage you are at 3k and you will roast em.

Also launch on the 3rd yellow light and other than that don't worry about reaction time too much. I found myself launching before I was ready sometimes. But in fact the reaction time has nothing to do with ET. It goes off when you actually start moving. Get your launches down first. Then time them. Just don't sit too long or you might draw a laugh. Once you get the launch down re-post and let me know what RPM seems to work for you. I am going to drop in 4.10's and I am kind of curious.

Conditions also make a difference. A car in 65 degree weather will run about .1 second slower at 95. Distance to sea level which affects atmospheric pressure and humidity can also make a big difference. I ran in 75 degree weather at 45% humidity at 400 feet above sea level.