Switch to Synthetic
06-25-2006, 09:20 PM
#21
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,881
RE: Switch to Synthetic
ORIGINAL: Black GT
I agree, it isn't.
The only way I could see someone driving that many miles on a new Mustang is if its their only vehicle.
ORIGINAL: bl1nkage
ok so I exagerated a bit, but still this is not the type of car that you buy and then run that many miles up on it that short amount of time.
ok so I exagerated a bit, but still this is not the type of car that you buy and then run that many miles up on it that short amount of time.
The only way I could see someone driving that many miles on a new Mustang is if its their only vehicle.
06-26-2006, 10:08 AM
#24
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 210
RE: Switch to Synthetic
Please define what is a "synthetic oil?"
Ford's 5W20 blend can be "semi synthetic" and "full synthetic." Looking closer, the labelled "semi-synthetic has a percentage (maybe 10 to 30%) by volumn of base-stock that has be "hydrocracked" - meaning regular ole oil from the ground has been put through an additional process to achieve a more stable "base-stock." The labelled full Ford synthetic seems to be an oil in which more of the base-stock is "hydrocracked." Both of these oils are considered Group III oils, do NOT have a "synthetic" base-stock, and can only be labelled as synthetic in the US (because the US has no standards on what is a synthetic oil and what is not).
Other oils such as Mobil 1, Amsoil and Redline do use a synthetic base stock called PAO. This stuff is "made" through a process that uses gas (methane and the like) to actually make a consistant oil molecule - much more stable at high temperatures and pressure compared to conventional oils (dino, hydrocracked, Group III). PAO-based oils are Group IV oils. These providers also mix in some esters (another man-made or synthetic base stock (Group V)).
And.... all of the additive packages, the real story behind a good oil, dino or synthetic, are all synthetic - e.g. man-made!!
So back to the original question - what is a synthetic??
And a bigger question - Does the engine know the difference during break-in to make any difference what-so-ever? The answer is a big no. Use the so called synthetic, and if you have doubts, wait till 5K to switch. I wait till 5K as I change it so frequently before this to flush out the manufacturing and break-in metals, that the extra cost of real synthetics at this point is a waste.
Ford's 5W20 blend can be "semi synthetic" and "full synthetic." Looking closer, the labelled "semi-synthetic has a percentage (maybe 10 to 30%) by volumn of base-stock that has be "hydrocracked" - meaning regular ole oil from the ground has been put through an additional process to achieve a more stable "base-stock." The labelled full Ford synthetic seems to be an oil in which more of the base-stock is "hydrocracked." Both of these oils are considered Group III oils, do NOT have a "synthetic" base-stock, and can only be labelled as synthetic in the US (because the US has no standards on what is a synthetic oil and what is not).
Other oils such as Mobil 1, Amsoil and Redline do use a synthetic base stock called PAO. This stuff is "made" through a process that uses gas (methane and the like) to actually make a consistant oil molecule - much more stable at high temperatures and pressure compared to conventional oils (dino, hydrocracked, Group III). PAO-based oils are Group IV oils. These providers also mix in some esters (another man-made or synthetic base stock (Group V)).
And.... all of the additive packages, the real story behind a good oil, dino or synthetic, are all synthetic - e.g. man-made!!
So back to the original question - what is a synthetic??
And a bigger question - Does the engine know the difference during break-in to make any difference what-so-ever? The answer is a big no. Use the so called synthetic, and if you have doubts, wait till 5K to switch. I wait till 5K as I change it so frequently before this to flush out the manufacturing and break-in metals, that the extra cost of real synthetics at this point is a waste.
06-27-2006, 01:23 PM
#25
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 325
RE: Switch to Synthetic
Agree...
ORIGINAL: Stooge
Please define what is a "synthetic oil?"
Ford's 5W20 blend can be "semi synthetic" and "full synthetic." Looking closer, the labelled "semi-synthetic has a percentage (maybe 10 to 30%) by volumn of base-stock that has be "hydrocracked" - meaning regular ole oil from the ground has been put through an additional process to achieve a more stable "base-stock." The labelled full Ford synthetic seems to be an oil in which more of the base-stock is "hydrocracked." Both of these oils are considered Group III oils, do NOT have a "synthetic" base-stock, and can only be labelled as synthetic in the US (because the US has no standards on what is a synthetic oil and what is not).
Other oils such as Mobil 1, Amsoil and Redline do use a synthetic base stock called PAO. This stuff is "made" through a process that uses gas (methane and the like) to actually make a consistant oil molecule - much more stable at high temperatures and pressure compared to conventional oils (dino, hydrocracked, Group III). PAO-based oils are Group IV oils. These providers also mix in some esters (another man-made or synthetic base stock (Group V)).
And.... all of the additive packages, the real story behind a good oil, dino or synthetic, are all synthetic - e.g. man-made!!
So back to the original question - what is a synthetic??
And a bigger question - Does the engine know the difference during break-in to make any difference what-so-ever? The answer is a big no. Use the so called synthetic, and if you have doubts, wait till 5K to switch. I wait till 5K as I change it so frequently before this to flush out the manufacturing and break-in metals, that the extra cost of real synthetics at this point is a waste.
Please define what is a "synthetic oil?"
Ford's 5W20 blend can be "semi synthetic" and "full synthetic." Looking closer, the labelled "semi-synthetic has a percentage (maybe 10 to 30%) by volumn of base-stock that has be "hydrocracked" - meaning regular ole oil from the ground has been put through an additional process to achieve a more stable "base-stock." The labelled full Ford synthetic seems to be an oil in which more of the base-stock is "hydrocracked." Both of these oils are considered Group III oils, do NOT have a "synthetic" base-stock, and can only be labelled as synthetic in the US (because the US has no standards on what is a synthetic oil and what is not).
Other oils such as Mobil 1, Amsoil and Redline do use a synthetic base stock called PAO. This stuff is "made" through a process that uses gas (methane and the like) to actually make a consistant oil molecule - much more stable at high temperatures and pressure compared to conventional oils (dino, hydrocracked, Group III). PAO-based oils are Group IV oils. These providers also mix in some esters (another man-made or synthetic base stock (Group V)).
And.... all of the additive packages, the real story behind a good oil, dino or synthetic, are all synthetic - e.g. man-made!!
So back to the original question - what is a synthetic??
And a bigger question - Does the engine know the difference during break-in to make any difference what-so-ever? The answer is a big no. Use the so called synthetic, and if you have doubts, wait till 5K to switch. I wait till 5K as I change it so frequently before this to flush out the manufacturing and break-in metals, that the extra cost of real synthetics at this point is a waste.
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