Should I get a Hurst or Steeda Tri-Ax?
#11
RE: Should I get a Hurst or Steeda Tri-Ax?
I personally recommend the tri-ax, the thing with the tri-ax is that it needs to be installed correctly and takes some minimal corrections to get it right. If you slam it in with no know how on how to do it offcourse it is gonna suck. It also takes time to break-in but in the long run it is really worth it.
Att. Andrew
Att. Andrew
#12
RE: Should I get a Hurst or Steeda Tri-Ax?
ORIGINAL: androdz
I personally recommend the tri-ax, the thing with the tri-ax is that it needs to be installed correctly and takes some minimal corrections to get it right. If you slam it in with no know how on how to do it offcourse it is gonna suck. It also takes time to break-in but in the long run it is really worth it.
Att. Andrew
I personally recommend the tri-ax, the thing with the tri-ax is that it needs to be installed correctly and takes some minimal corrections to get it right. If you slam it in with no know how on how to do it offcourse it is gonna suck. It also takes time to break-in but in the long run it is really worth it.
Att. Andrew
Hi androdz,
That's B.S. there is absolutely nothing you can do to install the shift mechanism incorrectly and there are no adjustments that can possibly affect the shifters action. The Tri-Ax's only adjustment is for the shift stops which are purely for marketing purposes because the TR3650 has internal shift stops on the rails built into the trans. and the correct way to adjust them is to set them one half turn beyond any contact with the shifter or remove the bolts completely.
Yes they do get better with use but even then are a PITA to use unless you are slamming gears as I mentioned. Everybody has an opinion and I will say that a broken in Tri-Ax on the strip is a fine tool but even a well broken in Tri-Ax is a real drag for a daily driver car.
HTH
#13
RE: Should I get a Hurst or Steeda Tri-Ax?
Might want to consider the Pro 5.0, I have a B&M and it satisfied me - much better than stock. Than I drove musiccityGT's car with the 5.0 and if I had it to do over, would choose this setup - it felt superior to my B&M. Just my 2 cents.
#14
RE: Should I get a Hurst or Steeda Tri-Ax?
ORIGINAL: zcat
Might want to consider the Pro 5.0, I have a B&M and it satisfied me - much better than stock. Than I drove musiccityGT's car with the 5.0 and if I had it to do over, would choose this setup - it felt superior to my B&M. Just my 2 cents.
Might want to consider the Pro 5.0, I have a B&M and it satisfied me - much better than stock. Than I drove musiccityGT's car with the 5.0 and if I had it to do over, would choose this setup - it felt superior to my B&M. Just my 2 cents.
#16
RE: Should I get a Hurst or Steeda Tri-Ax?
I went with the Hurst this time around having used them in other vehicles and it just looks and feels great. The shifter is much better then I expected especially reading some of these forums. I have no problems powershifting 1-2 and 2-3 and have yet to miss a gear with it yet.
On another note, I bought the Pro 5.0 for my '95 Cobra and it was a superb piece of gear.....you just can miss with one of them. The shifts snick into gear like a switchblade and the 2-3 shift guides right into place. The only downfall is an extra dose of whine that they transmit into the interior.
#18
RE: Should I get a Hurst or Steeda Tri-Ax?
The hurst looks like a reasonable setup to me. I havent taken the leap yet. If I read the 2007 ford racing catalog right. They now sell it as a kit that includes both sticks for the stock boot or the chrome version with the white **** in one box.
#19
RE: Should I get a Hurst or Steeda Tri-Ax?
I would agree with F1, 110%. I have tried all three. I personally like the Saleen Short Throw adapter block with Steeda Poly-bushings. Plus you save money and can spend it buying something else for your Stang. You're essentially getting the same results.. It reduced the throw on mine at around 27%. +/- 1%
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