Stock Internals?
03-15-2007, 07:51 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location:
Posts: 163
RE: Stock Internals?
ORIGINAL: forensicsteve
I am also at 10 lbs of boost and producing 480 rwhp.I have had it dynotuned twice to try and keep in one piece but no longer feel comfortable at this level. I am scheduled for another dynotune on the 23rd and will have the car rpm limited to 6000 rpm....that should helpMaybe I should add to my sig.....waiting to go boooooom. Anybody used DSS for engine build?
I am also at 10 lbs of boost and producing 480 rwhp.I have had it dynotuned twice to try and keep in one piece but no longer feel comfortable at this level. I am scheduled for another dynotune on the 23rd and will have the car rpm limited to 6000 rpm....that should helpMaybe I should add to my sig.....waiting to go boooooom. Anybody used DSS for engine build?
03-15-2007, 08:13 PM
#12
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: West TX
Posts: 64
RE: Stock Internals?
I also think it depends on what method you have of forced induction. I believe that turbos are easier on these engines and with a good tune you could run 500rwhp with a turbo for some time without an issue. I have my car tuned at 9#s and make just over 450rwhp and a hair under 500rwtq, I recently got a manual boost controller and turned the boost up to 11#s with a race gas mix. Superchargers just seem to be harder on these engines.
03-15-2007, 11:27 PM
#13
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 1,631
RE: Stock Internals?
man, weare seeing allot of 05' up windowed blocks. I personally tell my customers don't push it more than around 400-425 rwhp. Now before you guys start jumping on me, let me explain my opinion......First, yes there are people out there running constant 450+ rwhp with good luck. The thing with luck is just what it is.Now, tune does have a big part in it. Keep it somewhat conservative.....timing out of itand you may be ok??? A thing most people don't think about is fuel. You can get a bad tank of gas...this does happen. I willtell you when you have an engine close to the "ragged edge" tune/power and you hear it detonate...it is usually to late by then!The last thing is block replacement. You will pay a minimum of $950.00 just for the block. OK, Igave my opinions. OK, now go out make some power guys. Thats why we have these cars to begin with 
Casey
Casey
03-16-2007, 12:34 AM
#14
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location:
Posts: 60
RE: Stock Internals?
Ok, please forgive my ignorance... So, will the block sustain a lot more horsepower (over 500rwhp) with forged crank/piston/rods? Just wondering what I need to invest in before pushing the limits. The whole "windowed block" thing has me worried about adding horsepower.
03-16-2007, 04:56 AM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 4,197
RE: Stock Internals?
The block is far from the weakest link in the stock 3V engine (your block will stay just fine as long as no other broken parts go flying thru it[8D]). The stock cranks also seem to be holding up pretty well at high HP levels (from what I've seen so far anyway). The rods seem to be the culprit in most of the blown engines I've heard about.
Thing about going up with the HP (above 450rwhp) is to give your car all the safety nets you can. Starting with a SOLID tune. Get a good dynotune on your car by a reknown and respected shop that knows the S197 engine back to front. If you go with a canned tune.......go with a highly recommended and proven tuner company. If you haven't heard of anyone running so-n-so's tune..............forget 'em.
Next is fuel. Bigger injectors and a fuel pump upgrade are good starts. Also lowering your rev limiter is another good safety tip if you're worried about your stock internals. I know alot of ppl run boost-a-pumps and such......but something about those kinda scares me. Most of the guys I see running 450rwhp and higher seem to be going for either the GT500 fuel pumps or the GT supercar pumps.
Lastly, some smaller tips. Running a colder range sparkplug can be a good way to stave off detonation. Also make sure your s/c or turbo has sufficient intercooling efficiency. The stock intercoolant setup on a s/c or turbo might be good for lower boost, but start going up on the boost and you really need to look at better intercoolers and/or bigger intercoolant reservoirs.
I guess the safest thing you can do is stay lower in the HP range if you're unsure and can't afford to rebuild/replace your engine. You can get into the 12's easily with less than 310rwhp......so imagine what you can accomplish with a nice 400rwhp.
Outside of that......save up for a complete forged rotating assembly. Then worrying about all this ventilated block stuff becomes history.
Thing about going up with the HP (above 450rwhp) is to give your car all the safety nets you can. Starting with a SOLID tune. Get a good dynotune on your car by a reknown and respected shop that knows the S197 engine back to front. If you go with a canned tune.......go with a highly recommended and proven tuner company. If you haven't heard of anyone running so-n-so's tune..............forget 'em.
Next is fuel. Bigger injectors and a fuel pump upgrade are good starts. Also lowering your rev limiter is another good safety tip if you're worried about your stock internals. I know alot of ppl run boost-a-pumps and such......but something about those kinda scares me. Most of the guys I see running 450rwhp and higher seem to be going for either the GT500 fuel pumps or the GT supercar pumps.
Lastly, some smaller tips. Running a colder range sparkplug can be a good way to stave off detonation. Also make sure your s/c or turbo has sufficient intercooling efficiency. The stock intercoolant setup on a s/c or turbo might be good for lower boost, but start going up on the boost and you really need to look at better intercoolers and/or bigger intercoolant reservoirs.
I guess the safest thing you can do is stay lower in the HP range if you're unsure and can't afford to rebuild/replace your engine. You can get into the 12's easily with less than 310rwhp......so imagine what you can accomplish with a nice 400rwhp.
Outside of that......save up for a complete forged rotating assembly. Then worrying about all this ventilated block stuff becomes history.
03-16-2007, 08:41 AM
#16
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 110
RE: Stock Internals?
ORIGINAL: ThisBlood147
The block is far from the weakest link in the stock 3V engine (your block will stay just fine as long as no other broken parts go flying thru it[8D]). The stock cranks also seem to be holding up pretty well at high HP levels (from what I've seen so far anyway). The rods seem to be the culprit in most of the blown engines I've heard about.
Thing about going up with the HP (above 450rwhp) is to give your car all the safety nets you can. Starting with a SOLID tune. Get a good dynotune on your car by a reknown and respected shop that knows the S197 engine back to front. If you go with a canned tune.......go with a highly recommended and proven tuner company. If you haven't heard of anyone running so-n-so's tune..............forget 'em.
Next is fuel. Bigger injectors and a fuel pump upgrade are good starts. Also lowering your rev limiter is another good safety tip if you're worried about your stock internals. I know alot of ppl run boost-a-pumps and such......but something about those kinda scares me. Most of the guys I see running 450rwhp and higher seem to be going for either the GT500 fuel pumps or the GT supercar pumps.
Lastly, some smaller tips. Running a colder range sparkplug can be a good way to stave off detonation. Also make sure your s/c or turbo has sufficient intercooling efficiency. The stock intercoolant setup on a s/c or turbo might be good for lower boost, but start going up on the boost and you really need to look at better intercoolers and/or bigger intercoolant reservoirs.
I guess the safest thing you can do is stay lower in the HP range if you're unsure and can't afford to rebuild/replace your engine. You can get into the 12's easily with less than 310rwhp......so imagine what you can accomplish with a nice 400rwhp. Outside of that......save up for a complete forged rotating assembly. Then worrying about all this ventilated block stuff becomes history.
The block is far from the weakest link in the stock 3V engine (your block will stay just fine as long as no other broken parts go flying thru it[8D]). The stock cranks also seem to be holding up pretty well at high HP levels (from what I've seen so far anyway). The rods seem to be the culprit in most of the blown engines I've heard about.
Thing about going up with the HP (above 450rwhp) is to give your car all the safety nets you can. Starting with a SOLID tune. Get a good dynotune on your car by a reknown and respected shop that knows the S197 engine back to front. If you go with a canned tune.......go with a highly recommended and proven tuner company. If you haven't heard of anyone running so-n-so's tune..............forget 'em.
Next is fuel. Bigger injectors and a fuel pump upgrade are good starts. Also lowering your rev limiter is another good safety tip if you're worried about your stock internals. I know alot of ppl run boost-a-pumps and such......but something about those kinda scares me. Most of the guys I see running 450rwhp and higher seem to be going for either the GT500 fuel pumps or the GT supercar pumps.
Lastly, some smaller tips. Running a colder range sparkplug can be a good way to stave off detonation. Also make sure your s/c or turbo has sufficient intercooling efficiency. The stock intercoolant setup on a s/c or turbo might be good for lower boost, but start going up on the boost and you really need to look at better intercoolers and/or bigger intercoolant reservoirs.
I guess the safest thing you can do is stay lower in the HP range if you're unsure and can't afford to rebuild/replace your engine. You can get into the 12's easily with less than 310rwhp......so imagine what you can accomplish with a nice 400rwhp.
Outside of that......save up for a complete forged rotating assembly. Then worrying about all this ventilated block stuff becomes history.
03-16-2007, 12:46 PM
#17
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 125
RE: Stock Internals?
ORIGINAL: VaBeachMustang
Well said!
ORIGINAL: ThisBlood147
The block is far from the weakest link in the stock 3V engine (your block will stay just fine as long as no other broken parts go flying thru it[8D]). The stock cranks also seem to be holding up pretty well at high HP levels (from what I've seen so far anyway). The rods seem to be the culprit in most of the blown engines I've heard about.
Thing about going up with the HP (above 450rwhp) is to give your car all the safety nets you can. Starting with a SOLID tune. Get a good dynotune on your car by a reknown and respected shop that knows the S197 engine back to front. If you go with a canned tune.......go with a highly recommended and proven tuner company. If you haven't heard of anyone running so-n-so's tune..............forget 'em.
Next is fuel. Bigger injectors and a fuel pump upgrade are good starts. Also lowering your rev limiter is another good safety tip if you're worried about your stock internals. I know alot of ppl run boost-a-pumps and such......but something about those kinda scares me. Most of the guys I see running 450rwhp and higher seem to be going for either the GT500 fuel pumps or the GT supercar pumps.
Lastly, some smaller tips. Running a colder range sparkplug can be a good way to stave off detonation. Also make sure your s/c or turbo has sufficient intercooling efficiency. The stock intercoolant setup on a s/c or turbo might be good for lower boost, but start going up on the boost and you really need to look at better intercoolers and/or bigger intercoolant reservoirs.
I guess the safest thing you can do is stay lower in the HP range if you're unsure and can't afford to rebuild/replace your engine. You can get into the 12's easily with less than 310rwhp......so imagine what you can accomplish with a nice 400rwhp. Outside of that......save up for a complete forged rotating assembly. Then worrying about all this ventilated block stuff becomes history.
The block is far from the weakest link in the stock 3V engine (your block will stay just fine as long as no other broken parts go flying thru it[8D]). The stock cranks also seem to be holding up pretty well at high HP levels (from what I've seen so far anyway). The rods seem to be the culprit in most of the blown engines I've heard about.
Thing about going up with the HP (above 450rwhp) is to give your car all the safety nets you can. Starting with a SOLID tune. Get a good dynotune on your car by a reknown and respected shop that knows the S197 engine back to front. If you go with a canned tune.......go with a highly recommended and proven tuner company. If you haven't heard of anyone running so-n-so's tune..............forget 'em.
Next is fuel. Bigger injectors and a fuel pump upgrade are good starts. Also lowering your rev limiter is another good safety tip if you're worried about your stock internals. I know alot of ppl run boost-a-pumps and such......but something about those kinda scares me. Most of the guys I see running 450rwhp and higher seem to be going for either the GT500 fuel pumps or the GT supercar pumps.
Lastly, some smaller tips. Running a colder range sparkplug can be a good way to stave off detonation. Also make sure your s/c or turbo has sufficient intercooling efficiency. The stock intercoolant setup on a s/c or turbo might be good for lower boost, but start going up on the boost and you really need to look at better intercoolers and/or bigger intercoolant reservoirs.
I guess the safest thing you can do is stay lower in the HP range if you're unsure and can't afford to rebuild/replace your engine. You can get into the 12's easily with less than 310rwhp......so imagine what you can accomplish with a nice 400rwhp.
Outside of that......save up for a complete forged rotating assembly. Then worrying about all this ventilated block stuff becomes history.
If you are really looking at going all out...well just for reference my hew engine (not including heads/cams) cost around $5000. My ported heads and cams were $3000. It gets expensive lol. Good luck.
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