Does anyone know about how long it takes to put on a set of the Eibach Pro kit lowering springs? the shop that i'm thinking of having do it charges 70 bucks an hour. Just trying to get an idea of how much it will cost me. thanks

 

Mine took about 45 minutes for the springs, and another 30 or so for the alignment.

 

You can put the rears on by yourself pretty easily with just jack stands and have the shop do the fronts; that'll save you some bucks.

 

Hi Tay,

In a shop with a lift 1-1.5 hours is all it should take a carefulexperienced mechanic. But I have to warn you to go prepared with a fresh set of original Ford suppliednuts for the anti-roll bar links that bolt to thestruts.These are the cause of 90% of the problems peoplehave after installing springs or struts that their once quiet suspension now has developed klunking noises shortly after their suspension partinstallation. The nuts used on the anti-roll bar links are particularly prone to this problem and hundreds of people have found their new klunking to have been caused by these fasteners coming loose repeatedly after re-tightening over and over. Save yourselfsome frustration and come with a pair of new Ford sourced nuts for thefront anti-roll bar links. You won't regret it!

Virtuallyeverynut and bolt on the S197 suspension is designed to be replaced withnew partswhen removed. In the Ford shop manual for the S197all of the major and even minor suspension componenet disassembly instructions begin with the instructions to remove the bolt/nut and discard.You can usually get away with one reuse before theystart to cause problems usually they get loose and make the suspenion klunks or worsepotentially allow a suspension part to come loose though usually you get plenty of warning before thishappens. The other obvious sign of a problem is that the large bolts used to attach the LCA's and UCA will no longer allow you to achive factory specifications for torque, this is a dead giveaway that you MUST replace the fasteners as the nut and bolt has already failed! The reason is that the bolts or the nut threads have stretched andarestretched past their yieldpoint and are no longer safe to use. These bolts and nuts MUST be discarded and never reused because they have failed even though you may think they look O.K. externally!

HTH

Cheers!

 

I paid $200. Provided the springs myself. That's why I paid a little more. It should have been $175 when I bought them with them.
Still a pretty good deal (for me personally). Got the springs from lmperformance. I paid less then $450 for the springs and installation. -> satisfied.

 

Could a creaking a noise be attributed to this? I dont have any clunking after my suspension mods (re-using the old hardware)...however I do have a distinct creaking noise in the rearwhen backing out of my driveway or during slow elevation changes. I dont know if its the control arms or springs.

Sorry to get off topic. My mechanicinstalledmy Eibach Pro-Kitfor about 160.

 

Hi WhoME,

Short of mechanical interference or chaffing, a creaking noise is most commonlycaused bydry bushings oran incorrectlypositioned spring isolator. Visually inspect these areas at the source of the noise beforedisassembling your suspension.

Other common sources of creaking noisesin order ofprobability include;loose fastenersthat were not or could not achive corrrect factorytorque specsafter removal and re-installation but left in place anyway, fasteners that were nottorqued to specs at normal ride height which causes binding,fasteners that should have beendiscarded when disassembled but reused and have yielded and are no longer at factory specd torque.

I hope this helps you figure out the noises.

Cheers!