jaguarking11

Well from the browsing in these forums I have learned a few things.
First the rods are worthless in this thing risking the engine.

SO I plan on bulding up my engine (not now but in the next 3years) when I have gotten acustomed to the car more and I start making more money.

I have a few questions to ask however.

will the crank from an 03-04 cobra fit the engine?
Do they make aftermarket forged rods and pistons?
how is the valve train? does it need stregthening? (stronger valves?)

I am looking into bulding it up to handle two turbochargers from each cylinder bank.

I know the stock intake manifold is restrictive but some have had good luck porting it, along with a one barrel throttle body.

Will the transmission handle being pushed that hard? (will the t5 swap in from for racing and what could be a better alternative in the price range ~2k)

I am also looking for an independent rear end conversion. Is there a kit around for these cars? If none is available then I will fabricate my own with the ford explorer sport trac IR and a good mechanic, I am not looking at cutting the body either.

In the end I am looking to make around 500-600rwh with 93 octane.

Is this even possible?

Timmay!!!

What makes you say the stock intake manifold is restrictive? There are guys out there with 700-800rwhp running the stock manifold and it's working out for them without issue. Some areeven running the stock cams with ported heads.
As far as the tranny I wouldn't trust it much past 500rwtq. A lot of guys either start looking intobuiltAODsor viper-specT-56s. I don't think a T-5 would bolt up to the 4.6 although the V-6s run them. Your best bet for having a solid tranny for 2K is to have the stocker built up.
If your only looking for 600rwhp I think you'll be fine with a cobra rotating assembly. It will work but you may have to machine the block a little so the counter weights don't smack the block. A lot of the single turbo kits produce enough boost to get you to the 600rwhp mark.Powerhouse is one of themore popularturbokits I can think of right now.
I'm still waiting on some actual testing from IRS conversions before I'm sold on one. These cars already weigh a ton as it is. The FR500C's seem to do fine with the solid rear. What are your handling goals?

jaguarking11

My car will be a daily driven machine, the solid rear tends to want to get loose in stock form and I dont like the way it bites back in sharp turns. This car by far wont be a race car.

As for the stock intake not working properly, well its down to eficiency mostly. From what I have been seeing people who port the stock intake usualy end up running less turbo pressure per hp. It seems like most people seem to brute force air in rather than fines it in these engines, all I am saying is that the intake is not optimal. There is suposed to be an all alu version out that gains around 20hp in N/A format but that never materialised simply because no one will pay 1000bux for it. Also a ported intake will allow for better power at higher rpm, we all know these engines start chocking at around 5800 or so. I want a nice even pull to fuel cutt off of around 6500-6800. Better intake geometry should help in coming close to that, it should also reduce the need for wild cams. I prefer to keep stock cams and have the engine idle like a stock car.

Also the single butterfly tb seems to be the best option for forced induction, however I dont know what it will do to streetability.

As for running a single turbocharger, yes that is an option but dual smaller turbochargers will spin up quicker and provide a more even powerband.

I am actualy thinking about a couple of garret turbochargers with ceramic bearings and a whole oil cooling loop of their own independant of the engine.

thanks for the input

Timmay!!!

Try some poly/rod-end LCAs. Thatshould help prevent binding and maybe any snapoverstreer you may have. Honestly your the first person I've heard of to complain of this. I wish I had a little more oversteer.

When you talk about porting the intake are you meaning the heads? I've never heard of anyone porting the intake manifold. I forgot who made the alum manifold, but I know F.A.S.T, andC&L have been working on one forever now and even C&L says they may only show gains for people pushing serious HP, running ported heads. Same can be said for aftermarket T/B. I think that is more of a chocking hazard for themotor at higher boost levels. Other than that they even saystock manifoldcan support more airflowthan most people are running nowadays. When you've ported your heads to flow upward of 290 CFM then its time to look at manifolds.Best intake manifold replacement: Twin screw S/C

jaguarking11

Actualy I am talking about porting the intake manifold. The plastic one. Where the runners meet the heads there is some serious restriction. Gains can be had, making the level of boost needed lower for the same amount of hp, I want to finess 500-600 hp out of it with matching tourque, not use brute force. That insures that I can run with lower octane gass and maintain streetability.

most engine builders think that slaping on parts together is a way to build engines. When the whole unit has to be assessed and streamlined for the HP goal.

Timmay!!!

I thought thecharge motion plateswere the only real restriction.

jaguarking11

I see allot of brute force setups around and that compromises streetability and reliability. I dont want an engine I have to rebuild every 10k. If done properly I can run those hp figures and still have a 100+k mile capable car