Mcloed Twin Disc
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,491
From: New Orleans
RE: Mcloed Twin Disc
I'm officially advising people to steer clear of the SPEC II at this point. The only reason it remains in my sig is so that people can ask me about it if they feel the need to (as with all my mods). I meticulously installed the clutch myself, and had the flywheel resurfaced by awell respected machine shop. Clutch chatter was initially horendous. I will admit that it got much better after a few hundred miles, but it has not improved at all since the break in period. I still have light chatter at low RPMs in 4th gear. I HATE chatter. It is very faint (if the window is rolled down, the noise from the wind drowns it out), but I don't like noies that don't belong in my car.
Spec was tons of help, here's what they told me:
After install: Don't worry, the chatter will go away after about 500 miles (break in).
After break in: Don't worry, for some people it takes as much as 1,000 miles.
After 1,000 miles: It's a performance clutch. They make some noise.
If they had just said that from the beginning (before I bought it), I'd be sitting above a mcleod twin disc and happy.
Spec was tons of help, here's what they told me:
After install: Don't worry, the chatter will go away after about 500 miles (break in).
After break in: Don't worry, for some people it takes as much as 1,000 miles.
After 1,000 miles: It's a performance clutch. They make some noise.
If they had just said that from the beginning (before I bought it), I'd be sitting above a mcleod twin disc and happy.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 109
From:
RE: Mcloed Twin Disc
I have the Mcleod RST. I must say it is VERY nice. I was literally shocked at the pedal pressure!. its lighter than stock!!!. i put about 400 mi. on the car for the break in period and did a re dyno with my smaller vortech pulley, custom tune etc. and it held great. 463 at the tire 3rd pull. The nice thing also is you can use your stock flywheel, OR any aftermarket one. Very trick as it has a ring that will adapt to any flywheel pattern. They also have a new Super Street pro clutch kit that will handle 500HP and is very reasonably priced. if you don't need all the holding power of the RST, that may be the way to go. I HIGHLY recommend it!!! I believe the Mustang guys at Galpin Auto Sports are running the Mcleod stuff exclusively now!
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,914
From: CA
RE: Mcloed Twin Disc
Hey Moose,
No I have trouble with every gear under WOT conditions and trying to shift quickly, not speed shift, I let off the gas like I should. I is even difficult to get into first, its almost like the syncro's in the tranny are starting to go out, doesn't grind, just does not go into gear easily. As for what I have replaced, I have had everything in between the clutch and input shaft replaced, and I mean every little piece. I am going to take it by the shop to have them check again to make sure that there is nothing bent or broke in the shifter and linkage. To give you another example of why I think it is the clutch not disengaging completely.
Last night after putting the street tires back on (car sat all day), I backed out of the driveway (went into gear OK pedal felt good), pulled forward, then put the car into reverse again to back down the street little, with the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor the car started to back up on its own, and I don't mean that little roll when first put the car into gear, I mean actually moving a couple of mph, I would have to hold the brake down to keep it from moving. It has also done the samething in first. And I even have the shim installed that spec's doesn't tell you about that should help with the clutch disengagement.
No I have trouble with every gear under WOT conditions and trying to shift quickly, not speed shift, I let off the gas like I should. I is even difficult to get into first, its almost like the syncro's in the tranny are starting to go out, doesn't grind, just does not go into gear easily. As for what I have replaced, I have had everything in between the clutch and input shaft replaced, and I mean every little piece. I am going to take it by the shop to have them check again to make sure that there is nothing bent or broke in the shifter and linkage. To give you another example of why I think it is the clutch not disengaging completely.
Last night after putting the street tires back on (car sat all day), I backed out of the driveway (went into gear OK pedal felt good), pulled forward, then put the car into reverse again to back down the street little, with the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor the car started to back up on its own, and I don't mean that little roll when first put the car into gear, I mean actually moving a couple of mph, I would have to hold the brake down to keep it from moving. It has also done the samething in first. And I even have the shim installed that spec's doesn't tell you about that should help with the clutch disengagement.
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,276
From: Orlando, FL
RE: Mcloed Twin Disc
ORIGINAL: subzero05
I have the Mcleod RST. I must say it is VERY nice. I was literally shocked at the pedal pressure!. its lighter than stock!!!. i put about 400 mi. on the car for the break in period and did a re dyno with my smaller vortech pulley, custom tune etc. and it held great. 463 at the tire 3rd pull. The nice thing also is you can use your stock flywheel, OR any aftermarket one. Very trick as it has a ring that will adapt to any flywheel pattern. They also have a new Super Street pro clutch kit that will handle 500HP and is very reasonably priced. if you don't need all the holding power of the RST, that may be the way to go. I HIGHLY recommend it!!! I believe the Mustang guys at Galpin Auto Sports are running the Mcleod stuff exclusively now!
I have the Mcleod RST. I must say it is VERY nice. I was literally shocked at the pedal pressure!. its lighter than stock!!!. i put about 400 mi. on the car for the break in period and did a re dyno with my smaller vortech pulley, custom tune etc. and it held great. 463 at the tire 3rd pull. The nice thing also is you can use your stock flywheel, OR any aftermarket one. Very trick as it has a ring that will adapt to any flywheel pattern. They also have a new Super Street pro clutch kit that will handle 500HP and is very reasonably priced. if you don't need all the holding power of the RST, that may be the way to go. I HIGHLY recommend it!!! I believe the Mustang guys at Galpin Auto Sports are running the Mcleod stuff exclusively now!
Hammer - When it comes to the clutch I would over do it, especially if you even think of uping your power in the future. Hate to buy and install something and then in 1-2 years up your power and fry it again. If I thought I would be happy at the power level I am at I would buy something that was spec'd to hold about 100 more ft lbs of torque than what I had for the added safety factor.
After talking with mod addict I think I might have to switch to an auto way down the road to handle the power I want.
Off topic but it is my thread, have you seen the ST TB, and intake assembly. Put out 580rwhp at 16psi on the 2.3L whipple. WOW. Throw a 200 shot of nitrous on that thing I would think 10 flats - mid 9's would be easy. Drive home with the A/C on.
Back on Topic - Also I have not driven or heard a stang with a Mcloed Twin Disc on it, but I assume it will be a little noisey. It is inherent in the design, but I will deal with that for all the other pluses. I have heard it is near as bad as they used to be though.
STILL NEED A PART NUMBER PEOPLE!! NICHEPI, you dont have it on your reciept do you? I tried Mcloeds site but it is a little cryptic.
6th Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,883
From: Nicely done
RE: Mcloed Twin Disc
ORIGINAL: MustangGT0405
Hammer - When it comes to the clutch I would over do it,
especially if you even think of uping your power in the future.
yeah i agree 100%
Off topic but it is my thread, have you seen the ST TB, and intake assembly.
Put out 580rwhp at 16psi on the 2.3L whipple. WOW.
i'll check that out today, at work
STILL NEED A PART NUMBER PEOPLE!!
i don't have a part # yet, but i did learn something...
the RST stands for Red Street Twin
Hammer - When it comes to the clutch I would over do it,
especially if you even think of uping your power in the future.
yeah i agree 100%
Off topic but it is my thread, have you seen the ST TB, and intake assembly.
Put out 580rwhp at 16psi on the 2.3L whipple. WOW.
i'll check that out today, at work
STILL NEED A PART NUMBER PEOPLE!!
i don't have a part # yet, but i did learn something...
the RST stands for Red Street Twin
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,914
From: CA
RE: Mcloed Twin Disc
I spoke to Mcleod yesterday and they said there is sort of bearing kit available with that kit, it makes the hydralic clutch system bleedable also, is anyone using that kit along with the RST clutch?
6th Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,278
From: Gainesville, FL
RE: Mcloed Twin Disc
Well clearly your clutch is not disengaged if the car is moving. The question I have is it the clutch design or a small leak in the hydraulic system. It takes a tremendous amount of pressure to disengage the clutch so it wouldn't take much air in the system or a very big leak to cause a problem. I imagine you wouldn't even see a slow leak. If it's a clearance issue then it should get better with use
, if it's a hydraulic issue then it will only get worse.
Part of the reason I went with the stage 2 instead of the 2+ or 3 or 3+ is because I don't need that much clamping force. The more clamping force the harder it will be for the hydraulic slave cyinder to release that force.
I'm sure you've answered these question before, but did you try to bleed the clutch yourself using a vacuum pump? Have you noticed any lost brake fluid and I mean even the slightest drop?
, if it's a hydraulic issue then it will only get worse.Part of the reason I went with the stage 2 instead of the 2+ or 3 or 3+ is because I don't need that much clamping force. The more clamping force the harder it will be for the hydraulic slave cyinder to release that force.
I'm sure you've answered these question before, but did you try to bleed the clutch yourself using a vacuum pump? Have you noticed any lost brake fluid and I mean even the slightest drop?
ORIGINAL: sactown
Hey Moose,
No I have trouble with every gear under WOT conditions and trying to shift quickly, not speed shift, I let off the gas like I should. I is even difficult to get into first, its almost like the syncro's in the tranny are starting to go out, doesn't grind, just does not go into gear easily. As for what I have replaced, I have had everything in between the clutch and input shaft replaced, and I mean every little piece. I am going to take it by the shop to have them check again to make sure that there is nothing bent or broke in the shifter and linkage. To give you another example of why I think it is the clutch not disengaging completely.
Last night after putting the street tires back on (car sat all day), I backed out of the driveway (went into gear OK pedal felt good), pulled forward, then put the car into reverse again to back down the street little, with the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor the car started to back up on its own, and I don't mean that little roll when first put the car into gear, I mean actually moving a couple of mph, I would have to hold the brake down to keep it from moving. It has also done the samething in first. And I even have the shim installed that spec's doesn't tell you about that should help with the clutch disengagement.
Hey Moose,
No I have trouble with every gear under WOT conditions and trying to shift quickly, not speed shift, I let off the gas like I should. I is even difficult to get into first, its almost like the syncro's in the tranny are starting to go out, doesn't grind, just does not go into gear easily. As for what I have replaced, I have had everything in between the clutch and input shaft replaced, and I mean every little piece. I am going to take it by the shop to have them check again to make sure that there is nothing bent or broke in the shifter and linkage. To give you another example of why I think it is the clutch not disengaging completely.
Last night after putting the street tires back on (car sat all day), I backed out of the driveway (went into gear OK pedal felt good), pulled forward, then put the car into reverse again to back down the street little, with the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor the car started to back up on its own, and I don't mean that little roll when first put the car into gear, I mean actually moving a couple of mph, I would have to hold the brake down to keep it from moving. It has also done the samething in first. And I even have the shim installed that spec's doesn't tell you about that should help with the clutch disengagement.