I'm beating a dead horse, but why in the heck would the diablo tuner not work with the K&N? Unless I'm mistaken, if I had the stock air intake on the car, I could still buy the diablo tuner and give the car a tune. Seems like the tuner isn't dedicated to the Mac filter, but rather to a certain octane gas. At least from what I've read on their website anyway.

I'm not sure but I'm assuming the car will be running when the tune is performed. Wouldn't the re-tune be based on whatever intake was on the car at the time of the tune? So, if I've got the K&N on the car while performing the tune, wouldn't it optimise performance based on the K&N?

Man, I'm really starting to sound stupid now aren't I?

I guess, I'm just really wanting to try to make what I've got work to the best of it's ability. The only thing different about the original set up is the K&N, and it just seems strange to me to think the diablo tuner would be sold strictly for air intakes that require a tuner.

I hear of people all the time who just buy a tuner and that's all.

 

the tunes are specified for 2 things, the type of air filter on and the octane gas. of course there's other factors but those are the biggest besides transmission.

when you buy a tuner, you will be asked what air filter you have on your car if any and what octanes you want. the tuner the PO has could be optimized for the mac filter and a certain octane gas. you could have the wrong gas in the car right now but that should basically cause pinging.

honestly, here's what i would do. have ford reflash the pcm and put the stock airbox back on. get the tuner from the guy and take the aftermarket cai that they gave you. talk to either brenspeed, bamachips, or whoever to get new tunes and put them on your diablo. after that you should be just fine.

 

I understand the confusion. The K&N air filter is designed to work with stock software. it doesn't allow any additional air into the engine than the stock software can handle. the diablo is just the vehicle so to speak for the software to be put on the car. the diablo unit itself can work with any mods, it's the software that is loaded onto the diablo (and then your car) that matters. The software that is on the diablo right now is designed with parameters that acount for more air coming into the engine than the stock software (and the K&N) allow. this means the software on the diablo is telling the car to dump more fuel into the engine, but the matching amount of air is not being recieved, hence you are running rich.

to summarize:
K&N + stock software = good
stock airbox + stock software = good
K&N + diablo software = bad
K&N + new software = good

if you want to use the K&N, use the stock software (should be stored on the diablo). if you want a tune, and want to use the K&N, you need to contact one of the reputable tuners and have some software emailed to you for your diablo unit.

hope this clears things up [8D]

 

OK, the light finally came on guys. Thanks a million for walking me through that. Sorry, for the dumb questions. At least I didn't pretend to know what I was talking about.

Again, thanks for the help.

I'll download the stock tune back onto the car, and then I'll contact one of the folks referrence earlier and buy a performance tune that works with the K&N CAI.

 

hey man, we all start somewhere with our knowledge[8D]

may I recommend Brenspeed for your tune if you have a manual transmission? I am running their software and love it [8D]

 

I have a SCT Xcal 3 which is a similar competitor to the Diablo Predator so I cant tell you exactly what options are in the Predator.

Stock Tune with the K&N should run fine.You can return to stock tune with the Predator. Car will make more power than stock because it will run leaner (but not to lean) because of the slightly larger MAF Tube diameter of the K&N. However you will have less timing and the throttle response will be softer than it would be with the Predator Tune because the factory program has throttle rate limiting which limits how quickly the throttle responds. Also if you attempt to do a full throttle powershift the stock program will close the throttle during the shift and have a delay coming back to full throttle after the shift. Your rpm will also be limited to 6250 rpm and the factory 145 mph speed limiter will be in place. Most tuners reset the rpm limit to 6800 rpm as these cars have connecting rods that are very similar (if not the same) to normally aspirated Cobra Rods which have a 6800 rpm Engineering Rating. They also make within 5-10 rwhp of peak through 6400 rpm with a CAI/Tune.

The Predator Tune should have specific options for either different brands of Air Intakes or the Inside Diameter of the MAF.
For instance the MAF ID on my JLTII is 88mm (3.5"). If the Predator gives the option of "K&N" you should be fine. If it gives MAF ID in mm you will need to contact either K&N or Predator and find out what the ID for the K&N is. You might also PM AmericanSpeed as he runs the K&N.

You wont need to return to stock to load the programs on the Predator. Only if you get a new "Custom Tune" and come to think of it I dont think you even need to do it then because your programmer is already "married" to your car. I believe you would only have to return the car to stock if you were going to use a new programmer. That said returning the car to stock tune and confirming everything is functioning correctly before proceding cant hurt.

The checking the calibration/stategy code earlier was in case your car has been reflashed to a updated program during its life. The "Custom" tunes from BamaChips, Brenspeed or VMP Tuning are written for a specific calibration/stategy code.

PS these cars have Drive-By-Wire Throttles. After changing tunes always reset the throttle to help throttle response.
Turn on ignition, but dont start car. Wait for part of the warning lights on dash to go out. Smoothly roll form 0% to 100% throttle.
Hold for 1-3 seconds. Smoothly roll from 100% back to 0% throttle. Wait for a few seconds and then turn off ignition. Wait a few seconds before starting the car. If it took you should only have to move the throttle a fraction of an inch to get a slight rpm rise on the tach. If you dont do this many cars will have a 1/2" of dead pedal after you retune.