FredTT

Hiya,

So I just got my car back from the tuner. He says it's in "learning" mode and it will take a while to learn how to properly drive again, but I had a few questions.

My car will NOT idle with the A/C off. If I shut the A/C off, it goes all crazy...Take a look at this data chart. I turn off the A/C at marker 346.911



Strange ehh?

Also, whats a good idle AFR? I'm idling SUPER lean for a while when it's warming up. In fact, it's lean most of the time until I get into Boost. (3000+ RPM) Then it because a safe conservative tune.

Last problem I was having was after acceleration for a few seconds, I let off the gas and it becomes very rich...

Are these strange problems (i know the a/c one is) or am I noticing them because I just bought a wideband...

~Fred

hammeron

it is strange fredtt.....i'm curious as to
what is going on...

my only guess is that it's something with
the alternator regulator circuit, but really
i have no idea

onederful100

idle A/F should be around 14.7
WOT A/F 11.5-12.0
it shouldnt have to learn anything it should work fine right after the tune.

what are your A/F readings now?
i had similar problems w/ my A/F readings, but turned out i just needed to recalibrate the gauge.

brad281

My car felt and ran great right after I loaded my intake/tune and went straight to work. Amazed how the auto trans felt right away.

Hito

If it is not calibrated, the idle learning will take some time to correct itself. If your setup is wild'y different than stock, and your shop did not work on idle airflow perameters you idle might hunt a little. The stock calibration for idle airflow would take care of most cases, so I would be more worried about an intake leak causing you idle flucuations. Make sure all you vacuum lines are connected and tight. Check you stabilized idle fuel trims as well with the logger. That will help you find a leak. If the idle does not smooth out after a day, then you definitely have a leak, or your shop messed with something they didn't quite understand.