PonyXpressGT

I have been recently trying to lower my vehicle and having some trouble. I took it to our local specialty aftermarket business in Columbus, OH that services all of the local dealers and all of my other mods (Roush spoiler, CAI, front chin spoiler, tint), but after receiving the Eibach sportline kit they refused to put it on saying they wont do them with aftermarket tires and wheels due to liability issues. I have the staggered 18x9 and 18x10 DD bullitts with 255/45/18 and 275/40/18. They are telling me the front tires will rub on the front and back of the inner fenders when turning and I wont be able to drive it home. I asked them to use the pro kit and they said I would also have to pay an enormous amount to have it taken back off to be able to get it home. After the car sat there a couple days while I looked for information, I went and picked it up to look into the issue. I am now thinking the Eibach pro kit, but want to guarantee it wont rub with my tire/wheel combo. If I am ok does anyone know of a shop and contact info in Columbus OH (Canal Winchester area) that does this? Thanks!!!

dschmink

You have almost the exact set up as me. I have 255/45 f and 275/40 r on 9.5 all around. I installed my own prokits and even at full lock have yet to rub. As for liability, when you lower with sportlines, you're looking at some SERIOUSLY ****ed up geometry under the car. That is a costly (supporting mods) kit to install. As for not being able to drive it home, thats a load of bull. It's seriosuly an easier install than you think and could do it yourself. I am a complete novice when it comes to mechanical **** but am learning quick doing all my own work. Only thing you really need is the right mm open ende wrenches, a torque wrench, an impact gun, blue loctite, and a spring compressor. don't even need an impact gun, just makes everything faster. I think your dealer is just being lazy. If you're deadset on the sportlines, you may need to look into putting an offset so it won't rub.

Here's a pic of my car with prokits.

And before:

PonyXpressGT

Yes dschmink the front would be about the exact setup, but I have a lil more lip that they were worried about. I am no longer deadset on the sportline and def thinking prokit due to I am not wanting to buy any additional parts to accomodate the sportlines drastic drop. I like the look of the prokit just fine. Hmm skeptical of doing the front myself. The back I am sure is cake to do.

dschmink

The front is simple enough. Just read tacobills walkthrough. The back was beyond easy. Just keep in mind once you lower you'll need to check your rear diff and the camber on your tires. Also, LCA relocation brackets are needed. In addition to lowering you're looking at an extra 350 max to have the geometry at least livable.

PonyXpressGT

Thanks for the info and I read the entire write up and all posts from Taco Bill. I forgot about those posts. I already called a friend to recruit help. It doesnt mention the LCA relocation and I was told by the Eibach tech rep that LCA relocation is not necessary. The guy tells me the springs were designed to be all that is needed. How true is this? What is checked on the rear diff? I would obviously like to just throw on some springs and get an alignment and call it done. Define 350 additional to make it liveable.... thats scary since I dont wanna spend much more than the 200 for springs. I don't plan to use the car much, as of right now it has 1700 miles and isnt driven much but I do play a lil when it is out.

Norm Peterson

LCA relocation for small amounts of drop is not necessary if you don"t drag race, or as long as you feel that you have enough traction on the street coming off a stop, or unless there"s too much axle steer for something like auto-X.

Can"t give you any numbers for how much drop might be necessary before you really had to do the LCA relo thing though. Still haven"t measured my car up for that stuff yet.


Norm

Simon1

You will need shocks/struts after a few months of drving. Your car will turno into a pogo stick if the OEM shocks/struts are left in there.

The shop you were talking to isignorantat best.

Do it yourself. If you can't rent or find a spring compressor or you are uncomfortable doing it, just take the front springs/shocks off the car and have another shop compress and change out your springs. They will charge you like $40 bucks.

Then go get it aligned. But not at the shop that is ignorant.

dschmink

From what I understand, if you lower, you need an Adj. panhard bar to recenter your axle. Also when you lower the car, you're lowering the body but not the axle therefore the angle on your LCA's changes. Here's an article explaining the finer details: http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA%20_adj.htm

Don't forget that you need to adjust your camber, and either a caster/camber plate or just camber bolts are needed. Camber bolts are a quick but sometimes unreliable fix as the bolts may be ble to walk themselves out under load. Camber plates are more expensive but will allow a greater degree of tuning for positive and negative wheel lean inside/out.

Another thing about lowering with any set of springs is that the dampers in the stock mustang aren't that good with the new ride height. I would highly suggest a new set of Tokico's to adjust your ride quality. I have Dspecs and prokits and it actually rides smoother than the stock.

Mikes_BLK_GT

Thats interesting since the frpp springs are rebranded eibach springs. I do believe thats what they put on the shelby's. I was actually looking at 275/40's all around or 255/45 front and 285/40 rear.